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Broken bolt!!

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Old 01-22-2007, 01:59 PM
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Default Broken bolt!!

tryin to put in springs....and broke the bolt where the lca bolts to the wheel bub (to the outside of where the shock bolts on lca) i kinda saw it commin but what are my options now?
Old 01-22-2007, 02:01 PM
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Default Re: Broken bolt!! (EKEJ6)

did the bolt break in the hole or just break? if its broke and you can remove it just replace!!!!!
Old 01-22-2007, 02:09 PM
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Default Re: Broken bolt!! (beaneg6)

naa the head snaped off and the rest of the bolt is still in there..is it drivable?
Old 01-22-2007, 02:11 PM
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Default Re: Broken bolt!! (EKEJ6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKEJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">naa the head snaped off and the rest of the bolt is still in there..is it drivable?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt drive the car, its unsafe... can you see the other side of the bolt? are you able to get anything on it to remove it?
Old 01-22-2007, 02:12 PM
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you can see the other side by about 1/4-1/2" but theres no nut the end of the bolt just tapers to a point
Old 01-22-2007, 02:14 PM
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Get a bolt extractor if it will fit in the bushing hole.
Old 01-22-2007, 02:15 PM
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Default Re: (fizix_skate)

and that would be what?
Old 01-22-2007, 02:19 PM
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Default Re: (EKEJ6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKEJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can see the other side by about 1/4-1/2" but theres no nut the end of the bolt just tapers to a point
</TD></TR></TABLE>

try to get a pair of locking pliers and remove it, or you can drill it out but that might mess up threading...
Old 01-22-2007, 02:19 PM
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These:

AutoZone should have them, even Wal-Mart. You drill a hole in the bolt big enough to fit the extractor tip in. It's reverse threaded so when you are backing the bolt out with a wrench, the extractor digs into the bolt further for a better grip.
Old 01-22-2007, 02:24 PM
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Default Re: (fizix_skate)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fizix_skate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These:

AutoZone should have them, even Wal-Mart. You drill a hole in the bolt big enough to fit the extractor tip in. It's reverse threaded so when you are backing the bolt out with a wrench, the extractor digs into the bolt further for a better grip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that would work also....but i think those are exspensive....
Old 01-22-2007, 02:25 PM
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Like $20 for a set, $4 for a single extractor. You can also get them are hardware stores.
Old 01-22-2007, 02:28 PM
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alright well i got those, and ill go give 'er a whirl and let u guys know what happens
Old 01-22-2007, 02:35 PM
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Most of the time the bolts freeze up in the bushings... so what i did was actually cut the bushing and had a new one pressed in!

Once the bushing is out of the way the rest of the bolt comes out pretty easy

fizix_skate hmmm i'll have to try those extractors next time they just my help to break it loose... have you used them with success???
Old 01-22-2007, 02:37 PM
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Sometimes they work, sometimes they break. With a LCA, they might break. I returned it with no problem. If you ever have a striped head, these work perfect (also reverse "threaded"):
Old 01-22-2007, 02:37 PM
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Default Re: (EKEJ6)

you wont get it out with those..you have to burn out the bushing..the bolts are rusted in there..you need to get new bushing pressed in and new bolts..on the next install lube the bolts with anti seize so they dont rust in there later on..
Old 01-22-2007, 03:06 PM
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Default Re: (k_motor)

psh, he can still try...

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc...h.cfm

Another way, is to find the "square type/non spiral" bolt extractor, not the reverse drilling one..

The steps are the same, drill into the center of the bolt with a bit that is smaller than the bolt...

then tap in the bolt extractor, into that hole that you drilled..

using a "Tap Wrench" try and remove the bolt.

The "square type" bolt extractors are cheaper, and doesn't require a reverse-direction drill.

All the tools that you need you can get at your local sears.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...Value=
Old 01-22-2007, 04:10 PM
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Default Re: (bpr0422)

Alright well i broke the bolt bolting the shock to the lca too LOL....but that has a nut so it slid right out....i still have to atempt to use the bolt extractor (my dads not home with it yet) but now for new bolts....honda dealer and is there a chance that they have them in stock?
Old 01-22-2007, 04:14 PM
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Default Re: (EKEJ6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKEJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright well i broke the bolt bolting the shock to the lca too LOL....but that has a nut so it slid right out....i still have to atempt to use the bolt extractor (my dads not home with it yet) but now for new bolts....honda dealer and is there a chance that they have them in stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

[The Final Word]The bolts snap because they have siezed to the bushings. You need new bolts AND BUSHINGS. This is why - with the ridiculously low price of aftermarket LCAs - I suggest that people get new LCAs when they lower their EGs. $80 shipped for new LCAs or $20/bushing from Honda...hmmmm.[/The Final Word]
Old 01-22-2007, 05:14 PM
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Default Re: (EKEJ6)

Personally, my LCA bolts snapped because I hired idiots to do my shock/spring/polybushing install. They over-torqued every damn bolt. No way the LCA bolts seized to the bushing in less than 7 days, though the real test was that the bushing slid up/down the remaining bolt half just fine.

When you're dealing with rusted bolts they can also seize at the LCA. It's a common practice up here in the rustbelt to angle-grind the welded-on nut off the LCA and install a free-spinning nut in it's place.

Definitely try bolt removers, but that bolt is only held onto the LCA by that welded nut - remove it, and the bolt will be free. I know of suspension shops which immediately jump to this option because it's so quick (unless you goof and cut the LCA, then it's not so quick), but I'd only do it as a last resort.

As for whether the Honda dealer will have a replacement bolt in stock - you can bet on it. When Honda replaces shocks they snap these all the time. They also use the same spec bolts across a ton of models, they don't have a different bolt for every model.
Old 01-22-2007, 05:19 PM
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Default Re: (Archidictus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

[The Final Word]The bolts snap because they have siezed to the bushings. You need new bolts AND BUSHINGS. This is why - with the ridiculously low price of aftermarket LCAs - I suggest that people get new LCAs when they lower their EGs. $80 shipped for new LCAs or $20/bushing from Honda...hmmmm.[/The Final Word]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, seriously, my friend just snapped the same bolt on his legacy.

They always screw up & the head snaps off .
Old 01-22-2007, 05:30 PM
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This will always be a problem, honda used a really shitty composite for lubing the bolts, so they always rust in there, and 99% of the time people snap the heads off the bolts. when you replace the new bolt use antiseize on them so you dont run into the same problem later on. You can use many of the different techniques people have previously listed, but usually when it comes down to it, you have to burn out the bushing. Alot of aftermarket support for the bushings you can obtain new ones very cheap.
Old 01-27-2007, 10:01 PM
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Default Re: (lsjon)

those seized bolt WILL NOT come out even if u try that bolt extractor..either new LCA's or new bushing..carefull no to break the other bolt when taking off the LCA's..
Old 01-27-2007, 10:26 PM
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Default Re: Broken bolt!! (EKEJ6)

I just add a nice coat of rust inhibtor to the bottom of my car that is self applying simply by creating strategic oil leaks from the valve cover, oil pan and rear main. Works wonders and you never need to change the oil. Just keep adding. Helps prevent broken bolts and also keeps my driveway from rusting.

But seriously, the guys your paying to strip/crossthread bolts on any type of work on your vehicle should be taken out back and beaten. My buddy has a set of MAC tools 1/2" impacts and his smallest socket is 10MM. Very unneccessary but it's worth the ***** and giggles we get out of using it.
Old 01-27-2007, 10:49 PM
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^^ure second paragraph made no sense at all. but to the OP i would go get some of those craftsman extractors bc from what i can tell they are really good quality steel and shouldnt break compared to other brands.
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