Here's what I know so far about the car I bought. It was a super clean CRX with a tastefully done interior, extremely clean exterior with no rust, and a full CRVTEC swap. I do not have the paperwork for the engine swap but I know the shop that did the swap (JPR Motorsports in La Habra, CA.). I call them and here's what they were able to tell me about the car.

B20B Block (they said the bottom end was stock)

knife edge crank that's been balanced

Arias pistons with a 12:1 compression ratio

They thought the car had an ITR head and intake manifold however, the distributor on my car is a TD-22U, which belongs to a B16a, so I'm not so sure on the ITR head stuff.

They used ARP head bolts but they said the rods are stock, no ARP rod bolts. This worries me because I have read that several people say the stock B20B rods aren't made to rev very high.

The car is currenly my weekend car, I haven't rev'd past 7800RPM. My question is, based on the current info is there anything I need to change with this motor? Should I be more cautious about keeping the revs down? Anyone had any experience as to how durable a CRVTEC swap like this is?

 

well i was gonna build this setup and found alot of info. with the crank balanced you should have no problem reving to 8500rpms. the rods will take it but make sure you dont misshift. if you could get some ARP rod bolts. the stock ones can rattle loose.(ive seen it) As for the dizzy. i believe that any vtec dizzy will work on any vtec head. and the b16 head is a type r head. just the type r head has better internals with a mild p&p.

just make sure you have really good tuning on that setup, thats what will deturmine your reliability.

also if you plan to keep this setup you might as well start saving up for sleeves. then you wont have to worry about anything.
hope this helps you a little.

and if any of this info is wrong someone please correct me. thanx

 

what do the head #'s say?
look for green paint around the dizzy area.

 

How hard is it to put in rod bolts (I know, that's a noob question, sorry). It seems like it would be a lot of work taking the engine down to the point where the rod bolts would accessible. If the B16 head is the same as the type R head do you think they just used a real ITR head with a B16 dizzy?

As for the head #s on the car I'll get those tonight and post them.

 

the rods need to be resized after a rod bolt upgrade; the rod end will ''egg'' when torqued to higher than stock specs.

 

My head is stamped as a PR3-3. I think this means its a B16 head right?