Some of you might have seen my other threads on the ridiculously difficult task of getting my car inspected here in New York State. I have been throwing a CEL and therefore cannot pass inspection in New York regardless of how shady the shop is because of the new "plug-in" system where they plug right into your ECU.

I just bought a new P73 and tried it out today. I drove about 8 miles to get to work and the CEL didnt come on... I was thrilled. When I get off work, when I start my car, the CEL comes on. I read the code again and its the same thing - Barometric Pressure Sensor. I feel like crying...

Is there any way to clip a wire or something to disable this sensor? If I run Hondata S200 could I disable it or something? There is very little information on this topic here so any help is appreciated. ESPECIALLY if you have an amazing hook-up that can get me a sticker

 

... im screwed... time to swap stickers

 

S200 disables the diagnostics port becasue OBD1 dosen't have one so that won't work, thats weird that your getting that code

 

I can tell you, I have had that code, and I figured out how to diagnose it.

Your ECU has two pressure sensors, the MAP sensor and an internal one. When you're at WOT, especially at low RPM, it will check to see if the two pressures match. At low RPM your MAP sensor should read zero bar.

If you have a VAFC or a E-Manage, it would change the MAP voltage. For example, I had a turbo with E-Manage, and if I would floor it in 4th gear at 1500/2000 RPM, it would throw that code because the MAP voltage that the ECU saw (to compensate for 310CC injectors) would **** off the ECU.

If you don't have anything modifying the MAP sensor, you "could" have an issue with it. Especially if you've swapped ECU's already.

Good luck,
Chris

 

It also checks the barometric pressure before you even start the car. It should match then, too.

I fixed it with Emanage...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=945417

But never solved the low RPM/WOT issue.

 

Thanks. The thing is I have a stock ITR except for I/H/C/E which is why its very wierd that I'm having this problem. I think its due to wiring at this point but I'm not sure. Its very possible that the previous owner had hooked up a VAFC or something similar and never wired it up correctly.

Good Info right there though^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommymoose &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. The thing is I have a stock ITR except for I/H/C/E which is why its very wierd that I'm having this problem. I think its due to wiring at this point but I'm not sure. Its very possible that the previous owner had hooked up a VAFC or something similar and never wired it up correctly.

Good Info right there though^ </TD></TR></TABLE>

Got a voltmeter? Check the MAP when the car ignition is on, but not started. It should read 2.7 or 2.9-ish volts? *shrug*

 

Okay, thanks, I'll check that.

 

any other ideas?

 

Make a thread in the FI forum? Apologize for being N/A, but tell them your mom made you eat broccoli when you were a kid, and that's forced induction.

They should rename the FI forum to the "Check Engine" forum.

 

At an auto-x today my I lost power for a few seconds and had to restart my car... I think it was just fuel starvation (was running quite low fuel and my pump might be going anyway) but it made me check my CEL codes, which I usually don't check often because it's always on because of my cams. Anyway, I had the code 13 and I have an S-AFC... from what I gather in this thread, is it not really a problem? Is it something to worry about. Could it cause the car to die like that? Because if not and it was fuel starvation instead, the car runs fine other than that. Thanks Chris F for the info!