bridging question?
sup guys. i was wondering if i could take this Phoenix Gold octaneR8:0:4 amp and power my front components and use the two remaining channels bridged to a sub? i was wondering what sort of power the comps and sub would be getting? oh yeah the two front speakers are 100 rms each.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diluted »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sup guys. i was wondering if i could take this Phoenix Gold octaneR8:0:4 amp and power my front components and use the two remaining channels bridged to a sub? i was wondering what sort of power the comps and sub would be getting? oh yeah the two front speakers are 100 rms each.</TD></TR></TABLE>The "comps" would be getting 75watts continuas each and 250watts continuas to the sub according to their specs. I would think the sub would get 150watts continuas
94
94
yes, that would be fine to do. if you wanted you rears to be amplified and most importantly x-overed, you can run both your front and rears off of the front half of the amp and the sub bridged off the rear half .. that is not a problem at all .. I have ran this type of set up for hundreds of customers!1 You will be much happier in the long run this way rather than running the rears off of the head like most rookie installers do .. hope this helps you out some !!
since that amp only has four channels, how would i be able to amp the front and rear speakers? aren't the the comps using 2 channels and wouldn't i need 2 channels to bridge for the sub?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diluted »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since that amp only has four channels, how would i be able to amp the front and rear speakers? aren't the the comps using 2 channels and wouldn't i need 2 channels to bridge for the sub?</TD></TR></TABLE>He is saying to parallel the rear speakers with the fronts and wire them all to 2ch of the amp, and running the sub off the 2 other ch. bridged. Let a "rookie installer" tell you why you don't want to do that.
1- With the speakers wired in parallel it's a 2ohm load so the amp would make about 150x2 into a 2ohm load, [those 2 ch. of the amp are going to be working hard and will need more power to do it]
2-As the same amount of watts are going to both the front and rear speakers, and both the front and rear will be x- over at the same point, it's going to make it impossible to set the stage so the system will image from in front of you.
3- You are going to run a sub off the other 2 ch. Bridged mono into a 4 ohm load, the specs say 250watts, I think it's probably closer to 150watts, either way they will be running a sub, sub bass takes a lot of power to make, the power supply in the amp, is going to have a very hard time keeping up.
4- Because you should only be using the rear speakers as "rear fill", and you shouldn't even have any tweeters behind you, some people, [more of us "rookie installers] would say don't use any speakers back there at all but I like speakers in the rear, [mid/midbass] it helps get the image up front, up off the floor, but you need very little power to do that, like HU power.
94
1- With the speakers wired in parallel it's a 2ohm load so the amp would make about 150x2 into a 2ohm load, [those 2 ch. of the amp are going to be working hard and will need more power to do it]
2-As the same amount of watts are going to both the front and rear speakers, and both the front and rear will be x- over at the same point, it's going to make it impossible to set the stage so the system will image from in front of you.
3- You are going to run a sub off the other 2 ch. Bridged mono into a 4 ohm load, the specs say 250watts, I think it's probably closer to 150watts, either way they will be running a sub, sub bass takes a lot of power to make, the power supply in the amp, is going to have a very hard time keeping up.
4- Because you should only be using the rear speakers as "rear fill", and you shouldn't even have any tweeters behind you, some people, [more of us "rookie installers] would say don't use any speakers back there at all but I like speakers in the rear, [mid/midbass] it helps get the image up front, up off the floor, but you need very little power to do that, like HU power.
94
ahh ic, thanks for the help guys. probably gonna stick to amping the front and bridging the sub. im probably gonna run a lower sub because i dont want to be heard down the street. only to increase the overall clarity of my system.
shoot, if you want a 12" subwoofer that is not a "lower" sub without the high price, boy do i have something for you! 
-12" image dynamics IDQv1 dual 4ohm. Never been powered (doesn't even look used)
-known for some of the best SQ out there
Can get pretty loud if all you need is a sound quality oriiented subwoofer
.-doesn't require a lot of power (put 1 coil on 1 channeL)
- Box only needs to be 1.0 cubic feet sealed (unless u want to go 2.0 cubes ported).
-$90 shipped to the lower 48 states
-Sub costs about $170+ shipping brand new.
I'm sure someone on here will fill u in about this sub. For $90, it'll smack anything best buy has to offer in terms of sound quality.
:D

-12" image dynamics IDQv1 dual 4ohm. Never been powered (doesn't even look used)
-known for some of the best SQ out there
Can get pretty loud if all you need is a sound quality oriiented subwoofer
.-doesn't require a lot of power (put 1 coil on 1 channeL)
- Box only needs to be 1.0 cubic feet sealed (unless u want to go 2.0 cubes ported).
-$90 shipped to the lower 48 states
-Sub costs about $170+ shipping brand new.
I'm sure someone on here will fill u in about this sub. For $90, it'll smack anything best buy has to offer in terms of sound quality.
:D
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