for an amplifier....lets just say the head-unit has no power antenna thignie or a amp on wore, what would be needed to get the amp to turn on?

 

apply 12v to the remote turn on lead on the amplifier

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">apply 12v to the remote turn on lead on the amplifier</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nsxxtreme is correct...but a more direct answer would be use the acc line to turn
the amp on. Not the most prettiest way but it will work. Ps what type of car/radio
are you attempting this with?

 

That's also my suggestion

 

ignition wire. you can tap the wire off the switched/accessory wire going into the deck.

or tap into a accessory outlet under the dash's fuse box.

 

You have 3 or 4 12V+ power free pins in your fusebox.
1- 12V+ constant
2- 12V+ 2nd ign., [power when ign. sw. is in run position]
3- 12V+ park lights, [power when park lights or head lights are on]
4- 12V+ acc., [power when ign. sw. is in the acc. and run position] you may or may not have this one

The free pins are 250 male spade connectors inset into the fuse box all in a row on most Honda/Acuras use a 250 fully insulated female spade connector, crimped to the remote wire, and plug it into the 2nd ign. or if you have, the acc. free pin.

No need to cut or "tap" into any wires in the car, thats what the free pins are for. 94


Modified by fcm at 8:33 AM 5/27/2005

 

fcm speaks the truth!

 

they also have those "new" high to low converters to not only drop the signal, but also allow you to feed a +12 constant in, and it switchs it to a "remote turn on" signal when there's audio on the lines. More expensive than just running a line from the ACC behind the radio to your amp? Yes. A better option for the lazy installer who has speakers in the rear deck... if you're that lazy, then yes.

 

here is one of those parts that was brought up, the low voltage trigger that takes a speaker level and generates a 12volt turn on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No need to cut or "tap" into any wires in the car, thats what the free pins are for. </TD></TR></TABLE>

tap, tag, whatever.

obviously the oem deck doesn't have a outputs (or any free pins) except through the harness. typically in this application to get a signal from a speaker, you splice into it. rather than running an accessory wire from the fuse box, speaker level from the rear speaker to the amp input (where face it, it is the easiest location if you are doing a sub amp integration but ideally you'd want to get the signal off of the fronts so the fader doesn't affect it- front stage, rear fill) and creating unnecessary runs of wire, maybe tapping into wires is an option to consider.

if its an oem head and sub amp and you need to use a line level adaptor a good spot to mount it would be behind the deck so the rcas will be there for a future easy headunit upgrade. since are going to get a signal from your oem head you'll most likely end up tapping into or splicing somethingto get speaker level. so why not do it all in a centralized location?

if you don't want to splice anything at all, you might just want to get a male and female wiring harness and splice, tag, tap into that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

tap, tag, whatever.

obviously the oem deck doesn't have a outputs (or any free pins) except through the harness. typically in this application to get a signal from a speaker, you splice into it. rather than running an accessory wire from the fuse box, speaker level from the rear speaker to the amp input (where face it, it is the easiest location if you are doing a sub amp integration but ideally you'd want to get the signal off of the fronts so the fader doesn't affect it- front stage, rear fill) and creating unnecessary runs of wire, maybe tapping into wires is an option to consider.

if its an oem head and sub amp and you need to use a line level adaptor a good spot to mount it would be behind the deck so the rcas will be there for a future easy headunit upgrade. since are going to get a signal from your oem head you'll most likely end up tapping into or splicing somethingto get speaker level. so why not do it all in a centralized location?

if you don't want to splice anything at all, you might just want to get a male and female wiring harness and splice, tag, tap into that.</TD></TR></TABLE>If you read the post you would see I was talking about a switched 12V+ source, that Honda/Acura supply for your convenience, why, if it's there, would you " tap, tag, whatever" into the cars wiring, as for "unnecessary runs of wire" what unnecessary wire? I just told him how to get rid of 4ft of unnecessary wire, [from back of HU to kick panel where fuse box is and the wire track for running the trigger wire to the rear of the car]

Also you might want to read your own post.........

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
obviously the oem deck doesn't have a outputs (or any free pins) except through the harness. typically in this application to get a signal from a speaker, you splice into it. rather than running an accessory wire from the fuse box, </TD></TR></TABLE>
What? 94

 

(sigh)

if you reread the post i was talking about the same fusebox.

i also mentioned the alternative of getting wires from behind the radio which will require splicing that you are so against and claim there is no need to do.

is there 12v accessory/switched typically behind the radio? do you need to splice, tap, cut wires to get speaker level into the amp? both answers are yes.

i feel there is nothing wrong doing it this second away or either way. sorry if you disagree. i was just trying to help the original poster out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(sigh) if you reread the post i was talking about the same fusebox. </TD></TR></TABLE>What part of the post? The part that says..... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
typically in this application to get a signal from a speaker, you splice into it. rather than running an accessory wire from the fuse box</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm sorry maybe it's me, but what does the fuse box have to do with getting a speaker signal to the amp.
Yes I do disagree, I don't agree with anything that has to do with cutting into the OEM wires if you don't have to, there is always a way to do it without cutting wires, I have been installing for a long time, and the only time I have had to cut/cut into a wire is if the connection has to be opened, [installing relays or switchs] and I'm sorry you don't agree, but if someone was working on my car, I wouldn't want them to be cutting into any of the wiring in my car , maybe it's just me, maybe I'm just to picky.
I will agree that there is more then one way to do things, but I will continue to advise H/T members that ask, the best way I know of on how to do things, I told him the best way to do it, you told him another way, he will decide how he will do it.
If I see someone give advice that doesn't make sense to me I will say so, sorry if I hurt your feelings 94

 

 

ok guys (didnt check thread in a while, pc was dooin some downtime) but this isnt really for a car you cee, i want to run a car amp in my room, using a power supply. so since u guys suggested 12V into the REM lead, would a simple DC battery of any size work?

 

you should be able to connect the remote wire directly to your 12v power supply. or you can run a wire switched from the 12v= and the remote so you can conviently turn it on and off.