Lookin for a How to or any b4hand pointers i can get for doing a clutch replacement in my b16a1 ef.....will the tranny slide right out with all the room that i do not have or is this one of those pull the motor things and swap the clutch???

searched for an hour and found nothing...


also, i hear that the type r pressure plate and the act 6 puck was a good combo, plus its a lot cheaper than getting the stupid act package


all information would be usefull

 

I pulled the whole thing. Its pretty straight forward, no need for a book or any thing. Disconnect every thing, pull it, pull the tranny off, replace the clutch, reverse every thing.

Here is my story, I got my swap and before hand I got all the parts that would need replacing, clutch flywheel, hoses, belts, ect. The clutch I got was an exceddy from clutch city (eBay) I heard that they where good for the money. Well it wasn’t in fact it wouldn’t even fit. The clutch disc was not machined right and the spline area had raw metal in the way so although the splines where the right spacing and count it just would not fit. I tried to clean it up with files and stuff but to no avail. So desperate to finish my swap I look at the old teggy disc and it looked pretty good, so I put it on with the new exceddy pressure plate. It worked fine till I sprayed it with a fifty shot of nitrous. It would NOT hold.

I drive the car daily, but have a back up M3 just incase I need to go slumming. I also love to take it out to the track. So I knew I had to replace the clutch cuz 14.02 @103 is not cool 103 should get you into the 13s at least I think. So I again cheaped out and got a act solid 6 puck disc that was only like 100 bucks. I went through the pain in the *** of changing the clutch left the exceddy pp in and it works great for the track. Clutch engagement is instantaneous and it holds even a 75 shot with no problem. The pedal is nice and soft as well, feels stock.

The problem now is the instantaneous engagement . Driving on the street is a bitch and I hate it! It makes a loud squealing sound every time I let it out and it feel like I have mad wheel hop.

Moral of this story is don’t cheap out on the clutch!

I don’t know which one you should get maybe someone could help me. I would like to have a strong clutch nice engagement with stock feel the traffic in Hawaii sucks ***.

 

I had a really hard time getting the tranny stabbed back into the motor i was pretty insistent in not taking the tranny mount off becuase i was concerned that i wouldnt be able to get the bolt back in, and tight enough. after about an hour of wrestling with it i took that mount off and it went right in.

If you have done a swap you can do the tranny. if you dont have ac lines in your engine bay id recommend you just pull the whole swap out and do the clutch with the motor off the car, i can pull a motor in a bout an hour so if i had to do it over again i would just do it that way.

Have you already ordered a new clutch i will have an exedy for sale soon with 3k miles on it. I had 0 problems with exedy clutches, in fact exedy is who makes the oem honda clutches, To the above poster its possible that you got a clutch kit for a hydraulic b16a tranny and not a cable, there is a diffrnece, Its also possible that you got the oem style clutch and not the stage 1 organic, most of the clutches clutch city sells are oem style replacements.

If your having problem with the engagement points try adjusting the clucth cable.

 

Hmm so ill just leave the motor in and wrestle with it for a bit till i can snag it out of there........sounds fair enough...didnt think there was going to be enough room to drag it out.

About the actual clutch though, i plan on putting some beef into my motor so i may as well get a good heavy duty clutch now and save myself the hassle of doing this later when the roids get added to my engine. If all goes well with the type r pressure plate and the 6 puck ill definatly be letting all of you know, but that seems to be the direction im going to go in