Hesitation after shutting car off and starting again when engine is still warm.
I did the search function and could not find as much as I would like, so I am posting this topic.
My '90 Accord EX 5sp F22a4 has a hesitation/bogging problem. This usually only happens when I have driven the car (long enough to get the engine to operating temperature), park it, then drive it again with the engine still warm. It will sputter and hesitate in the low RPM range, but when I push the gas to the floor, it will clear up. This usually happens for about 10-15 min after the problem starts, then it does ok. It has also hesitated when being on the road for a long period of time (around an hour).
I know there are many things that could cause this problem, but here is a list of the things I have done to the car:
plugs
plug wires
dist cap
rotor button
ignitor
ignition coil
fuel filter
cleaned throttle body
fuel system cleaner (Lucas)
AEM short ram intake (still had the problem before I installed this)
aftermarket muffler
I CEL has not came on.
My other suspicions are the TPS, IAC valve, EGR, or the entire ECU?
If anyone has had this same problem and solved it, any advice would be greatly appreciated. I just dumped $140 into the ignitor and coil today and still not solved the problem.
Thanks for your time,
Nick
My '90 Accord EX 5sp F22a4 has a hesitation/bogging problem. This usually only happens when I have driven the car (long enough to get the engine to operating temperature), park it, then drive it again with the engine still warm. It will sputter and hesitate in the low RPM range, but when I push the gas to the floor, it will clear up. This usually happens for about 10-15 min after the problem starts, then it does ok. It has also hesitated when being on the road for a long period of time (around an hour).
I know there are many things that could cause this problem, but here is a list of the things I have done to the car:
plugs
plug wires
dist cap
rotor button
ignitor
ignition coil
fuel filter
cleaned throttle body
fuel system cleaner (Lucas)
AEM short ram intake (still had the problem before I installed this)
aftermarket muffler
I CEL has not came on.
My other suspicions are the TPS, IAC valve, EGR, or the entire ECU?
If anyone has had this same problem and solved it, any advice would be greatly appreciated. I just dumped $140 into the ignitor and coil today and still not solved the problem.
Thanks for your time,
Nick
you know, although it might not be related, you might want to check your main relay to see if one of the solders on it has cracked slightly. The whole idea of you reaching operating temperature seems to give off that clue. There was a thread recently on this, if i can find it i will post it up. But consider it. I also wonder if perhaps one or some of the plugs on your main engine wiring harness has come loose, or is making slight contact.
Honestly the main relay will do that and is known to have caused these problems...I would look into that before starting anything else.
Oh and the problem was known to happen to mostly 4th gens. I think the basic guide has information on changing out the main relay, if not nothing a quick search won't solve
.
Oh and the problem was known to happen to mostly 4th gens. I think the basic guide has information on changing out the main relay, if not nothing a quick search won't solve
.
My freinds 97 Acura Integra has the same exact problem. Is the main relay the problem. If so how is it fiexed?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Confuc1ous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where is the best place to get a new main relay other than the Honda dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Usually the main relay problem is just that some of the solderings are cracked and are not producing good enough contact to all the electrical connections. My suggestion would be to resolder the connections. Another option would be to have someone that is good resolder them, I know rubzerk sells resoldered & tested MR's for a decent price
.
Usually the main relay problem is just that some of the solderings are cracked and are not producing good enough contact to all the electrical connections. My suggestion would be to resolder the connections. Another option would be to have someone that is good resolder them, I know rubzerk sells resoldered & tested MR's for a decent price
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Does anyone have a link to the guide for removing the main relay? I remember seeing it and I have tried searching for it, but no luck.
Update on the situation:
I replaced the ECU (bought off eBay for $30). That did not fix the problem. For that small of an amount of money, I thought it would be worth a shot.
I am going to resolder the connections on the main relay sometime this week. I solder parts on circuit boards all day at my job, so it shouldn't be a problem. I have also noticed that the problem is getting worse now that the weather has gotten warmer.
If someone could post up the link to the main relay removal guide on here, it would be greatly appreciated.
Update on the situation:
I replaced the ECU (bought off eBay for $30). That did not fix the problem. For that small of an amount of money, I thought it would be worth a shot.
I am going to resolder the connections on the main relay sometime this week. I solder parts on circuit boards all day at my job, so it shouldn't be a problem. I have also noticed that the problem is getting worse now that the weather has gotten warmer.
If someone could post up the link to the main relay removal guide on here, it would be greatly appreciated.
Update: It now does the hesitation/bogging when the engine is cold or warm, but just after I start the car. It clears up after a few minutes of driving.
It is getting worse. There is also a loud "pop" sometimes during acceleration when it is hesitating. (Maybe a backfire?) Could this be a catalytic converter problem?
I really appreciate any advice and thanks for all the previous suggestions.
It is getting worse. There is also a loud "pop" sometimes during acceleration when it is hesitating. (Maybe a backfire?) Could this be a catalytic converter problem?
I really appreciate any advice and thanks for all the previous suggestions.
i hate to disagree with many of you but it is not a main relay problem,,,,,,,,main relay every single ones i have seen and believe you me it has been quite a few will not let car start if soldering are cracked it will not power up the fuel pump thus car will not start ,,as for this hesitation i would look more into cap, rotor, cam timing, tw sensor , trottle body , egr ports plugged, dirty injectors.fuel filter been replaced lately?? chk fuel pressure when problem occurs
Is it possible for on O2 sensor to be going bad without throwing a code?
I apologize for all the questions, but this problem is driving me nuts!
I really hope I don't end up having to buy a MAP sensor. I read in another thread that stated the theory of ignition (burning rich or lean), and it referred to the MAP and O2 sensor. This makes the most sense to me due to the backfiring.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
I apologize for all the questions, but this problem is driving me nuts!
I really hope I don't end up having to buy a MAP sensor. I read in another thread that stated the theory of ignition (burning rich or lean), and it referred to the MAP and O2 sensor. This makes the most sense to me due to the backfiring.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
On your model accord their is a factory repair procedure for cleaning the EGR ports. Ask your local Honda parts supplier for the repair kit. It requires removing the factory casting plugs in the intake manfold and cleaning into the ports with a drill bit and installing new plugs (included in repair kit). The problem you describe sounds to me like a cam sensor breaking down which will require distibutor replacement. Hope it helps you out.
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fubar1217
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Apr 10, 2006 07:56 AM




