Well, hit the dyno today and turned out a dissapointing dyno. First my setup is...
OBD0 B16
LS cable tranny
AEBS IM
BBK 62mm TB
Short ram intake
CTR N1 crank pulley
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
NKK clutch
Megan stainless 4-2-1 header
Magnaflow stainless 2.5 catback
With that said I was hoping for about 145, but turned out to be 114.45hp and 91 ft lb trq in 3rd gear. The gears are too long to where it won't even make peak power.
I had been leaning towards boosting again like my past 2 cars (both D series). Or should I swap out trannies and continue building N/A.
Any suggestions?

 

off topic, but do you have pics of your exhaust system. Im lookin into an oval setup too.

My setup is real similar to yours except I have a ys1 tranny, skunk2 im, 12lbs fly, dc header, no tb or crank pully. I'm hopin for at least 145-150 whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, hit the dyno today and turned out a dissapointing dyno. First my setup is...
OBD0 B16
LS cable tranny
AEBS IM
BBK 62mm TB
Short ram intake
CTR N1 crank pulley
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
NKK clutch
Megan stainless 4-2-1 header
Magnaflow stainless 2.5 catback
With that said I was hoping for about 145, but turned out to be 114.45hp and 91 ft lb trq in 3rd gear. The gears are too long to where it won't even make peak power.
I had been leaning towards boosting again like my past 2 cars (both D series). Or should I swap out trannies and continue building N/A.
Any suggestions?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? What condition was the engine in when u got it? How many miles? Does it smoke at all at high rpms?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, hit the dyno today and turned out a dissapointing dyno. First my setup is...
OBD0 B16
LS cable tranny
AEBS IM
BBK 62mm TB
Short ram intake
CTR N1 crank pulley
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
NKK clutch
Megan stainless 4-2-1 header
Magnaflow stainless 2.5 catback
With that said I was hoping for about 145, but turned out to be 114.45hp and 91 ft lb trq in 3rd gear. The gears are too long to where it won't even make peak power.
I had been leaning towards boosting again like my past 2 cars (both D series). Or should I swap out trannies and continue building N/A.
Any suggestions?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those #s are horrible, are you running a cat? and I would recomend doing a compression test to see`what kind of shape your motor is in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gears are too long to where it won't even make peak power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not really how it works. Torque is calculated from the gear ratios, so horsepower is the same in every gear. Unless it physically couldn't turn the wheels fast enough to reach the redline, it's reading right.

 

Driving the car, you'd never know the # is that low. Sounds beautiful, runs perfectly smooth, no cel, good compression. A/F mix was perfect.
Motor came from HMO, it is fine. Looking at my engine bay is picturesque, I know it has alot to do with the tranny, but I had no idea it would turn out like that.
They made 3 passes on the dyno...
#1 113hp 90tq
#2 114.4 90tq
#3 113.15 90tq

 

Something wrong with the dyno maybe?

 

wow.. yea.. wtf... motor is way messed up or the dyno is

 

I am thinking it has got to be in the dyno. My car runs perfectly fine.
I can't figure it out.
Looking at the gragh, the power is a smooth increase, with the vtec transition at 5k. They let off at 7k but my redline is at 8k. Torque was smooth just like hp. The A/F is consitant on all 3 runs, right at 13. The dyno is a Dynojet Winpep7 in ground.

Driving the car (which I don't do much) is a blast; as far as pulling from a stop into traffic, my zero to sixty is great. It just seems like 2+2=5 right now, something isn't adding up.

 

you think your zero to 60 is great you would like it a hell of alot better then if you got rid of that ls tranny and put a b16 tranny on there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asilaydying1984 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think your zero to 60 is great you would like it a hell of alot better then if you got rid of that ls tranny and put a b16 tranny on there</TD></TR></TABLE>
trying to locate one now

 

humm i dont know... maybe you have auto b16 cams for some reason...

 

Yes, I do. The motor came from a jdm auto (flywheel plate)
I had my tranny already because my first motor I started on was a B18B1, but I sold it and bought the B16. Would the auto cams differ from the 5 sped cams?

 

Damn, I just found this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1064200
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=896163

So is it the cams, I know it is partially but is there more to it?

 

you may have an auto ecu too?

 

hopefully its just the auto cams. I feel sorry for you dude, my buddy has a fairly beat up b16 in his crx and with i/h/e cam gears pulled 163. One thing you might want to try is a compression test. the first motor we put in his car ran fine and sounded great,but had like 110psi comp. but compared to his new 165psi across all cylinders b16... no comparison

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFoneateSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully its just the auto cams. I feel sorry for you dude, my buddy has a fairly beat up b16 in his crx and with i/h/e cam gears pulled 163. One thing you might want to try is a compression test. the first motor we put in his car ran fine and sounded great,but had like 110psi comp. but compared to his new 165psi across all cylinders b16... no comparison</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lose the auto cams. These cost ALOT of power. Get manual B16A cams, GSR cams, or (better yet) ITR/CTR cams. You could also use this opportunity to just go aftermarket (ie Skunk2, Buddy Club, etc.). Just remember that with even B16A or GSR cams, you will need to get double springs for the intake side (auto motors have just singles on the intake side). Also, you will want to check on the ECU. The auto ECU also costs you power.

 

I am going to try to find a good set of CTR's and 01 ITR springs. If not it will be the Crower, SKS1, or BC cams w/ dual springs.

The ECU is a manual, actually the one I bought was DOA, so I am using someone elses ecu

 

not to hurt your feelings or make you worry even more... but those dynos also tend to give off "high" numbers.

the auto cams will have alot to do with it... but you need to check your compression... in all honesty its got to be more than cams... and i doubt the dyno is that far "off"

my D16a6 made 112.1 whp on a "conservative" dyno... that reads about 12% lower typically than the dyno type you would have used.

 

No worry, feelings won't be hurt at all. I'm looking into cams now, and will try to get the compression test done again on my lunch break todqay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No worry, feelings won't be hurt at all. I'm looking into cams now, and will try to get the compression test done again on my lunch break todqay</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16A: short 3" intake/4-1 header/60mm exhaust/no cat/fpr/chipped pr3

Dynojet
&lt;--149whp@7700 rpm
&lt;--103wtq

if i had an upgraded TB and AEBS intake manifold. i would seriously be making 160whp 110wtq these ******* are making at flywheel but in whp terms. i could sure use ctr pulley and lightweight flywheel too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaImportTuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B16A: short 3" intake/4-1 header/60mm exhaust/no cat/fpr/chipped pr3

Dynojet
&lt;--149whp@7700 rpm
&lt;--103wtq

if i had an upgraded TB and AEBS intake manifold. i would seriously be making 160whp 110wtq these ******* are making at flywheel but in whp terms. i could sure use ctr pulley and lightweight flywheel too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was shooting for, but oh well. There is someone on here with a set of 00 GSR cams for sale I'm trying to get right now.

 

if your motor is in fact an auto and your running auto cams swapping them will make a big difference.

i would do a compression and leak down to see how the motor is before i went spending $$$ on cams or other parts.

my b16 with i/h/e made 145hp 105tq

EDIT* made mistake on my actual tq #s. had to check the dyno charts to correct. sorry....


Modified by manson at 10:57 AM 5/13/2005

 

It is in fact auto, it was written in marker on the old flywheel cover

 

Well, found a set of OE GSR cams and alocal guy who wants a LS tranny for his B16, so it will be a strait up tranny trade.