Running slicks without buffled oil pan ?
My ITR has street tires for track days so far. My friend took me on a track with his CRX on full slicks and all I can say is wow
. The difference is really significant, so now I'm thinking about using some slicks on my ITR.
Anybody is tracking their ITR on slicks and stock oil pan or is it a must to have a baffled pan? I'm a bit worried about oil stravation with the stock pan..
Anyway, I have seen many baffled designs and it seems to me that the oil is very well protected to go back and forth while braking/accelerating, but the oil can move to the sides easily IMO.
. The difference is really significant, so now I'm thinking about using some slicks on my ITR. Anybody is tracking their ITR on slicks and stock oil pan or is it a must to have a baffled pan? I'm a bit worried about oil stravation with the stock pan..
Anyway, I have seen many baffled designs and it seems to me that the oil is very well protected to go back and forth while braking/accelerating, but the oil can move to the sides easily IMO.
A baffled pan on a car that sees plenty of track duty is a good idea in my opinion and something that sould be done. There may never be an issue, but it is all about PREVENTING a potential catastrophic problem.
I'm installing the Mugen pan next week.
I'm installing the Mugen pan next week.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A baffled pan on a car that sees plenty of track duty is a good idea in my opinion and something that sould be done. There may never be an issue, but it is all about PREVENTING a potential catastrophic problem.
I'm installing the Mugen pan next week.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that just about sums it up
I'm installing the Mugen pan next week.
</TD></TR></TABLE>that just about sums it up
Flux is right on point!
But I have had starvation issues on street tires while on track, it's real obvious when you starve... No VTEC
I would do it, it's a not too exspenive way prevent damage.
But I have had starvation issues on street tires while on track, it's real obvious when you starve... No VTEC

I would do it, it's a not too exspenive way prevent damage.
If you look on most baffled pans, they seem to protect the oil from moving while accelerating and braking, but the oil can move to the sides easily, because most of the baffles are in the front and back of the pan, the sides seem to me untouched. For example this pan:
I just installed the Mugen this weekend..
It does have some vertical baffling, right in the middle of the baffles that extend over the deep part of the pan.. they are however, very limited.
It does have some vertical baffling, right in the middle of the baffles that extend over the deep part of the pan.. they are however, very limited.
I have run victoracers on the track many times. I am just now going to pick up a baffeled pan. my last treck out too srp I had no vtec once in a hard left corner. I don't want this again! Although it does take a very tough beating to make them act like this.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm installing the Mugen pan next week.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey me too
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hey me too
you are accelerating and braking while turning, so it does provide benefit..
there are other models, like the one from canton engineering that provide a bit more protection..
I have yet to hear of anyone that has a baffled pan having starvation issues.. even if they do appear to be the "wrong" orientation with the baffles.. the oil pickup prevents flipping them the other way though..
I use a heeltoeauto.com baffled pan..
there are other models, like the one from canton engineering that provide a bit more protection..
I have yet to hear of anyone that has a baffled pan having starvation issues.. even if they do appear to be the "wrong" orientation with the baffles.. the oil pickup prevents flipping them the other way though..
I use a heeltoeauto.com baffled pan..
I would like to modify my stock pan:
1) Is it from aluminium or any other metal? AFAIK thin aluminium plates are very hard to weld, so I am worried that the welding can make holes in the pan easily.
2) Do I have to weld the baffles in, or is there any place to use rivets? If there are some existing little baffles in the stock pan (second layer of material), I could use rivets here.
Thanks in advance
1) Is it from aluminium or any other metal? AFAIK thin aluminium plates are very hard to weld, so I am worried that the welding can make holes in the pan easily.
2) Do I have to weld the baffles in, or is there any place to use rivets? If there are some existing little baffles in the stock pan (second layer of material), I could use rivets here.
Thanks in advance
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to modify my stock pan:
1) Is it from aluminium or any other metal? AFAIK thin aluminium plates are very hard to weld, so I am worried that the welding can make holes in the pan easily.
2) Do I have to weld the baffles in, or is there any place to use rivets? If there are some existing little baffles in the stock pan (second layer of material), I could use rivets here.
Thanks in advance
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm no welding expert, but I would advise against using rivets.. the idea is to keep the oil on top of the baffles, rivets may not provide a complete seal and allow the oil to seep through..
I suppose if the plate mounted well and the rivets tightened everything up well it could work..
Lastly, I have my stock pan I now need to sell if anyone wants it to experiment.
1) Is it from aluminium or any other metal? AFAIK thin aluminium plates are very hard to weld, so I am worried that the welding can make holes in the pan easily.
2) Do I have to weld the baffles in, or is there any place to use rivets? If there are some existing little baffles in the stock pan (second layer of material), I could use rivets here.
Thanks in advance
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm no welding expert, but I would advise against using rivets.. the idea is to keep the oil on top of the baffles, rivets may not provide a complete seal and allow the oil to seep through..
I suppose if the plate mounted well and the rivets tightened everything up well it could work..
Lastly, I have my stock pan I now need to sell if anyone wants it to experiment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My ITR has street tires for track days so far. My friend took me on a track with his CRX on full slicks and all I can say is wow
. The difference is really significant, so now I'm thinking about using some slicks on my ITR.
Anybody is tracking their ITR on slicks and stock oil pan or is it a must to have a baffled pan? I'm a bit worried about oil stravation with the stock pan..
Anyway, I have seen many baffled designs and it seems to me that the oil is very well protected to go back and forth while braking/accelerating, but the oil can move to the sides easily IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you come to a conclusion yet? Which oil pan would be the best to get?
. The difference is really significant, so now I'm thinking about using some slicks on my ITR. Anybody is tracking their ITR on slicks and stock oil pan or is it a must to have a baffled pan? I'm a bit worried about oil stravation with the stock pan..
Anyway, I have seen many baffled designs and it seems to me that the oil is very well protected to go back and forth while braking/accelerating, but the oil can move to the sides easily IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you come to a conclusion yet? Which oil pan would be the best to get?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been considering an oil pan, but so far my oil pressure gauge has told me I don't need to bother.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was this before or after the burnination?
-Brad, who also made engine bay au Flambé.
Was this before or after the burnination?
-Brad, who also made engine bay au Flambé.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mythias »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Was this before or after the burnination?
-Brad, who also made engine bay au Flambé.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Before.
Moroso Road Race pan, like $230 or so.


Was this before or after the burnination?
-Brad, who also made engine bay au Flambé.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Before.
Moroso Road Race pan, like $230 or so.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Before.
Moroso Road Race pan, like $230 or so.


</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anybody tried one of these yet? I just wonder about the clearance with the extra piece on the side.
Before.
Moroso Road Race pan, like $230 or so.


</TD></TR></TABLE>Anybody tried one of these yet? I just wonder about the clearance with the extra piece on the side.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what for? they are always in oil anyway...</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah thats what i figured
yeah thats what i figured


