Hey Guys,

So for the past couple of days I've been glued to HT researching LSVtec's and Poorman's itr setups. Here's what I want:

200-210whp
Reliability (2-3years of life)
13 second capability on street tires

Which platform will be more reliable? I like the idea of having a high revver which is leading me towards the poorman's route. I'd like to make the bottom end as bulletproof as I can, any suggestions?

I've got $2000 to spend on the motor itself and about 6 weeks of time at the end of the summer to build it. Me and an experienced buddy will do the build. Is this enough money to make a strong motor with the power that I want?

Any and all suggestions on what setup I should go with are welcome.

Thanks.

 

2000.00 will not get you far.I have a gsr block ctr(.25 over) pistons itr cran, itr rods,arp rod blots,fully balanced b16a2 head(stock) skunk2s2 cams omin valve train ported skunk2 manifold,rc310's JDM DC header B16 tranny.8lbs flywheel.
hondatas200. the set up cost me $3800.00
on a 91 tune the car makes 197whp
on a 104 tune the makes 217whp
motor's ran 12.8@108 with high 1.8 60 foot for 2 years and still running strong...

 

Remember, the $2000 budget is just for the motor. It's not for the tranny, axles, mounts etc..

 

Depending on what you have and dont have, you may or may not be able to do it.

If your starting from scratch and need EVERYTHING, $2,000 isnt enough.
If you have some stuff $2,000 will build you a half assed LSV.

I dont think alot of people understand that to build a reliable LS/V that put down good numbers and lasts, usually costs more than a B16/GSR swap. That being said, list what you have so we know where you starting.

 

I have no parts yet. I've got around $3500-$4000 for EVERYTHING needed.

 

when you say you and a buddy will do the build I assume you mean the motor, not just the swap. In that case 2 grand is enough. Especially with the H-T classifieds. Howewer keep in mind the HMO frequently has full GSR swaps on special for under 3 grand shipped. IMO LSVTEC motors are for people who truely have these parts, or most of them lying around. I agree that it just isn't the cheap-o build that many tout it to be unless you are literally going to slap a head on a good shortblock and ride. If you want good N/A power out of the thing then you will have to go through the whole motor. This would be a seriously budget build with free labor and leaving out the dizz, manifolds, trans, ecu, axles, wiring harness, mounts, injectors, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and required amount of beer, and no mods, etc.:

0-300.00 LS block ( I have had several given to me, look out back of your local dealer.)
500.00 B16 head
seals, t-belt, etc. 300.00
bearings/machine shop 250.00
used pistons and rods 150.00
rings 100.00
used ctr/itr cams 300.00 tops

and this is getting you running with a little pep..not 200-210 WHP.

 

I would much rather stay away from just getting a complete swap because I want the experience of assembling an engine. I want to do the internal work. Saving money doing it this way is just a plus. My experienced friends will guide me in the build so I'm not too worried about labor cost or correct assembly procedures, because it'll be done right.

Does anyone have a proven setup that'll make around 200whp that's reliable? I'm after that.

 

do you have at least a block and head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaIntegraR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have at least a block and head?</TD></TR></TABLE>Nope, I've got NO parts now.

I've got 4000 to spend on EVERYTHING I NEED. From that, I've allocated around $2000 for the longblock and all internal work.

 

friend has a complete gsr block for 450$ + shipping

 

i dont think even 4k is gonna get you a 3 yea reliable 200 whp motor

 

I'm not ready to buy parts now. I don't even wanna think about that yet, I've still got a good 2 months worth of research to do. I'm sure this is possible, I just need all the input I can get from you guys.

 

you wanna make over 200 whp your gonna be hitting a lot lower than "13's" but the thing with making an all motor setup like this are you gonna be driving it daily? Your gonna spend a lot of money on maintaining the motor. If your driving it daily, its pretty damn fun to have 200 whp of all motor power at your foot. IDK all im trying to say is thats a lot of whp for a daily driver, i know people do it (2point6) but id never want to. too much **** goes bad when you drive a car like that daily. Just my .02

 

200 hp can be made easily and also be reliable with a bseries

 

ha I made 195 WHP with only 2200 from scratch. You just have to be patient and not rush.

LS block 100
gsr head 500
b16 tranny 500
shift link 100
axles 125
mounts 125
ctr pistons 150
rings 50
bearing set 120
polish crank 20
hone 40
Balance 150
headgasket 100
ARP head studs 110
Arp rod bolts 40

Total is 2230
yOU COULD ALWAYS GET CHEAPER PRICES TOO

nice setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gt35r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ha I made 195 WHP with only 2200 from scratch. You just have to be patient and not rush.

LS block 100
gsr head 500
b16 tranny 500
shift link 100
axles 125
mounts 125
ctr pistons 150
rings 50
bearing set 120
polish crank 20
hone 40
Balance 150
headgasket 100
ARP head studs 110
Arp rod bolts 40

Total is 2230
yOU COULD ALWAYS GET CHEAPER PRICES TOO

nice setup


</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man! You didn't factor in tuning though?

 

thign is.. you can make 200 whp on a stock ITR bottom end. you realize that if you are not goign to be doing the labor yourself.. you will spend about a good 30-40% of your budget on labor.

you should consider doing the least amount of machine work and labor cost possible. that would mean picking up a JDM itr short block for about $1400 or less, or buying a motor thats already been assembled.

get a thin headgasket and find a used head here on HT, maybe you can score a deal with some ctr cams or skunk2's. i think thats the easiest way.. AND you will have minimal downtime.

FYI, i bought a b18b short block with hi comp pistons, lsvtec oil line already installed, and arp rod bolts for $1000 here on HT. i then got a b16 head for $350-400, ctr cams, timing belt and head gasket.

i spent $300 on a used hondata, and $300 for tuning.. i'm puttign down 191 whp righ tnow

 

.H22 POWER. ....what you are saying makes no sense, with my fairly stock b16 with prob about a whopping 150whp at my foot is tempting too........200whp for a NA build is very respectable but its all in the tuning (combined with correct parts).....inline pro makes 312whp on a b16 w/ STOCK internals @ 12psi DAILY driver and people have over 100k on there cars and som have 5yrs of driving no prob.......so all i got to say is research good parts, TUNING, and don't drive like an idiot and you'll be fine

 

tthomass have you ever driven a car with 200 all motor wheel horse power? its quite a bit more powerfull than youd think, especially as a daily driver. You are right about the not gunning it everywhere part, but any car thats gonna be making that kind power reliably and daily is gonna have problems along the way, ive seen it first hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .H22 POWER. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tthomass have you ever driven a car with 200 all motor wheel horse power? its quite a bit more powerfull than youd think, especially as a daily driver. You are right about the not gunning it everywhere part, but any car thats gonna be making that kind power reliably and daily is gonna have problems along the way, ive seen it first hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>If you're not straining the motor what's the problem?

 

200 nah, but hows upper 300's? refer above.......


build it well. tune it better. drive it smarter. -but not to forget, "**** happens" sometimes