Taking my car to Gainsville International Raceway
Well, my Car Club has rented out the track for $2K (it's a road course, not a strip) and I am attending with my car. I was wondering if any of you have had any experience in racing your H22A powered vehicles on the track and if there are any precautionary measures that you guys have. Ex. Overheating, transmission failure etc. Sorry if I sound like a *****, but I have alot of money and time wrapped up in my car (Stock H22A Accord) and I want to be as safe as possible. I am pretty damn knowledgable when it comes to engine theory and thermodynamics, etc etc. However, I am not too knowledgable when it comes to pushing my car to the limits and what the dangers are of doing so...
I would appreciate it if any of you have any valuable input that you can share with me from your experiences and knowledge..
Thanks..
Here is a picture of what it looks like:
I would appreciate it if any of you have any valuable input that you can share with me from your experiences and knowledge..
Thanks..
Here is a picture of what it looks like:
Thats pretty badass looking. However, with a track with twisty's, I think the main thing you need to worry about is handling that accord. I have a buddy who has a 5th gen and its real sloppy so I hope you have an aftermarket suspension setup. You will certainly get used to your car quickly though after a few warm-up laps. The main thing to worry about with the h22 when revving higher is torque-steer around turns. Good luck and give us feedback when you finish!
I track my Prelude. I've been to Summit Point MANY times, VIR, and BeaveRun. The H22 makes the time on the track MUCH more fun. I've tracked my car when it had the H23. It just wasn't the same. The H22 is designed for track use. You will enjoy it a lot. You will get addicted too. I know I have.
Yes, I have an Eibach Pro-kit and KYB AGX's along with strut bars...It also has stock LSD as well...Tires are Toyo Proxes 4 225/45/17....I am looking forward to it...Believe it or not, the old 4 door handles extremely well (better than my buds s14a with an SR20 on stock suspension, wayy better)...
I just hope that nothing breaks as I am about 130 miles away from home up there...I'm gonna throw it on a rack here soon and make sure all the fasteners are torqued to factory specs...
I just hope that nothing breaks as I am about 130 miles away from home up there...I'm gonna throw it on a rack here soon and make sure all the fasteners are torqued to factory specs...
Don't worry, you will be fine. I tracked my stock Prelude on the stock 160K mile suspension. It was PERFECTLY fine.
Hey, no dissin 240SX's. I am building one for the track too.
Hey, no dissin 240SX's. I am building one for the track too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, no dissin 240SX's. I am building one for the track too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah bro, I aint.
Aside from the cheap and crude interiors and their funky styling they are excellent cars...Nissan IMO have the best powertain reliablity of any Japanese car (as long as it's made in Japan, american Nissan sucks)...
My buddy had an auto S13 with 240K miles on it and it never once gave him trouble, now the interior on the other hand basically disintegrated...
Nah bro, I aint.
Aside from the cheap and crude interiors and their funky styling they are excellent cars...Nissan IMO have the best powertain reliablity of any Japanese car (as long as it's made in Japan, american Nissan sucks)...My buddy had an auto S13 with 240K miles on it and it never once gave him trouble, now the interior on the other hand basically disintegrated...
1. Go with the intent of having fun
2. Bring extra fluids for you and the car (oil, coolant and Gatorade)
3. Bring an extra set of brake pads
4. Run the tires with a little more pressure than on the street (35psi or so)
5. Take everthing out of the car that is not bolted down/pack light and be prepared for rain
6. Go easy the first couple laps of each session to get you and the car warmed up/take a cool-down lap at the end of each session to cool the brakes, tranny and motor
7. Drive within YOUR limits (overdriving is slower, louder and harder on the car)
8. Driver with your eyes, not your mirrors (don't ignore the people behind you, just don't focus on them)
9. If your mind is wandering, get off the track and take a brake (get your focus back)
10. Always error in the way of safety. In a spin, both feet in. This will encourage a spin and will keep you from sliding sideways in the grass and possibly rolling the car.
11. Don't be affraid to sit a session out (I'm always tired after lunch and take a nap!)
12. Check your fluids between each session
13. Have a great time!
One more thing. Rev-match your downshifts and don't use your transmission to slow you down. Due to the weight of Preludes and Accords, they tend to eat up clutches if you use them so slow the car down. Remember, thats what brakes are for!
Good luck,
Brian.
2. Bring extra fluids for you and the car (oil, coolant and Gatorade)
3. Bring an extra set of brake pads
4. Run the tires with a little more pressure than on the street (35psi or so)
5. Take everthing out of the car that is not bolted down/pack light and be prepared for rain
6. Go easy the first couple laps of each session to get you and the car warmed up/take a cool-down lap at the end of each session to cool the brakes, tranny and motor
7. Drive within YOUR limits (overdriving is slower, louder and harder on the car)
8. Driver with your eyes, not your mirrors (don't ignore the people behind you, just don't focus on them)
9. If your mind is wandering, get off the track and take a brake (get your focus back)
10. Always error in the way of safety. In a spin, both feet in. This will encourage a spin and will keep you from sliding sideways in the grass and possibly rolling the car.
11. Don't be affraid to sit a session out (I'm always tired after lunch and take a nap!)
12. Check your fluids between each session
13. Have a great time!
One more thing. Rev-match your downshifts and don't use your transmission to slow you down. Due to the weight of Preludes and Accords, they tend to eat up clutches if you use them so slow the car down. Remember, thats what brakes are for!
Good luck,
Brian.
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Thanks man...Appreciate it...I am fairly good at rev matching and heel and toeing. There will only be 2-3 cars on the track at a time and I will be with cars that have comparable performance, so it shouldn't be a problem...But yea, an extra set of brake pads is a good idea..thanks..
It will be an all day event and we only have 20 cars, so I think i'm gonna be pretty damn worn out afterwards..heh
It will be an all day event and we only have 20 cars, so I think i'm gonna be pretty damn worn out afterwards..heh
Let me know what you think of that track. The layout, the staff and just the facilities overall. We may be looking to expand to the Southeast and have done research on Homestead, Moroso and of course, Sebring.
Have fun and be safe,
Brian.
Have fun and be safe,
Brian.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Bring extra fluids for you and the car (oil, coolant and Gatorade)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't forget brake fluid
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. Bring an extra set of brake pads
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a very good idea. The OEM organic pads are not that good for roadcourse. I burned through 3/16" of OEM brake pad material on my VTEC caliper/rotor conversion in one day (75 miles of trackwork). Look into come carbon/metallic or ceramic pads, kevlar suck when they get hot. I am currently running Autozone 'carbonmetalic' pads and they hold up pretty damn well IMO. $47 and a lifetime warranty too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. Run the tires with a little more pressure than on the street (35psi or so)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a bit too general. Tire compounds vary widely and it is easier to start at 40 PSI cold (drive *carefully* at first) and pay attention to how the car handles. If the tires are not gripping that well try going to 38psi. If it sticks better then try going to 36psi and work your way down until the grip starts going. Lower pressure will usually heat the tires up. tires operate in a certain heat range specific to that tire. If it gets too hot or too cold the grip will go. It is like tuning but with tire pressure.
Also do routine maintenance before you take your car out.
clean out all the change and soda cans and crap out of your car
check the timing belt slack
check your valve clearances
check your brake pads
clutch fluid, maybe bleed it if necessary, same with the brakes
check axle boots for rips or tears
Balance tires if necessary
check engine coolant level
bring a helmet (duh)
bring a tool box with tools related to simple maintenance for the track
bring a jack
bring gatorade/water for yourself
Pirate
2. Bring extra fluids for you and the car (oil, coolant and Gatorade)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't forget brake fluid
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. Bring an extra set of brake pads
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a very good idea. The OEM organic pads are not that good for roadcourse. I burned through 3/16" of OEM brake pad material on my VTEC caliper/rotor conversion in one day (75 miles of trackwork). Look into come carbon/metallic or ceramic pads, kevlar suck when they get hot. I am currently running Autozone 'carbonmetalic' pads and they hold up pretty damn well IMO. $47 and a lifetime warranty too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. Run the tires with a little more pressure than on the street (35psi or so)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a bit too general. Tire compounds vary widely and it is easier to start at 40 PSI cold (drive *carefully* at first) and pay attention to how the car handles. If the tires are not gripping that well try going to 38psi. If it sticks better then try going to 36psi and work your way down until the grip starts going. Lower pressure will usually heat the tires up. tires operate in a certain heat range specific to that tire. If it gets too hot or too cold the grip will go. It is like tuning but with tire pressure.
Also do routine maintenance before you take your car out.
clean out all the change and soda cans and crap out of your car
check the timing belt slack
check your valve clearances
check your brake pads
clutch fluid, maybe bleed it if necessary, same with the brakes
check axle boots for rips or tears
Balance tires if necessary
check engine coolant level
bring a helmet (duh)
bring a tool box with tools related to simple maintenance for the track
bring a jack
bring gatorade/water for yourself
Pirate
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steph_accord
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Nov 26, 2003 07:33 AM



