I finally got my motor together and it runs fine but it wont engage into VTEC. The set-up goes....

Drivetrain:
USDM ITR tranny
Centerforce Stage 3 Clutch (recommended by my tech, any suggestions)
Toda Flywheel

GSR Head:
Rev Springs & Retainers
Rev Valves
3 angle valve job
port matched intake mani
Skunk2 intake mainfold
Skunk2 Camgears
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
DC 4-1 Headers
ITR Throttle Body
Buddy Club Stage 4 Cams

P72 Stock

LS Block:
OEM B16 Pistons w/ JE rings
Golden Eagle Block Guard
Golden Eagle Girdle Kit
ARP Rod Bolts
Golden Eagle LSVtec Kit

Right now I am running on a stock GSR computer but i put in my friends Skunk2 programmed GSR ECU and it did the same thing. Luckily the only check engine codes i got were for O2 & Knock Sensor (with stock ECU).

Also I wanted to know how many miles should i go b4 really stepping into it granted that i fix the vtec problem.

***I was told by a source that my car would need to be tuned in order for the car to engage into vtec.


Modified by japspecnegro at 11:43 AM 5/23/2005


Modified by japspecnegro at 11:14 AM 5/28/2005

 

NEED HELP...BUMP

 

Your car does not have to be "tuned" to get it to engage into vtec, but I highly reccomend it if its a new motor. I would re-check the oil level. The helms has a great diagnostics section for a non-working vtec system. It will correct the problem no doubt, just follow the directions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your car does not have to be "tuned" to get it to engage into vtec, but I highly reccomend it if its a new motor. I would re-check the oil level. The helms has a great diagnostics section for a non-working vtec system. It will correct the problem no doubt, just follow the directions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I checked my oil last night and it was a lil over the second dot so im guessin its good, but ima pick up the helms manual and check it out.

Does anyone have any advice on breakin in the motor as far as miles go etc.

 

I only mention this because it is a new motor. VTEC is regulated by so many things: oil level, engine temp, coolant level, just to name a few. I know that on a new motor, or a motor that just had all the coolant drained, it needs to sit at idle for 20-30 minutes for the engine to get to a temp where it can release coolant through the entire system. You will notice that the idle will be high during this period of time, but will drop down to a normal level when the task is complete. At that time, make sure the coolant level is at a proper place.

Please post dynos when you get them.

 

once i get home ill let it sit for a while and see. i mean im really not supposed to be going into vtec since its a new motor and it still needs to be broken in but i was eager. I didnt step on it but i did try to ease into vtec to see but it was jus drawn back on me once i was hittin 4,500.

 

if it kinda starts sputtering and stuff when it hits vtec, i went through the same thing with my skunk2 stage 2's. i had to move vtec up to 6k for it to engage smoothly. granted im not tuned either, but someone on here told me the vtec lobes were too big or somethin to be engaging that low of rpm.

 

check the basics.....like the vtec solenoid itself. take it off and clean the filter screen. just a suggestion......

 

usually if your throwing a knock sensor code vtec wont engage because it can harm the motor..

 

possibly in limp mode because of the cel.

 

if it were to be in limp mode it wouldnt even rev up to 4500.. usually when its in limp mode rev limit is 3000

 

vtec will not engage if you try and just ease into it. And yes i think that the knock sensor cel will not let vtec engage either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philafelman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly in limp mode because of the cel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what a friend thought as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it were to be in limp mode it wouldnt even rev up to 4500.. usually when its in limp mode rev limit is 3000</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm yea cuz when i ease into it itll just hit 5 and pull back on me like it doesnt wanna break loose.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Jspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the basics.....like the vtec solenoid itself. take it off and clean the filter screen. just a suggestion......</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea ima get at that after work. someone mentioned that as a basic check up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philafelman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it kinda starts sputtering and stuff when it hits vtec, i went through the same thing with my skunk2 stage 2's. i had to move vtec up to 6k for it to engage smoothly. granted im not tuned either, but someone on here told me the vtec lobes were too big or somethin to be engaging that low of rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm could be. whatd you use to adjust ya vtec engagement RPM?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">usually if your throwing a knock sensor code vtec wont engage because it can harm the motor..</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i put my friends ECU in there and it cleared all codes but it did the same thing damn daamn daaamn.

anyhow i checked the oil last night and thats all good so ill check all the other options to see whats up. You guys or gals got any advice on breakin the motor in (jus follow the specs above)

I appreciate the comments/suggestions. keep em coming if you can think of anything else.

 

i used my vafc to adjust vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philafelman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used my vafc to adjust vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i sold mine cuz i was told by my tuner that since he uses Crome, there;s no need for the V-AFC ???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japspecnegro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked my oil last night and it was a lil over the second dot so im guessin its good, but ima pick up the helms manual and check it out.

Does anyone have any advice on breakin in the motor as far as miles go etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is a good post.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

I broke mine in on the dyno. Once the motor is tuned, you need about 10 full throttle pulls from 2k to redline in 3rd gear (even if on the street. Just be sure to let the car slow down on its own. Dont use the brake) Then the motor is broke in. I've broken in lots of race motors like this, and had nothing but excellent results.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Viper8L488 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only mention this because it is a new motor. VTEC is regulated by so many things: oil level, engine temp, coolant level, just to name a few. I know that on a new motor, or a motor that just had all the coolant drained, it needs to sit at idle for 20-30 minutes for the engine to get to a temp where it can release coolant through the entire system. You will notice that the idle will be high during this period of time, but will drop down to a normal level when the task is complete. At that time, make sure the coolant level is at a proper place.

Please post dynos when you get them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

VTEC is NOT controlled by coolant level.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">usually if your throwing a knock sensor code vtec wont engage because it can harm the motor..</TD></TR></TABLE>

VTEC WILL engage with a knock sensor code. It will not affect the vtec system at all. You could even remove the knock sensor with no effect on the motor (unless your knocking like hell)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it were to be in limp mode it wouldnt even rev up to 4500.. usually when its in limp mode rev limit is 3000</TD></TR></TABLE>


The motor will rev to 5.5k if its in limp mode

 

I had the same problem with my LS-Vtec set-up. When everything was finished, Vtec didn't work...well it did for the first few times. I checked everything, and everything was working fine. I took off the Vtec solenoid and blew it out and cleaned it, then Vtec worked for a few more times then died again. I used a different Vtec soleniod, and it works great now. I'm not sure why this happend, the Vtec soleniod worked fine before, but you may have the same problem I had. Hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DavidT or VajT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem with my LS-Vtec set-up. When everything was finished, Vtec didn't work...well it did for the first few times. I checked everything, and everything was working fine. I took off the Vtec solenoid and blew it out and cleaned it, then Vtec worked for a few more times then died again. I used a different Vtec soleniod, and it works great now. I'm not sure why this happend, the Vtec soleniod worked fine before, but you may have the same problem I had. Hope this helps </TD></TR></TABLE>

ima try a whole new solenoid and see what happens.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here is a good post.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

I broke mine in on the dyno. Once the motor is tuned, you need about 10 full throttle pulls from 2k to redline in 3rd gear (even if on the street. Just be sure to let the car slow down on its own. Dont use the brake) Then the motor is broke in. I've broken in lots of race motors like this, and had nothing but excellent results.

-VTEC is NOT controlled by coolant level.

-VTEC WILL engage with a knock sensor code. It will not affect the vtec system at all. You could even remove the knock sensor with no effect on the motor (unless your knocking like hell)

-The motor will rev to 5.5k if its in limp mode</TD></TR></TABLE>

well granted that ill be able to get past 5K, ill put it on the dyno and break it in but honestly ive never heard of that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japspecnegro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well granted that ill be able to get past 5K, ill put it on the dyno and break it in but honestly ive never heard of that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All you are doing when breaking a motor in, is seating the rings. If you "baby" the engine, your rings will NOT seat, and the motor will most likely burn oil for its entire lifespan. They need pressure on the cylinder walls to seat. Thats why WOT pulls are good on a fresh motor. Once the rings seat, there is no more "break in". Here are some more links.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

All you are doing when breaking a motor in, is seating the rings. If you "baby" the engine, your rings will NOT seat, and the motor will most likely burn oil for its entire lifespan. They need pressure on the cylinder walls to seat. Thats why WOT pulls are good on a fresh motor. Once the rings seat, there is no more "break in".

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I mean Ive been beating on it as much as i can but its kinda hard when i cant get past 5K. the only thing thats was really being broken in was the Clutch & finally seating the rings, but i definetly want to tune the car to see what its running just to be safe so i porbably get that done this weekend.

 

i noticed that someone mentioned tuning the throttle response on the dyno.....GOOD cuz my throttle response sux as of now (untuned). it sux cuz my gears are so short that when i start leading off the clutch @ lyk 2K by the time i hit 4500 its nothing

for hopefully gettin my car tuned.

 

****NEWS FLASH****

Well I was driving yesterday afternoon and all of a sudden i hear this clanky noise under the hood (not good at all). I happen to be cruising with 3 of my boyz and we were about 20ft from our destination so i just shut off the car and pushed around the corner to the shop we were stoppin by. One of their techs ((Cartek)) came out and listened as i cranked up my motor to see what the noise could be. Its a metal on metal sound so he said it could be on of the two scenarios.


Scenario 1: Suppposedly I have JE rings on my brand new stock B16 pistons which from what i am being told are impossible to work together and they somehow came out and are now runnin wild in the block. I noticed that he pulled out each spark plug wire but when he got to the 3rd cylinder and pulled the plug the car shut itself off. (I bought the rings just in case i wanted to spray on top of my set-up)

Scenario 2: I let a good friend borrow my car so he could detail it but i strictly instructed him not to step on it b/c the motor was running like shyt. I get a call at 1 in da morning from another friend stating that he was told that someone saw my detailing budd beatin on my motor. hmmmm. can u imagine how i felt. I called detailing buddy & he denied the claim so now im tryin to find exactly who said they saw him beating on it.

Man this shyt blows and im ready to sell my LS bottom set-up with all the golden eagle goodies and just go str8 vtec. Not only does this set me back but now i gotta come outta the pocket more money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japspecnegro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Man this shyt blows and im ready to sell my LS bottom set-up with all the golden eagle goodies and just go str8 vtec. Not only does this set me back but now i gotta come outta the pocket more money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to hear that. You probably dont want to hear this, but all of your "golden eagle goodies" could be wasted. Lets hope for the best. Good luck with it

I'm not trying to beat on you, but next time you build a motor, do a little more research. Read all that you can, and make damn sure that when you crank that motor, you have all of your ducks in line. Its very well possible that the pistons are scraping the cylinder walls, due to cranking it untuned (lean). Anyway, good luck with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry to hear that. You probably dont want to hear this, but all of your "golden eagle goodies" could be wasted. Lets hope for the best. Good luck with it

I'm not trying to beat on you, but next time you build a motor, do a little more research. Read all that you can, and make damn sure that when you crank that motor, you have all of your ducks in line. Its very well possible that the pistons are scraping the cylinder walls, due to cranking it untuned (lean). Anyway, good luck with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i know. i guess ill start expirementing by taking it all apart my self.