Hi there guys, recently for the past few weeks I've been out and about searching for an integra and if luck is on my side I should have one in my possesion within the next week. Anyways with all the high theft rates of these vechiles my main concern is to add as many security "layers" as soon as possible when I get it. After reading this board I found that one of the best method for this is to add a hidden fuel cut off switch and being the typical electronic noob I am, I just wanted to ask you guys for some help.

I will be following this schematic diagram as after reading a few thread it seems to be the best.



Anyways i was just wondering what type of relays and diode are you guys using for this? I searched a few threads and I believe one of them listed a parts number to obtain it from radioshack, problem being we dont have radioshack around where I live . What I wanted to ask is if some of you guys can have a look at the following links and maybe tell me which one to buy? Thanks

Diode Link | Relay Link

Also what seems to be the best gauge wire to use? There seems to be a mix response in all the fuel cut off switch threads that I have read.

 

I have never heard of using a diode for the fuel cut off.

I cant remember his name right now, but there is a guy here on HT that is selling a kit. I think it is $15 and that is the switch,wires,relay and instructions. I know he posts in here, but he also has a thread in the classifieds

 

Im not talking about using a diode AS a fuel cut off, just that if you look at the schematic diagram above it shows that you need two diodes. Also its just that its seems every thread I dig up on fuel cut off switches that diagram pop ups so im pretty sure it works well for people to post it up that often.

 

hmm...interesting diagram kind of confused but willing to learn so I can apply this to my vehicle, bump

 

i just used the switch, no relays or nothing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by njandrewg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just used the switch, no relays or nothing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly, don't complicate things

I bought a 12v/30 switch they had @ radio shack for a few bucks

find the thicker of the 2 yellow with green strip wire going along the drivers side to the pump (the other is for the antenna I believe)

splice that biatch and see how you can come up with a "secure" location 4 ur switch

make sure u figure out where u want to put the switch b4 u cut the wire...

have fun and good luck on ur teg search

 

The thing is with a relay it is much safer, some people sometimes buy switches that arent rated to the fuel pump and when they hook it up it causes it to fail and sometimes even melt

From what I read if you put in the right relay you can use any switch no matter how small or big it is, can anyone confirm this for me? Thanks

 

I used a relay in my setup...however i have an external fuel pump with a much larger gauge wire going to it. The power originally going to the oem pump now supplies power the coil on the relay ...shutting the contacts on the relay which then starts my external pump. You CAN use just a switch, however id try to get one intended for motor use due to inrush current ...or something rated for higher amperage

 

I just used a switch as well... rated 5A (automotive) is do its job... I've helped installed this thing on a few other cars and so far no problems...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Optiblue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just used a switch as well... rated 5A (automotive) is do its job... I've helped installed this thing on a few other cars and so far no problems... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I understand that you dont really need it, but I just like the assurance given when done properly knowing that there wont be a chance of my switch melting or fuses blowing while on the highway. Also most switches that can accept the high amperage of the fuel pump usually are big and bulky, much harder to hide.

 

How much current actually goes through the wire? I never heard of blowing a fuse or melting wire or switchs just for a fuel cut off. Theres almost no way that this will happen. I have 3 switches in the car hidden here n there. Absolutly no problem. They dont even get hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sifu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I understand that you dont really need it, but I just like the assurance given when done properly knowing that there wont be a chance of my switch melting or fuses blowing while on the highway. Also most switches that can accept the high amperage of the fuel pump usually are big and bulky, much harder to hide.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've been running mine for 3 years now without any problem. you should be good without running any fuses

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2integra217 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much current actually goes through the wire? I never heard of blowing a fuse or melting wire or switchs just for a fuel cut off. Theres almost no way that this will happen. I have 3 switches in the car hidden here n there. Absolutly no problem. They dont even get hot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah its just the fuel pump, it doesnt need that much power. I believe all u need is a decent switch and get a good splice off the wire. I have a Walboro 255 and im gonna put in this switch soon, but im just gonna get a little one from radioshack.

 

Any picture or how to do, I want to this, but I want to do it properly....

 

All you need is a 12v 20amp swtich and some 14gauge wire works perfect

 

It is a real easy fix. Just find the power wire, intercept the line from the fuel pump to the fuse box with any automotive switch and install your switch where ever you want!. Really it is only a half hour job. All that relay stuff seems way more complicated then it needs to be. Remember the more complicated you make it, the more things can go wrong.

 

Questions:
1) Why 2 relays... you should be able to do this with one relay.
2) My understanding of a diode is a one way valve device... hooking up the diode that way really doesn't do anything. The diode should be inline with the coil on the relay and is used to protect the ignition switch. When the relay is de-energized it sends current back up the line to the switch where it will arc. Eventually it'll result in failure of the switch. Installing a diode will prevent this current from doing this.

just my $0.02

 

Sorry not to sound rude or anything but my original question hasnt been answered. Does anyone know which relay I should use? Maybe have a look at the links I posted in the first post and show me? Thanks

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1194912

That's all the information you need. The OP was kindly enough to provide ALL the information you might need to create your own kill switch.

 

That link shows that you need a switch that is supported to atleast 12V. I was always under ther impression (well after reading all the fuel cut switch threads anyways) that with a relay you can use any switch you want?

 

Use a standard bosch relay. Size it for what ever the rating on the fuse for the fuel pump, this 40A should do the trick.

http://www.waytekwire.com/bosc...s.htm

The coil in the relay won't pull too much current so you can pick pretty much any switch you want... buy something pretty robust but should be 12VDC rated. Anything rated for 1A is plenty.

Wire, if you're adding significant length to the wiring (power side) up the gauge 1 size... 14 gauge would be safe.

Diode... 1N4005 or something close would do the trick, this should be wired inline with the switch to protect it when closing the circuit.

Don't bother with your wiring diagram... wire it up as erikiksaz1 has posted.

 

Thanks alot man, your post really answered most my question. Last thing though, that link says I need a spst relay for the fuel cut off where as the ebay like he posted shows a spdt realy, it doesnt really matter which one I use does it? Also like you said, any switch should work once used with a relay so do I really need one rated at 12v?

 

I think you might be getting voltage and amperage mixed up. For the most part, when dealing with kill switches, people try to make sure that the switch has a high enough amp rating to satisfy the needs of the relay. A 5-10 amp switch should be more than enough, whereas most people will probably tell you to choose something at least 1 amp.

 

Doesn't matter which relay you pick.... but SPST should be cheapest. Buy a robust switch and it should be 12VDC rated. You go cheap on this switch and it breaks, can't drive your car unless you bypass the fuel cut.