How Do I Put My Head Back On????
I got a 88 civic hatchback with a d15b2 motor and i took the head off because the head gasket was blown well while i had the head off i turned the motor and now the pistons are in a different place where do the pistons and valves have to be in order for me to put my head back on.....
not trying to be an ***...but TDC is top dead center, when the piston is completely far up as possible, right before it is about to start either the intake/power stroke.
sorry just helping him so he's not confused
sorry just helping him so he's not confused
I charge $30/hour to repair vheicles. I have 5 years of expierence. And my own tools! racererice@hotmail.com I work for wheels and tires too
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Actually, when I bolt on a head, I DON'T bring the number one to TDC before bolting on the head. To be on the safe side, I bring the pistons to roughly that point where all are about halfway up the cylinders. This way, there is NO WAY you are going to bend a valve (which could happen when installing the cam(s), or if the cam in a SOHC head is not also at TDC). Then, I set the cam(s) to the proper position for TDC and carefully bring the crank to TDC. If you do this, you will NOT damage your motor.
so, in other words, it doesn't really matter if the engine got turned, just torque the head on right, and then get the valve timing right. make sure you torque it down in the right order.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bagpipe goatee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, in other words, it doesn't really matter if the engine got turned, just torque the head on right, and then get the valve timing right. make sure you torque it down in the right order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah definitely do it in the right order!!! ..
get a Torque wrench for the blots.. they have to be torqued down to the right numbers... what was it 48?..60?.. dont remember.. you can search that
--DEFINITELY get your head resurfaced at a machine shop.. prob $40.. a must!
heads always warp a bit after you take the bolts off, and from a HG blowing
--FYI(for your information) lol... There is an Arrow on the Block when you have the lower timing belt cover off so that you can pop the crank on and line that SINGLE line up with the arrow, w/out putting the friggin cover on every time to check TDC alignment... Clean it off a bit and you'll see it
and if this is your first time timing the Car .. make sure the Tensioner pulley and bolt, doesn't lose the spring, which keeps tension on the belt. If the spring is off it wont tighten, and you'll kill your valves trying to start it. Also make sure the tensioner is mad tight after everything is timed and done ^_-
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 11:48 PM 5/15/2005
yeah definitely do it in the right order!!! ..
get a Torque wrench for the blots.. they have to be torqued down to the right numbers... what was it 48?..60?.. dont remember.. you can search that
--DEFINITELY get your head resurfaced at a machine shop.. prob $40.. a must!
heads always warp a bit after you take the bolts off, and from a HG blowing
--FYI(for your information) lol... There is an Arrow on the Block when you have the lower timing belt cover off so that you can pop the crank on and line that SINGLE line up with the arrow, w/out putting the friggin cover on every time to check TDC alignment... Clean it off a bit and you'll see it
and if this is your first time timing the Car .. make sure the Tensioner pulley and bolt, doesn't lose the spring, which keeps tension on the belt. If the spring is off it wont tighten, and you'll kill your valves trying to start it. Also make sure the tensioner is mad tight after everything is timed and done ^_-
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 11:48 PM 5/15/2005
ok i turned the motor to where the notch on the pully is straight with the notch on the timing cover and now the number one piston is all the way up so now i just bolt on the head? or do i have to move the cam to where the valves are shut or do i leave it how it is??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OptimusPrimeX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The pistons should be at TDC.. but you'll definitely move it a bit after you put the head on and putting the belt on, so dont worry too much, there's not enough force to bend your valves.. just keep it relatively close to tdc, bolt the head down, then worry about the Cam and the Crank</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree on this. If a valve is open enough to interfere with a piston, then the downforce from tightening the head bolts is most definitely enough to bend a valve. Furthermore, if the head is DOHC, you MUST install the cams AFTER the head is bolted. Since it is somewhat hard to get the cams positioned correctly before they are bolted in, the pistons should DEFINITELY be out of harm's way before bolting the cam towers. I don't care what the manual says. I NEVER install a head with ANY of the pistons ANYWHERE NEAR the top of their bores. By keeping the pistons well below the tops of the bores until things are bolted down and the cam timing dialed in properly, you avoid any possibility of trouble.
I disagree on this. If a valve is open enough to interfere with a piston, then the downforce from tightening the head bolts is most definitely enough to bend a valve. Furthermore, if the head is DOHC, you MUST install the cams AFTER the head is bolted. Since it is somewhat hard to get the cams positioned correctly before they are bolted in, the pistons should DEFINITELY be out of harm's way before bolting the cam towers. I don't care what the manual says. I NEVER install a head with ANY of the pistons ANYWHERE NEAR the top of their bores. By keeping the pistons well below the tops of the bores until things are bolted down and the cam timing dialed in properly, you avoid any possibility of trouble.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disagree on this. If a valve is open enough to interfere with a piston, then the downforce from tightening the head bolts is most definitely enough to bend a valve. Furthermore, if the head is DOHC, you MUST install the cams AFTER the head is bolted. Since it is somewhat hard to get the cams positioned correctly before they are bolted in, the pistons should DEFINITELY be out of harm's way before bolting the cam towers. I don't care what the manual says. I NEVER install a head with ANY of the pistons ANYWHERE NEAR the top of their bores. By keeping the pistons well below the tops of the bores until things are bolted down and the cam timing dialed in properly, you avoid any possibility of trouble.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is very true.. i dont know what i was thinking.. i guess i was trying to explain a better way to keep things relatively lined up for his first time HG replacement.... I was really talking about the force of moving the crank around after the head is on.. or at least thinking that...but i wasn't thinking of bolting it down
most of the time my valves are backed off, and pistons down a bit... so i wasn't thinking of bent valves from tightening the bolts... let me delete that for better reference
this is very true.. i dont know what i was thinking.. i guess i was trying to explain a better way to keep things relatively lined up for his first time HG replacement.... I was really talking about the force of moving the crank around after the head is on.. or at least thinking that...but i wasn't thinking of bolting it down
most of the time my valves are backed off, and pistons down a bit... so i wasn't thinking of bent valves from tightening the bolts... let me delete that for better reference
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oh well...the tensioner is tight

