Last summer I rebuilt a B18b after slinging a rod through the block of my old LS motor on nitrous. This time I decided to go all motor! The engine was built and installed in the in my, which didnt make it to the dyno until 6 monthes laterwhere it laid down 170 WHP, and 135 WTQ. Now I am looking at ways to increase my horsepower and torque. I was searching for a B20 block but fell short so I paln to stay with the LS block for the time being.

Before going into my plans, here is a list of my current set up:

B18A Block/ B18B Head
-Crower 404 w/ JG Cam Gears
-Crower Valvesprings
-Ferrea SS Valves
-Cometic Head Gasket
-Skunk2 IM
-64mm TB
-Modified Iceman intake
-JDM ITR 4-1 header w/ 2.5" collector
-No Cat
-2.5" custom piping and exhaust
-P30 B16 Pistons
-Stock Rods
-GSR Tranny w/ LSD
-Exedy Flywheel
-Clutch Specialties 6-puck clutch
-SAFC2
-Chipped P75

Here is the thread about it.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1124823


Now after thinking and calculating and thinking some more, I have decide to get some headwork done. I thought sure there should be some power there. So I am planning a head mill of .025" to .030", a competition 3 angle Valve job, a port and poilsh(nothing extreme), and port the Skunk2 IM. I want to increase my power output for the time being and figured this is the best way. I was thinking of going with 1mm oversized intake valves, but decided it probably wasnt worth the money; maybe later on down the road.

Some suggestions that have been given to me were to weld the combustion chambers rather than mill, get a better exhaust manifold, and get a larger TB. Two of those suggestions were bolt ons, so I will make that decision after the machine work.


To let you see why I want to raise the compression more I will compare some factors for you. Currently I have P30 Pistons in my LS and Crower 62404 cams. My static compression is 11.1:1. Well since I am using a big cam the dynamic compression ratio is only 10.23:1. So without changing the pistons, milling I feel is my best option. I originaly wanted to go with CTR pistons but I have been told they have a bad design, and I really didnt want to put heavier pistons in my block. So in milling the head .025" to .030" I should be able to achieve a dynamic compression of 11:1.

After doing all this, I plan to use a set of H22 injectors I have laying around as well as a Walboro 255 lph fuel I still have from when I used to spray my old motor. My next tune will be done with either Crome or Uberdata, instead of a ECU chip and SAFC-II.

Now that you have read all of this crap, please feel free to comment and give me suggestions on my next steps. Maybe there is something I am forgetting.

 

i definetely think the headwork will give u the power u want. also, the injectors and a better tuning system with definetely get more potential out of ur motor.

 

I hope so.

I think the injectors will work out fine but I hope the 255 lph fuel pumpisnt overkill!

 

I don't know if this is out of your price range or not. But resleeving for more displacement would certainly help matters alot. A B20 is just SO much stronger than a B18A/B18B. Resleeving your motor to 84+mm would do wonders.

 

That is kind of out of my price range right now, but maybe down the road I could be able to sleeve an LS or B20 block to 86mm and run a 95mm crank with longer rods and a decked block to achieve a good rod stroke ratio. However right now I dont have $2000 to sink into a project like that.

So until then I am just going to stick to what is affordable and available.

For 2K I think I would rather sink it into my LS1 project that I plan to start later this year.

 

Any other suggestions, or comments?

 

BUMP!

 

Suggestions? is there anything else that i may be forgeting or should I look at a few other things?


As far as the port and polish goes, should I go for a competition street/strip port or a race port?

 

Thought i would chime in sense ive been following your project for awhile .Well i have a very similar set up as your runing in my Da.Im getiing the skunk2 intake manifold and other items to swith it over to obd1 and then im off to the dyno.I was wondering if you got a chance if you could tell me what your settings your running on your afc are if its not to much of a pain Thnaks and good luck

 

Headwork would do wonders, so will getting rid of the AFC. I could also have Rocket email you about a different cam grind if you would like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Headwork would do wonders, so will getting rid of the AFC. I could also have Rocket email you about a different cam grind if you would like.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Always open to more knowledge!

 

PM me with the email addy you want him to email you at.

 

PM's are down. Try this:

hybrid_vtec@sbcglobal.net

 

I think you got it under control. Port & Polish, Tunning, step up to bigger TB,and get a better header. I can't wait to see the new numbers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PM's are down. Try this:

hybrid_vtec@sbcglobal.net

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Coo, he will contact you as soon as he can. BTW, a better header should give you great gains across the board. I prefer RMF and SMSP.

 

Right now I think I will focus on the headwork and see what I can get from that, then I will go back to upgrading bolt-ons.

Should I look at a 68mm or 70mm TB?

As far as a header goes, I will have my head flow tested and then use the flow numbers to determine what size primaries I need for an exhaust manifold. I wonder if I should build my own custom header!

 

honestly do as much headwork as possible. the LS head is where it makes it's power. if you can have a good head porter install larger intake valves without loosing low valve lift flow then by all means do so. the trick with the non-vtec head it to get maximum intake flow since it has smaller intake ports/valves than the vtec head.

you can experiment with a slightly larger throttle body although i don't think it will make that much of a noticeable difference in peak power but a larger throttle body will always give you better throttle response.

as for your fuel setup. don't install a walbro pump. the stock pump can flow more than enough fuel to support a N/A LS engine with larger injectors. i had my n/a non-VTEC setup running below 10:1 air/fuel with the stock pump and larger injectors. trust me you don't need that much fuel.

everything else you have looks good. the only suggestion i have it have it tuned with the right ECU software and not a SAFC. there is always a little more power to be had with ECU tuning.

if you want to try and squeeze every small bit of power you can you might want to look into power steering and alternator underdrive pulleys. there always good for about 2-5hp. i don't know if the cost of a new set would be justified for the amount of power you may see so a good used set would be alright if you can find them for a decent price.

good luck
check on my n/a 2.0L non-VTEC dyno here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1062624

 

Thanx for the info.

Now the main thing is the head work which will be done by a pro, for maybe the exception of porting. Most ppl I talk to around here want an ***-load to port my LS head or do not want to touch it at all. I actually called Joe Alaniz and got a quote and believe it or not he actually quoted me far cheaper than 95% of the ppl I called! (Sounds wierd huh) I also talked to Dave hickman who said he would do it and gave me the lowest price so far but I have heard both good and bad about him! I also talked to a well known porter here in SD and he said he would do it on the side, but we havent discussed prices yet!

I am kind of leaning towards doing it myself! I have several LS heads laying around and have been practicing/experimenting on them. I do not want a HUGE PnP, but rather a street strip type deal! So I was thinking of Port matching everything(up to 1 inch in), do a little bowl work, and remove a little bit of material. You know just do something mild! Now the Valve job and mill and what not will be done by a professional. And for the IM, I have a friend that does these so he is willing to hook it up and help me out!

I know this sounds wierd, but I had the money to do everything, b/c me and the wife decided to not go on vacation, but now I have only enough to get the headwork (minus the port n polish) and get tuned; b/c the wife went on a shopping spree!

The ECU will be tuned with Crome or Uberdata this time around, instead of the SAFC.


I will borrow a TB from a friend at the time of dyno and we will compare them.

As far as underdrive pulley go, I do not have power steering or A/C anymore but I was thinking of a CTR pulley and an altenator pulley; however I may wait until I find a B20 block and balance the entire bottom end. After reading about all the theories of harmonic frequencies, I would rather play it safe than be sorry for 2-3 whp.

 

for non v-tec

 

bump. just wondering how its coming along. non-vtec

 

tranny(ats 4.9 final drive lsd) work new header...and new engine management(hondata).....

 

the fuel pump wont be overkill. just get a FPR to turn down the fuel pressure. i have a 255lph in my LS and its not overkill at all. my fuel pressure is at 50 psi with the vacuum off. just tune it with uber or crome and u will be good. i onyl put this pump in my car cuz i was run n N20, but im not anymore, but its not overkill for a NA motor. Do u need it? maybe not as the stock pump can handle the flow very well.