94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Did a DC2 rear brake swap on my EK this weekend. The swap did not come with brake lines, so I ordered a Goodridge G-stop SS kit for an EM1 and put all 4 new brake lines on the car. All 4 lines are leaking at the fitting that connects the hard line to the stainless line. I have tightened the fitting as much as possible, but as soon you step on the break, fluid weeps out the top between the hard line and the fitting.

Does anyone have any experience with these Goodridge lines? Is there a problem with the flare on the hard lines that doesn't allow them to sit properly against the "nipple" on the stainless line? Is there a difference between the hard lines and/or fittings on an EM1 and EJ8?

Luserkid

Is your hard line fittings stripped? I would take them appart, clean it all up nice and well and try again. Could be that you have a bad batch of SS lines though.

TurboEK9Coupe

I have never had any problems with then Goodridge lines. Are you using a flare or line wrench to tighten all of the fittings? If your using a standard wrench then you will not have enough contact to tighten the line to the proper torque.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Fittings are not stripped. I had contemplated chasing them all with a tap in case it's some corrosion at the top of the threads that's preventing them from clamping down tight on the nipple, but I haven't got the correct size tap yet.

I did use a 10mm flare wrench to remove and reinstall all lines. I'm getting a good grip on the fitting and they are tighter than they should be.

Endo-land

Quick question along with this, as I will be doing a full brake swap once it thaws. Do you need to use teflon tape with brake plumbing?

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Endo-land &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick question along with this, as I will be doing a full brake swap once it thaws. Do you need to use teflon tape with brake plumbing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should not have to use any teflon on brake systems. Everything should be an exact fit.

OP Can you take pics of the inside of the SS lines? (mainly inside the flared end)

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

You do not use the teflon tape. I did use a dab of anti-seize on the fitting to make sure they don't corrode together over time.

TurboEK9Coupe

Don't ever put Teflon tape on any flared fitting. It is used just for "Tapered" pipe fittings. The threads are not the ones that are sealing, the flare on the end of the line is what seals. Also never to use the stuff on any AN fittings. I never use the tape version of the stuff. I use the paste cause the tape could clog up the fitting if your not careful.

Endo-land

I did not think so but thanks for that info. Good luck on the leak man.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I'm going to send these back to Tire Rack, but I will indeed photograph the connections for the archives, and any other info I may find out.

machine4321

were these pre made lines with flares already on them ...or did you flare yourself

1992Si

I would say you have the wrong lines. Check to see if the hard line on your car has a different flare.

Are all Honda brake lines the same?

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

[/QUOTE]<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">were these pre made lines with flares already on them ...or did you flare yourself
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The hard lines are stock EJ8 with no modification to the flares.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say you have the wrong lines. Check to see if the hard line on your car has a different flare.

Are all Honda brake lines the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was my first thought, but it seems pretty unlikely that Honda would put a different flare on an EX and an Si in the same model year. Everything I've ever read says that the entire front caliper assembly is identical, EX or Si, so the line should be the same too.

Anyway, I ordered stock rear rubber lines from a dealer so that I can get the car on the road. I still have the stock rubber lines for the front. When they arrive, I'll be able to remove the SS lines and make a good comparison.

1992Si

They should be the same.

when we swapped ABS calipers onto the yellow car for the bigger pads we ut SS lines and and never had a leak.

Can't remember what lines rota92 bought but no leaks on all 4.

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are all Honda brake lines the same?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are all 10 x 1.25 for Civic and Integras.

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

maybe you overtightened the lines? The hardline connection should NOT be way tight at all. Get it down to where the turning gets tough and give it a quick jolt to tighten it. It's designed so that the connection is already there, the whole reason you tighten the top portion is just to keep it together.

In other words, making the connection WAY tight will not seal it anymore than a small jerk of the wrist torque. In fact, that might be your probably and cause of leak if you stripped the threads by overtightening it.


EDIT: I can almost guarantee this is your issue. After you saying you tightened it as "hard as possible" and with all the torque you'd get from a flare wrench too. This is why it's ALWAYS important to read the manual about torque specs.

I'm hoping this isn't it, because hardlines are NOT fun to replace.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8shorty012 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you overtightened the lines? The hardline connection should NOT be way tight at all. Get it down to where the turning gets tough and give it a quick jolt to tighten it. It's designed so that the connection is already there, the whole reason you tighten the top portion is just to keep it together.

In other words, making the connection WAY tight will not seal it anymore than a small jerk of the wrist torque. In fact, that might be your probably and cause of leak if you stripped the threads by overtightening it.


EDIT: I can almost guarantee this is your issue. After you saying you tightened it as "hard as possible" and with all the torque you'd get from a flare wrench too. This is why it's ALWAYS important to read the manual about torque specs.

I'm hoping this isn't it, because hardlines are NOT fun to replace.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know what you're saying, but just to qualify myself, this isn't my first brake line change or even brake swap from one model to another.

When I tightened the fitting to an appropriate amount, fluid leaked out under the weight of the fluid in the reservoir, no pedal pressure. At that point, I pulled the line off, compared the stock line with the new line, then reinstalled. I began to tighten the fitting incrementally, but the leaking didn't stop and there was movement between the hard line and the fitting until it was "very" tight. At that point, the connection would only leak if pedal pressure was applied.

You're right, I shouldn't have overtightened, but there was visible corrosion on the part of the fitting that was exposed when connected to the stock line. My assumption was that the corrosion was making it tough to seat the fitting in the new line, hence the decision to give it a good crank.

I appreciate everyone's input. I'm off on a work related trip now, so I won't be able to get back under this car until NEXT weekend. At that time, I'll have my new stock rubber lines and will post some photos. Again, thanks to all.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE - 3/23/08:

I removed all (4) Goodridge lines yesterday and replaced them with the (2) front lines that came with the car and (2) new rear lines I purchased from Honda for an EM1 All installed perfectly, no leaks.

The problem with the Goodridge lines is that the flare seat is NOT the same shape as the hard line flare.



On the left, stock EJ8 front line. Center is the Goodridge line. Right is the new EM1 rear line.

Stock lines have a flare seat that looks like an "ant hill". The flare seat on the Goodridge line is almost flat. Tough to see from the pics, but take my word for it.

I'll be sending these photos to Tire Rack, who's been really good about trying to help me find the problem. As of right now though, I would say these Goodrige lines ARE NOT COMPATIBLE with any Honda or Acura factory flare on the hard line.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Update - 3/28/08: Tire Rack agrees that the lines will not work and has refunded my money.