i have a 85 mm block and i also have a 95 mm crank from b20a has any1 ever ran this set up just wandering if the crank will hold up with high rpm's. if not i am going to sell the set up and start drifting.

 

Holland Racing used offset ground B20A cranks for quite a while, there are several others who have used them as well with good success.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urmomluvsme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 85 mm block and i also have a 95 mm crank from b20a has any1 ever ran this set up just wandering if the crank will hold up with high rpm's. if not i am going to sell the set up and start drifting. </TD></TR></TABLE>a crank from a b20 is 89mm, not 95mm that crank must me an aftermarket piece!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a crank from a b20 is 89mm, not 95mm that crank must me an aftermarket piece!</TD></TR></TABLE>

B20A

old school prelude cranks are 95 mm stock u just have to do some machining to make it fit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUPERNATURAL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B20A

old school prelude cranks are 95 mm stock u just have to do some machining to make it fit</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much machining? who can do it? for how much? sorry for all the questions, and for hyjacking the thread

 

from my understanding it's not that much work to machine the crank someone told me that if i used the 95 mm crank that i would have to shift around 7500

 

Therea actually quite of bit of work to do it correctly. You have to add material to the end of the crank so it will seal up on the oil pump. If you wanna use B-series spec rods, you'll have to reduce the size of the rod journal, you have to weld and machine a thrust washer journal on # 4, since on the b20a's its on # 3. And while your doing all that you should re heat treat. FYI

 

so do you think using the crank is worth it i allready have the crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urmomluvsme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so do you think using the crank is worth it i allready have the crank </TD></TR></TABLE>

The price for a machine shop to do that is on par with buying a new crank from eagle, and the eagle will be much stronger. Waste of time IMO.

 

i can get an eagle crank for about 700 i really dont think the machine work will cost more than 400 and the crank is allready knife edged just wondering about the rpm's the crank will handle.

 

you can get eagle crank and free eagle rods for ~$800 in the sponsor section...

 

you need to notch the block or the longer stroker crank's throw will hit the side of the block. That's a cost there that you did not consider but is not wicked expensive to do.

if you want to run a little more rpms, you can run a longer rod if you get one of those pistons that moves the piston pin higher up and squeezes the ring pack closer together.

that allows you to fit the longer rod and piston inside the height of the block without having to add more block height with a deckplate welded on ($$).

you have to realize that when you squeeze the rings closer together in height, they will wear a bit faster than when they are spread out and there's more ringland between the rings.

balancing the crank , rods and pistons is a good idea.

your responsibility will be to choose a reputable machine shop for balancing, machining and assembly and make sure the engine is not too far out of tune when you break it in. follow good break-in procedures after everything is assembled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urmomluvsme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can get an eagle crank for about 700 i really dont think the machine work will cost more than 400 and the crank is allready knife edged just wondering about the rpm's the crank will handle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Machining down journals, welding on metal to the end of the crank, weld a thrust washer journal onto a different main, then heat treat, and you don't think that will be more than 400 dollars? 400 dollars would cover the journals being machined down, the metal added to the end for the pump, and adding the thrust washer. Maybe. You're looking at atleast 200 for balancing and 175 for heat treating on top of that, and you would be left with a very poor crankshaft in comparison to an Eagle.