BORED OUT!!!
81.5
some guys feel lucky and try 82mm.......but those are custom pistons and to expensive for the "cheap cheap bastard"
do it right or dont do it at all.........
some guys feel lucky and try 82mm.......but those are custom pistons and to expensive for the "cheap cheap bastard"
do it right or dont do it at all.........
does anyone know what the cost is to resleeve a block for 84.5mm pistons and the cost to just bore out your block for some 81.25 or 81.5mm pistons...I wanna know what the price is ...if it's only 500 I'll resleeve the bitch and more than that FAWK it
sleeves are around $70-$100 per sleeve just a rough estimate and that's not installed, bore out your stock sleeves i think is around 70 bucks from your local machine shop and if you can do the install <gap rings, bearings, etc.> another 70 to balance the crank and flywheel...again these prices are from my experience and local shops...
...
...$585 for GE sleeves if you get in on a group buy before March 1st... and I believe that's the good ones that post to the block...
does anyone know what the cost is to resleeve a block for 84.5mm pistons and the cost to just bore out your block for some 81.25 or 81.5mm pistons...I wanna know what the price is ...if it's only 500 I'll resleeve the bitch and more than that FAWK it
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I think around 83mm or so, the ribs start to show in the stock sleeves.
I'd feel fine running 82mm, which would make the motor 1841cc w/ a 87.2mm crank, or 1879cc w/ a 89.0mm crank.
If you got the cash, go for a sleeve. Go like 85mm or 86mm bore, use some headgasket spray and a Cometic gasket. It won't leak at all.
I'd recommend opening up the combustion chamber, though.
I'd feel fine running 82mm, which would make the motor 1841cc w/ a 87.2mm crank, or 1879cc w/ a 89.0mm crank.
If you got the cash, go for a sleeve. Go like 85mm or 86mm bore, use some headgasket spray and a Cometic gasket. It won't leak at all.
I'd recommend opening up the combustion chamber, though.
what's more reliable 81.25-81.25mm or a resleeved 84.5mm? or 85mm.....?
and does anyone have personal experience on the exact price difference between boring out and resleeving..including balancing and bearings etc...
and does anyone have personal experience on the exact price difference between boring out and resleeving..including balancing and bearings etc...
It wouldn't be as far off from 2.0l as you would think. With an 84mm bore it won't be 2.0l, it will be 1932 compared to 1973 for using the B18B crank, so it' safe to say that 85 and probably 84.5 will round up to 2.0l when using a B18C crank.
I don't think you'd be at as big a disadvantage from a revvability standpoint by using a B18B crank, but I don't think it's worth replacing the stock one with it. Using a 95mm crank on the other hand...
I don't think you'd be at as big a disadvantage from a revvability standpoint by using a B18B crank, but I don't think it's worth replacing the stock one with it. Using a 95mm crank on the other hand...
Some road racers bore B18 blocks out to 82 mm and they say that's safe for a normally aspirated high RPM engine. I've read that many make as much as 250-290 flywheel HP with their reverse rotation engines, so the blocks must hold up pretty good. Don Flores Enterprizes is one such engine builder and i respect his knowledge, as his engines have powered many winning road race Hondas for the last several years.
NA engines require more fuel and this is why.
To make the most power NA, a lot of overlap is required. As a result a lot
of fuel is blown straight through into the exhaust and wasted. Due to this
much more fuel is necessary to compensate.
Stock engines usually run 100% duty with stock injectors and thats with the
stock ecu. my 1.8L was seeing about 100% duty cycle with 310cc injectors
at 60psi.
And now you are talking about a 2.0+L that has a much greater power output
so it will require even more fuel.
To make the most power NA, a lot of overlap is required. As a result a lot
of fuel is blown straight through into the exhaust and wasted. Due to this
much more fuel is necessary to compensate.
Stock engines usually run 100% duty with stock injectors and thats with the
stock ecu. my 1.8L was seeing about 100% duty cycle with 310cc injectors
at 60psi.
And now you are talking about a 2.0+L that has a much greater power output
so it will require even more fuel.
Do you actually think you can burn that much fuel on a NA engine?
I would even venture to say that MOST 240cc injectors are not used to 100%
capacity
I would even venture to say that MOST 240cc injectors are not used to 100%
capacity
Here's a good point... Honda uses the 240cc injectors on MOST of it's cars... D16 to B18C 98 Spec R... ( to use your argument... A Type R engine has a MUCH greater output over an D16...)
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,633
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
You never burn the entire mixture. That is a fact.
And butt dynos are never right.
???? Point being??
If you "never" burn the entire Mixture then why... do you need more fuel?
Do you honestly think "Blowing Fuel Straight through" gives you more power?
FWI...
The engine I spoke of was tested and Dynoed by a company called Nakayama.
Butt dyno's are not needed here. I think you are misinformed of just plain clueless.
I bet you have an After market fuel rail too....
And butt dynos are never right.
???? Point being??
If you "never" burn the entire Mixture then why... do you need more fuel?
Do you honestly think "Blowing Fuel Straight through" gives you more power?
FWI...
The engine I spoke of was tested and Dynoed by a company called Nakayama.
Butt dyno's are not needed here. I think you are misinformed of just plain clueless.
I bet you have an After market fuel rail too....
...no room for childish crap here... Sgt is a very respected member of this board... regaurdless of wheather you are right or wrong, you will be disrespected in this forum for flaming members who have proven themselves on and off the track... now, somewhat in your defense, NA Honda engines have made more power than yours with smaller injectors and less conventional tuning... but now I'm opening myself up for a good flame job as I won't back up that statement... so heed Zeus's words, and make your points with less attitude and more good information, or become one of the exiled many...
If you "never" burn the entire Mixture then why... do you need more fuel?
Do you honestly think "Blowing Fuel Straight through" gives you more power?
FWI...
The engine I spoke of was tested and Dynoed by a company called Nakayama.
Butt dyno's are not needed here. I think you are misinformed of just plain clueless.
I bet you have an After market fuel rail too....
Do you honestly think "Blowing Fuel Straight through" gives you more power?
FWI...
The engine I spoke of was tested and Dynoed by a company called Nakayama.
Butt dyno's are not needed here. I think you are misinformed of just plain clueless.
I bet you have an After market fuel rail too....
D



on me