Complete steel brade brake lines? No hard line system??
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I am removing abs system from my car. I was wondering if a complete steel brade line to each brake from a prop valve is ideal. My question is will this make for a stiffer or weeker pedal? I plan to rout lines to rear through the inside of the car. Will elimination of hardlines work? Or would this improve system at all?
I understand what you're asking, but I don't know the answer. My guess is it'll make it worse. Even a steel-braided flexible line is softer than a steel tube.
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I have been assuming that would be the case but. I just want to know if there is going to be a durastic change in performance. Other than performance what would you say to this?
Like I said in the other thread, you cant use braided line like this, the rubber will get eatin alive by the toxins in the brake fluid. You have to use a special rubber hose inside the braided line, and they dont sell rolls like this...
Like I said your best option is to get a roll of Russle anodized hard line, these take AN fittings and need a tube bender and flairing tool. Not a 45deg one either.
But if you dont believe me go and run braided line and see what happens..
Like I said your best option is to get a roll of Russle anodized hard line, these take AN fittings and need a tube bender and flairing tool. Not a 45deg one either.
But if you dont believe me go and run braided line and see what happens..
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If you want to do this you will need the right Proportioning valve and have to run something like the Aeroquip TFE(Teflon Racing Hose). Which is made for hydraulic and high pressure systems. I have no problems with running these lines. Instead of the stock hardlines. It can get costly depending on how you plan on doing it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... you cant use braided line like this, the rubber will get eatin alive by the toxins in the brake fluid. You have to use a special rubber hose inside the braided line, and they dont sell rolls like this...</TD></TR></TABLE>I was assuming you would use the same type of hose as the braided-steel-reinforced BRAKE hoses that are available as kits to replace the stock rubber brake hoses. SOMEBODY has to make that hose. I didn't realize it's not easily available. You can't just use any kind of reinforced hose.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLSVtecTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to do this you will need the right Proportioning valve and have to run something like the Aeroquip TFE(Teflon Racing Hose). Which is made for hydraulic and high pressure systems. I have no problems with running these lines. Instead of the stock hardlines. It can get costly depending on how you plan on doing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well this was kinda my plan. Do you know about how much a foot this runs? And where to get it?.
My plan was to route lines from M/C to a standard 4040 prop then from there run one solid steel/teflon line to each brake. Is this logical?
Well this was kinda my plan. Do you know about how much a foot this runs? And where to get it?.
My plan was to route lines from M/C to a standard 4040 prop then from there run one solid steel/teflon line to each brake. Is this logical?
Thats how I did it. You can get the hose from Summit Racing. I used -3AN hose for everything. It ran about $80 for a 20 ft roll. Its the fittings that can get expensive. Ill try and get the part numbers for the banjo bolt fittings that I used for the calipers.
Sal
Sal
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Thats very true. But I am just trying to take the easy way out on this project. And I am looking to learn if there is going to be a durastic change in performance. And this will help simlify my system a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D3U1LT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ttt. like to hear more input</TD></TR></TABLE>Same here.
i don't see a performace benifit going from a solid steel line to a reenforced line(steel braided line)... i think thats just a waste of money and adding to another part the could fail.
besides, i don't thhink the steel braided line would stand up to the heat... as compared to a soid steel line.
besides, i don't thhink the steel braided line would stand up to the heat... as compared to a soid steel line.
Edit: After talking to a couple more experienced people in the SS braided industry, they said to never use SS braided over hardline for brakes throughout the braking system.
Modified by stealthmode62 at 11:33 AM 1/9/2006
Modified by stealthmode62 at 11:33 AM 1/9/2006
I say honda as well as every other car company on the market knows what they're doing with their billions of dollars of investments and engineering through several decades. They say use hardlines. I think I'll trust them. If there was better options, I think it'd have been made more public and popular by now.
You can buy raw hard line and a hand bender pretty cheap. My friend and I re-did his 49 ford like this, it only took us a few hourse and ti came out really nice. The most expensice part was the flare tool, but I am sure you can get a cheaper one than he got.
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