HOW TO: Pass OBD2 Inspection with an OBD1 Motor
I live in North Carolina, and here on obd2 cars (96 and up) the inspection is done through the serial connector to the computer. They no longer test your tailpipe emissions on obd2.
Anyways, i have a 96 prelude with a 94 jdm h22a in it run by a hondata s200/obd1 p72. I needed to have my inspection done, so i found an obd2 p14 thinking it would be ok to run my car, i just wouldnt have vtec, and my a/f would be a little messed up.
I used the obd2 h23 wiring harness when i put the h22 in, and made my own little extension harness to bring the CKP and TDC sensor wires up the jdm obd1 distributor and wired up the internal coil and the sensors.
I bought an o2 simulator, and made my own plug and play harness and plugged it in under the car and brought it up to around the underhood fuse box and just let it dangle down there. The sim works fine, got it on ebay for $15 (thebestmileliminators) or something like that was the seller, its just two wires with (i think) some resistors on it.
I plugged in the obd2 p14 and drove off, and everything was fine, no CEL. Then i got somewhere and shut the car off. I came back out and started it up and drove off, and about a minute down the road the CEL came on and then on the freeway it started blinking weirdly....
Both times it was codes 71, 72, 73, and 74
which are "Random misfire on cylinder 1, 2, 3, and 4", respectively
pretty random, the car didnt actually misfire as far as i could tell but it threw it anyways, i think it has something to do with the a/f ratio or maybe the timing....
Then i stopped, reset it, and drove off again, and got back up to freeway speed, about 70 mph, and after a few minutes it came back on.
So, i have figured out the quirks:
1) it will only be fine for the first time you start the car, as soon as you shut it off, and then start to drive again, it will throw a CEL for the misfire junk
2) dont drive it under high load or rpm higher than like 3k on the way to inspection
3) my ecu was "Ready" after only 9 miles and 20 minutes of driving on the way there
good luck my fellow obd2'ers
Modified by mgags7 at 3:30 PM 5/23/2005
<FONT SIZE="4">Do Not Borrow a Friends OBD2 ECU To Do This With</FONT>
why?
1) some ecus (I'm not sure if honda's are like this or not) have the VIN number inside the ecu and if the state computer reads two of the same vin numbers in for different cars, there is going to be trouble
2) you have the potential to ruin that ecu, I'm not sure that this was the reason that my friend's ecu crapped out afterwards, but it did, and I cannot be sure....when I say crapped out here goes: he has a 96 si, had a bad o2 sensor, one day I did a rushed *** job on replacing it and something came loose or was originally hooked up wrong, either way the CEL came back, and he left it like that for like two years, then he finally gets a ticket for no inspection, takes it to a shop to have the CEL fixed, and the shop tells him the ecu is bad bc it is throwing all kinds of random codes and they can't get it to stop....so who knows
Modified by bb4ever at 12:51 PM 10/24/2006
Anyways, i have a 96 prelude with a 94 jdm h22a in it run by a hondata s200/obd1 p72. I needed to have my inspection done, so i found an obd2 p14 thinking it would be ok to run my car, i just wouldnt have vtec, and my a/f would be a little messed up.
I used the obd2 h23 wiring harness when i put the h22 in, and made my own little extension harness to bring the CKP and TDC sensor wires up the jdm obd1 distributor and wired up the internal coil and the sensors.
I bought an o2 simulator, and made my own plug and play harness and plugged it in under the car and brought it up to around the underhood fuse box and just let it dangle down there. The sim works fine, got it on ebay for $15 (thebestmileliminators) or something like that was the seller, its just two wires with (i think) some resistors on it.
I plugged in the obd2 p14 and drove off, and everything was fine, no CEL. Then i got somewhere and shut the car off. I came back out and started it up and drove off, and about a minute down the road the CEL came on and then on the freeway it started blinking weirdly....
Both times it was codes 71, 72, 73, and 74
which are "Random misfire on cylinder 1, 2, 3, and 4", respectively
pretty random, the car didnt actually misfire as far as i could tell but it threw it anyways, i think it has something to do with the a/f ratio or maybe the timing....
Then i stopped, reset it, and drove off again, and got back up to freeway speed, about 70 mph, and after a few minutes it came back on.
So, i have figured out the quirks:
1) it will only be fine for the first time you start the car, as soon as you shut it off, and then start to drive again, it will throw a CEL for the misfire junk
2) dont drive it under high load or rpm higher than like 3k on the way to inspection
3) my ecu was "Ready" after only 9 miles and 20 minutes of driving on the way there
good luck my fellow obd2'ers
Modified by mgags7 at 3:30 PM 5/23/2005
<FONT SIZE="4">Do Not Borrow a Friends OBD2 ECU To Do This With</FONT>
why?
1) some ecus (I'm not sure if honda's are like this or not) have the VIN number inside the ecu and if the state computer reads two of the same vin numbers in for different cars, there is going to be trouble
2) you have the potential to ruin that ecu, I'm not sure that this was the reason that my friend's ecu crapped out afterwards, but it did, and I cannot be sure....when I say crapped out here goes: he has a 96 si, had a bad o2 sensor, one day I did a rushed *** job on replacing it and something came loose or was originally hooked up wrong, either way the CEL came back, and he left it like that for like two years, then he finally gets a ticket for no inspection, takes it to a shop to have the CEL fixed, and the shop tells him the ecu is bad bc it is throwing all kinds of random codes and they can't get it to stop....so who knows
Modified by bb4ever at 12:51 PM 10/24/2006
i have an 96 obd2 p13 on the way to me, i will post up to see how that works with my motor....
oh and as a sidenote, i have no cat, nor a secondary o2 sensor, so thats why i made the harness to let the sensor and sim just dangle around up in the engine bay....
oh and as a sidenote, i have no cat, nor a secondary o2 sensor, so thats why i made the harness to let the sensor and sim just dangle around up in the engine bay....
mgags what size are your injectors? just remeber obd1 345s obd2 290s. which means you are running quite rich if you are running the 345s with the obd2 ecu?
Do you think the o2 and ecu can compensate?
I guess it doesnt matter because you arent leaving it that way.
Do you think the o2 and ecu can compensate?
I guess it doesnt matter because you arent leaving it that way.
My injectors are the stock 345cc obd1 p&h injectors, and yes, it doesn't run all that well with the obd2 p14, but do remember that this setup works because you are running peak and hold injectors, with a resistor box, on an ecu that is meant to use a setup as such, the only difference is the flow rate of the injectors
if you tried to do this with saturated injectors and no resistor box you could potentially fry and ecu
now, since I did this last year, I have "upgraded" to a stock exhaust and a catalytic off a civic, then I plasma cutter'd the jdm o2 sensor or temp sensor or whatever that **** is that the jdm cats have's bung off, and welded in an o2 bung, and put a sensor in there, so now the o2 sensor setup is as it was meant to be oem, with the exception that I'm running a more restrictive civic catalytic on there, but thats fine for regular driving, as it probably creates less emissions
But yeah I don't reccomend running your car on that ecu for a long time
oh and fried rice....honestly I have no idea whether that will work or not, but I suppose its worth a try
ps. Im gonna go ahead and put a disclaimer in the original post so read up
if you tried to do this with saturated injectors and no resistor box you could potentially fry and ecu
now, since I did this last year, I have "upgraded" to a stock exhaust and a catalytic off a civic, then I plasma cutter'd the jdm o2 sensor or temp sensor or whatever that **** is that the jdm cats have's bung off, and welded in an o2 bung, and put a sensor in there, so now the o2 sensor setup is as it was meant to be oem, with the exception that I'm running a more restrictive civic catalytic on there, but thats fine for regular driving, as it probably creates less emissions
But yeah I don't reccomend running your car on that ecu for a long time
oh and fried rice....honestly I have no idea whether that will work or not, but I suppose its worth a try
ps. Im gonna go ahead and put a disclaimer in the original post so read up
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soundbomber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good info, but it blows that this wouldn't fly in cali
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why not?? do they personally drive your car or something??
ohhh wait don't they check the motor and all out?
</TD></TR></TABLE>why not?? do they personally drive your car or something??
ohhh wait don't they check the motor and all out?
running an older motor in a newer car is strictly forbidden...
i mean, there's ways to get around it, such as running an obd II head etc, but for the most part, it's frowned on
i mean, there's ways to get around it, such as running an obd II head etc, but for the most part, it's frowned on
i ordered the resistor from ebay and should have it in a couple days. Im gonna wire it in and plug in my P72 and see how it does...if it doesn't work, I suppose the non spark plug fouler method is my only other alternative. I'll let you guys know how it turns out
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