Im looking to sand and paint my own car. what are the sanding steps and paper needed?

also exact steps to wet sand.

Im looking to paint my integra Brilliant Red (2004 Audi S4).

Im gonna use base then clear.

Needs steps.

THanks

 

it's pretty funny, i have a 92 integra gsr too!! jk, but yeah i just finished with the 4th coat of base(agp) on my passy rear qp. First off, you'll need to strip the paint off to get a good adhesion to the metal. I suggest media blasting, preferably with glass beads. then you'll have all the paint off with minimal metal loss. Then spray primer over it, 3 thin coats, then wetsand with 500 grit, then final primer coat, the base should get about 12 or so coats. I do 6 coats, wait a day, wetsand, 6 more, wait a day, wetsand, final coat, then do the same with clear. the sanding part is just to remove any imperfections and level out the highs and lows. This is definitely a concise explanation. But just try a small piece of metal first and see how it turns out, and compare it with the rest of the car or whatever.

 

thanks..anyone else car to do a more detailed procedure?

i want to do 3-4 coats red, and 3-4 coats clear. and is primer nessecary? the car is red now..so does it need to be sanded down to the metal? what should i do inside the doors?

 

You only need to primer if body work has been done.

 

the point of primer is to make the bc stickbetter, and tofill in little imperfections in the surface. You just have to sand the surface with about 400 grit if you're gonna paint it the same color.

 

u dont have to strip all the paint unless the paint is really burned.

I suggest to get hold of a electrical sander makes the job alot easier and faster!

-if your going to be doing it by hand i suggest 300 grade sand paper something like that to sand it off!

-Also get sanding scuff pads for the hard to reach areas.

-if u have dents or dings. For dents try to get hold of a dent puller and for dings u can use body filler but try to minimize the use of body fillers.

-for wet sand on clear coat i suggest 1500 grade sand paper. the sanding is gonna make your car look dull and scratched look but dont worry its supposed to look that way.

-get hold of a good buffer and get the good **** like 3m glaze or somehing like that i forgot the right word for it and this to remove the 1500 sanding. Also get the 3m swirl remover for the swirls. If u dont know how to use a buffer get somebody to help u.

-most important when using sand paper try not to stay in one place u will burn through and u will leave a sort of warped look on the body when your finish painting it. Sand with criss cross kinda way.

I learned a this stuff from my friend who used to work at a body shop at the honda dealership.

Good luck bro!

 

good stuff. im messing around with my lip right now trying to take the many many layers or spray krylon off it, sanding this thing sucks. thanks for the advice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good stuff. im messing around with my lip right now trying to take the many many layers or spray krylon off it, sanding this thing sucks. thanks for the advice</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is what i suggest! this going to be a little more work but will do the job.

items to buy: (2) 200 s. p.
(2) 300 s.p.
(2) 400 s.p.

First sand off the lip w/ 200.
Next when your finished sand it off with 300.
Finally w/ 400 to smooth it out.

 

i've been ******* this 220 grit. this damn lip is intricate. lots of work http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've been ******* this 220 grit. this damn lip is intricate. lots of work http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

well u might want to use paint strip remover. they sell it any auto parts shop. after u strip it u can sand it.

 

yup, did that. twice. i personally put lat least 20 coats of yellow plus adhesive promoter plus clear the 5-6 times i have painted it. so yeah. it was pretty thick. i got it done last night though. i suck at body work. we're taking surise pics in a couple hours. ill link you to make sure you see.
thanks for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, did that. twice. i personally put lat least 20 coats of yellow plus adhesive promoter plus clear the 5-6 times i have painted it. so yeah. it was pretty thick. i got it done last night though. i suck at body work. we're taking surise pics in a couple hours. ill link you to make sure you see.
thanks for the help</TD></TR></TABLE>


from what i see on the first...your ride look nice!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doubledeala &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's pretty funny, i have a 92 integra gsr too!! jk, but yeah i just finished with the 4th coat of base(agp) on my passy rear qp. First off, you'll need to strip the paint off to get a good adhesion to the metal. I suggest media blasting, preferably with glass beads. then you'll have all the paint off with minimal metal loss. Then spray primer over it, 3 thin coats, then wetsand with 500 grit, then final primer coat, the base should get about 12 or so coats. I do 6 coats, wait a day, wetsand, 6 more, wait a day, wetsand, final coat, then do the same with clear. the sanding part is just to remove any imperfections and level out the highs and lows. This is definitely a concise explanation. But just try a small piece of metal first and see how it turns out, and compare it with the rest of the car or whatever.</TD></TR></TABLE>
12 coats of base? are you serious? even kandy doesn't need that many coats. where did you get your info? read you tech sheets. most manufactures like PPG only require 2-4 coats of base.
here's a quick how to. after the body work is done and primed. sand the car with 400-600 grit wet or 600 grit dry using a da. wash the car and let it completly dry. mask your car and go over the whole car with wax grease remover. using a tack rag and remove any dust particles. shoot your 2 coats of primer sealer. wait the recommended time based on the tech sheets before shooting your base. shoot 3 coats of base and again wait the recommended time based on the tech sheets before shooting your clear. shoot 3 coats of clear. do not shoot more than 3 coats. 3 is the max you should shoot at a time. you don't want to stack too many coats at one time. if you want more clear. let clear cure for 24-48 hours and wet sand with 600 grit and remove all orange peel. now you can lay 3 more coats of clear or you can just flow coat it. flow coating is over reduced clear usually over reduced by 15%. when flow coating only lay 1 wet coat. when you flow coat you will get a nice glass finish with none or minimum buffing required.

 

i'm using lacquer, not enamel, nor urethane. read your tech sheets on lacquer and tell me what it says.

 

your didn't say you were using lacquer. you said 12 coats of base. what also threw me off was when you said you cleared it and we all know it's not necessary to clear laquer. i assumed you were using a base clear system. but yes if your using lacquer 12 coats would be right. the guy that posted this topic asked for the steps for using base/clear system. what you posted will misslead him.

 

it's not neccessary, but if you want it to stay long, and chip the clear rather than the base...good idea to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 19civic93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
shoot 3 coats of base and again wait the recommended time based on the tech sheets before shooting your clear. shoot 3 coats of clear. do not shoot more than 3 coats. 3 is the max you should shoot at a time. you don't want to stack too many coats at one time. if you want more clear. let clear cure for 24-48 hours and wet sand with 600 grit and remove all orange peel. now you can lay 3 more coats of clear or you can just flow coat it. flow coating is over reduced clear usually over reduced by 15%. when flow coating only lay 1 wet coat. when you flow coat you will get a nice glass finish with none or minimum buffing required.</TD></TR></TABLE>

after u shoot 3 coats of clear u say to sand it with 600. Its understandable to reduce orange peel but after u sand it do u buff the car. j/Curious? cause wont the clear look ruff, dull, sanded look. Do u buff the car and then wait 24 hrs to add more coats of clear or is there no buffing required.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_type_r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

after u shoot 3 coats of clear u say to sand it with 600. Its understandable to reduce orange peel but after u sand it do u buff the car. j/Curious? cause wont the clear look ruff, dull, sanded look. Do u buff the car and then wait 24 hrs to add more coats of clear or is there no buffing required.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can shoot you 3 coats of clear wait 24-48 hours then sand and buff. sanding with 600 is only if you want to add more clear. you don't want to put more than 3 coats of clear at one time so if you want more clear you would wait at least 24 hours sand with 600 then add 3 more coats of clear or a single flow coat with over reduced clear. flow coating will give you minimal to no orange peel and may not require buffing at all. to sand and buff you would start on a grit depending on how much orange peel you have but you have to be very careful not to break through the clear. you can't start with 1000-1500 and work your way up to 3000 then buff. i usually start with 1500 dry using a dynabrade 3/32 orbit da using an interface pad. this way is more expensive cause you go through a lot of paper but it's a lot faster. sanding dry also lets you gauge how much orange peel is left a lot easier. when you wet sand you always have to dry the panel to see how much orange peel is left. after i sand with 1500 and all the orange peel is gone i wet sand with 3000 using the same da. then i buff.