Help with Toe Adjustment bolt 88 CRX Si !!!
I am trying to remove the compensator arm to replace the 17 year old bushings, I am down to the passenger side rear. Everything else came off without much drama, EXCEPT the bolt in the compensator arm that adjusts the toe. I have broke it loose and have backed it out some, but now it just spins
Here is a pic of the offending bolt (not my car, I found this in another unrelated thread)

TIA!!!
Put a screw driver or pry bar into either the bracket of under the edge of the bolt head to keep a laod on the extended bot. There is a loose but captured nut on the back side of the bolt that must be spinning. It needs to be loose so it and the bolt can slide back and forth in the slot to make your toe adjustment. Do what you can to pull the bolt head toward you to reduce the blind nut from turning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put a screw driver or pry bar into either the bracket of under the edge of the bolt head to keep a laod on the extended bot. There is a loose but captured nut on the back side of the bolt that must be spinning. It needs to be loose so it and the bolt can slide back and forth in the slot to make your toe adjustment. Do what you can to pull the bolt head toward you to reduce the blind nut from turning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm tried that with a small screwdriver, Im going to try that with a pickle fork and see what happens.
Is there any access to the sliding nut from the INSIDE?
Hmmm tried that with a small screwdriver, Im going to try that with a pickle fork and see what happens.
Is there any access to the sliding nut from the INSIDE?
I had the same problem (driver's side) on my CRX.
I ultimately ended up drilling a hole from the inside to create an access hole to get to the badly rusted-on nut. Bit of a pita...... but whatever else you do, you may end up losign the nut inside the closed portion, regardless.
Jon
I ultimately ended up drilling a hole from the inside to create an access hole to get to the badly rusted-on nut. Bit of a pita...... but whatever else you do, you may end up losign the nut inside the closed portion, regardless.
Jon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon Nelson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem (driver's side) on my CRX.
I ultimately ended up drilling a hole from the inside to create an access hole to get to the badly rusted-on nut. Bit of a pita...... but whatever else you do, you may end up losign the nut inside the closed portion, regardless.
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, yup, yup! Been there, done that. Took a 3" hole saw, drilled a nice little access hole from the inside of the car, clamped on a pair of vice grips, loosened the bolt, bent the tabs back into shape to capture the nut properly, and zipped it all back together with some anti-seize. Then just duct taped the hole shut.
I ultimately ended up drilling a hole from the inside to create an access hole to get to the badly rusted-on nut. Bit of a pita...... but whatever else you do, you may end up losign the nut inside the closed portion, regardless.
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, yup, yup! Been there, done that. Took a 3" hole saw, drilled a nice little access hole from the inside of the car, clamped on a pair of vice grips, loosened the bolt, bent the tabs back into shape to capture the nut properly, and zipped it all back together with some anti-seize. Then just duct taped the hole shut.
^^^
Yeah there was a thread a while back where that solution was determined, except I think that guy lost the nut on the other side and it fell somewhere inside the unibody haha.
Yeah there was a thread a while back where that solution was determined, except I think that guy lost the nut on the other side and it fell somewhere inside the unibody haha.
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