The head i had gotton ripped off when i got it and it has been milled 45 thousands, my machine guy said i would be fine after a thicker head gasket but my question is degreeing the cam a must do kinda thing when you get into this kind of work.
Any help would be appreciated don't want to screw up anything in the head upon installation!!
98 gsr bottom end
gsr head with rev valvetrain
stage 2 skunk2 cams
venom adjustable cam gears

 

A.045 mill will move the cams retarded by about 4 degrees in relation to the crank. You could use the cam gears to move it back to zero if you have the piston to valve clearence to do so. I would start them at +2 +2 and see how it does on the dyno. Adjust them from there.

Degreeing them in with a degree wheel is not 100% necessary but would be nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A.045 mill will move the cams retarded by about 4 degrees in relation to the crank. You could use the cam gears to move it back to zero if you have the piston to valve clearence to do so. I would start them at +2 +2 and see how it does on the dyno. Adjust them from there.

Degreeing them in with a degree wheel is not 100% necessary but would be nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Using a degree wheel is not necessary to get the cam timing back to stock. There are holes in the cams and cam towers/spraybars that line up with each other when the cams are in the proper positions for TDC. You can simply put a cam in position (to where the holes line up), stick a snugly fitting dowel pin into the hole (to lock the cam in position), loosen the adjustable cam sprocket, put the crank to TDC, tighten the cam sprocket, and remove the dowel. This must be done separately for each cam.

 

i found that even after my head was milled .019 and my block decked .029 that when we degreed my cams with a degree wheel the cams were still dead on at 0,0. we did get some belt slop to make it kinda hard to dial them in though. i dont specifically think its gods word to use a degree wheel cause all this talk i found on HT about "for every .010 off the head u will need to advance the cams 1 degree". BS BS BS.

 

I think you would be better-off claying the motor to see what kind of clearance you have, and then tuning the cam timing on a dyno to achieve the desired power band. I would assume that with your setup, dyno tuning was part of the plan anyway, so the only real concern would be the valve/piston clearances to see how much room you have for adjustment.

 

yea thanks for the info. Well what had happened was we had put the head on and just lined up the markings on the cam gears, without doin piston to valve check and the car would drive fine untill vtec and it was like hitting the rev limiter. Apparently that was my valves slapping the pistons slighty. When I pulled the head off the block i noticed some small markings on the top of the pistons. Had my machine guy pull apart the head and had some pretty chewed up valves on the head of them. I think what i am goin to try is get my clearance #'s and get a bigger head gasket even though i don't want to lose the compression you know!! Does anyone think I might be able to get away with advancing or retarding the cams for clearance issues without getting a thicker head gasket?? So you are saying I can line those holes up at tdc to set the cams at 0, then advance/retard from there??
And yes the dyno is a must with this setup, just would like to get the car to run right for the most part before that so i can drive it to and from work to do a mild break in on everything.

 

if you have to use a thicker headgasket, maybe getting some flat faced vavles will help increase your compression a lil

 

Yea thats another option i could throw in, but at the same time I'm not goin to be driving the car like it's a full blown race car like other dumbasses, i just want my coupe thats clean to drive to work, but yet still have the extra kick to it for when i see other ******* trying to rev their motors you know??
so do you think i would be alright lining up those holes in the cams and dialing from there until i get to a dyno, my problem was that i couldn't hit vtec right, it made this god awful sound which turned out to be the valves, Im just trying to figure out the safest way to get this thing runnin without hurting another valve or anything for that matter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blowme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im just trying to figure out the safest way to get this thing runnin without hurting another valve or anything for that matter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As I said, the safest method would be to clay the motor to determine how much clearance you have, and then you'll know exactly how much adjustment range you have for the cam timing.

 

You should always degree in the cams if they are aftermarket. That's why they supply a timing card.

 

Thats one of my problems too I didn't get a timing card, I had called skunk 2 and they faxed over the spec sheet with lift and duration on it, but that wasn't any help
then I found out that the cams need to be degreed to a 104 degree centerline, according to skunk

 

i dont' what to thread jack but what do kit do you guys use to degree the cams?

 

^^ I use the Snap On kit. I know its not the greatest, but it gets the job done.

IMHO it is 100% worth it to degree the cam ANY time you put a new one it....regardless of decking or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ I use the Snap On kit. I know its not the greatest, but it gets the job done.

IMHO it is 100% worth it to degree the cam ANY time you put a new one it....regardless of decking or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what kit do you reccomend?

 

The guy at my machine shop has one for v8's, are they any different or can i use that one??

 

summit has some kits, anyone has any experience with it?