So I got the transmission out of the car (again) - only took just over 2 hours this time, I am getting better at it.

Now, the simple step, right? split that tranny wide open and figure out which bearing is making all the damn racket.

That's what I thought. I know that you have to hold the snap ring open and out of the groove before you can completely separate the halves, but this tranny is acting like a stubborn oyster. the Honda bond job on it is great. I can't even fit my smallest screwdriver in there to start prying it.
I've been told to try holding the snap ring apart and shake out the transmission (clutch housing down) and let gravity help. No go here.
I tried to somewhat gently insert a small screwdriver along the seam with a rubber mallet, nothing.

Short of sticking a freaking chisel in there and probably ruin the casing, how do I get 'dem biatches apart?

Sebastien, who's hunting for that damn jack hammer, I know it's around here somewhere...

 

did you take the 14mm reverse bolt out?

did you take the 2 12mm spring bolts with bb's out?

 

reverse switch is out, I am not sure what the 2 12 spring bolts with bb (ball bearing?) are? maybe I missed those. I followed the helms up until it said: remove the snap ring from the grove and separate the two halves...
remember this is a L3 cable tranny that goes on the D16A6.

 

NOT SWITCH....

14 mm bolt that holds the reverse gear thing in place.....

2 12 mm that hold the shift forks in place...make it "notchy" to keep your shift in place...

 

opps....

is that cable or hydro??

if it is cable....ignore my stupidity as my suggestions were for b series hydro!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> remember this is a L3 cable tranny that goes on the D16A6.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks anyway for trying!

 

Try holding the snap ring open while hitting the case near the crack with a deadblow

 

Sounds like a serious glue job.

But I thought that was a feashly rebuilt tranny?

 

Being a cookbook mechanic I am just jealous you got the tranny out so quickly. Hell it took me probably ten hours (with help) to yank out my tranny and slap a new clutch back in. It sounds stubborn. Try this to crack it open:

 

Rubber dead blow hammer does great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rubber dead blow hammer does great </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, just to break the hondabond free

 

allrighty then. I'll be off to Home Despot to buy a dead-blow hammer at lunch time. Thanks for the suggestions.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a serious glue job.

But I thought that was a feashly rebuilt tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, the tranny is a fresh rebuild. However. When I installed it, I over tightened the clutch cable and consequently burned out the throw out bearing. The reason I thought it was burned out was because the tranny was making a loud loud noise when the clutch was not depressed. The noise went away when pushing the clutch in (regardless of what gear it was in, or neutral).
Changed the throwout bearing - which was indeed toast - but the noise is still there.
"Everybody" keeps telling me this is most likely a bad input shaft bearing. So I am trying to split the case to check. I have ordered all the input shaft bearings from Majestic, just in case.
IF I cannot find any bad bearings in there, the last thing I haven't changed is the clutch itself. It is a brand new unit from OPM (Spec clutch with a sprung 6-puck friction disk) - maybe I damaged it with the misadjusted clutch cable? It looks OK to me.
All I know is that i want to fix this before trying to run a 2 hour race!

 

Unless you still have it adjusted wrong and the clutch is dragging when the car is in neutral, its very likely not the clutch. There's not really anything there to make noise.

 

Is it an unsprung clutch? It would most likely chatter some if that was the case.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It is a brand new unit from OPM (Spec clutch with a sprung 6-puck friction disk)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm an idiot

 

Definately need to try to remove the detend ball/spring bolts. There are two of them.

There is also a bolt that holds the reverse idler gear which needs to be removed. Make sure you get *all* the bolts off--there is one hiding under a bracket usually, I'm sure you got it but doesn't hurt to double-check.

Then do what you've been doing with the c-clip--use a rubber or dead blow hammer to break the seal, carefully use a couple of pry bars if neccessary. The Hondabond shouldn't be like 'glue' really (the friction of the dowels is tougher then the bond IMHO), so if you're having a problem chances are there is still a bolt that needs removal.

-k

 

rotten: it is a d-series tranny, the bolts you mention are not there. thanks though.

Victory! it took some pounding with my brand new 3-lb dead blow hammer, some prying with screwdrivers, and the secret sauce: one busted knuckle. That's what was missing all along. A small offering of pain and blood to the car mechanic gods.
That tranny cracked open like an egg. It was then a matter of minutes before I had the shafts out and, lo and behold, the input shaft bearing is noisy. yea. The new one has been on order since yesterday and should be coming in any day now.

Out of curiosity, does any one know what could cause premature death of a newly replaced input shaft bearing? This one had about 3 hours of use when it died. I don't slam gears, I don't speed shift. The only thing I did wrong is that I had the cable way too tight. Thus burning the throwout bearing - could this have also stressed the input shaft bearing to failure?

thanks ya'll, again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Out of curiosity, does any one know what could cause premature death of a newly replaced input shaft bearing? This one had about 3 hours of use when it died. I don't slam gears, I don't speed shift. The only thing I did wrong is that I had the cable way too tight. Thus burning the throwout bearing - could this have also stressed the input shaft bearing to failure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The input shaft bearing problem is pretty common--I've had it happen on a few transmissions to greater or lesser degrees. Typicall it seems to be a design issue, it is just really hard to get the oil all the way up there and into the bearing. However the fact that yours only lasted a couple hours indicates either you had a bum bearing to begin with or perhaps the cable and the throwout bearing did have an impact (I wouldn't have thought so if it hadn't been such an early problem).

Beyond that probably the only thing you really can do to extend the life of the bearing is perhaps change fluid more often so that the lubricant that does get up there on the bearing is at least as effective as it can be.

 

I'm thinking that if there was enough excess heat in the T/O bearing it would have been xfered to the shaft/bearing. Add to that the aforementioned tendency to not get enough lube and poof ... worn bearing in 3-hrs.

Just a theory tho....

 

I don't think I can change the fluid any more often than I did. I changed it afer every weekend on the track.
One possibility that was brought up by the (re)builder of the tranny was that I got unlucky and a small metal shaving got stuck in the bearing. Since the gear box was a complete re-build with new Quaife and FD, some amount of metal particles was expected, and indeed the magnet at the bottom is fairly well covered...

thanks for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking that if there was enough excess heat in the T/O bearing it would have been xfered to the shaft/bearing. Add to that the aforementioned tendency to not get enough lube and poof ... worn bearing in 3-hrs.

Just a theory tho....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like it. the TO bearing was blue in places, so I'd say it had gotten a little warm.

 

wow. next time you have that much trouble throw it in the bed of your truck and bring it to work. i'll help you beat on it with the 20 lb sledge we got.. and if that don't work, we can drop it off the forklift. hahahaa.

 

Just wait till he gets the b00sty truck... hook the input shaft to a tree, hook the case to the hitch and floor it! Just like the redneck frame rack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wait till he gets the b00sty truck... hook the input shaft to a tree, hook the case to the hitch and floor it! Just like the redneck frame rack.</TD></TR></TABLE>Man, I told you not to tell anyone my secrets..

FWIW- I blew an input shaft bearing by starting my motor, letting the clutch out with no fluid in the gearbox, those couple of seconds of freespinning dry did that..