For some reason i'm stumped, this is on my wifes built lsvtec 96 integra using a p28 and neptuned. The car runs and drives great. But usually when we start it up cold, it will run for a few seconds and the idle will drop and the car dies, then i restart it up and it will run but the idle will go up and down from 1600 to 700 untill it warms up and then it stays at 900 which it should. After driving around when we come to a idle the idle starts to bounce from 1000 to 300 and stalls once in a while.
It bounces about 50 % of the time. I tried cleaning out the iacv, No vacuum leak and it did the same thing when we had the obd2 gsr ecu as well. The motor by the way has about 1000 miles on it, no leaks good compression. And it did do this before we put a new set of rings and bearings also. Any advice will be appreciated.


Modified by 9sech22civic at 8:02 PM 5/9/2005

 

I would check either your idle air control valve or your fast idle valve. You need to get some kind of helms manual to show you how to do the diagnostic procedures, good luck.

 

yes,your fast idle valve

it is in your throttle body

 

will try to clean it tonight.

 

u need to tighten it down

 

There is no ficv on this setup, any other ideas?

 

ttt

 

Night bump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9sech22civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no ficv on this setup, any other ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>The job of the FITV was built into the AICV. You've already cleaned that out, so it's not that simple. The AICV can go bad anyway, regardless of being clean, then it's action isn't smooth & it does this.

Air bubbles in the cooling system? Vacuum leaks? Make sure you check for that, but I think those would continue to screw up the idle after it's warmed up.

 

same thing happened to my H22, and I reset my ecu and it instantly fixed it. All I did was pull the fuse for a few minutes and plugged it back in

 

Good thought... Some years they supposedly 're-learn' how to idle after setting base idle.

Warm up the engine completely, turn off ALL external loads. Unplug IACV, that'll make it want to stall. Carefully let the rpm drop, & use the idle-adjust screw in the throttlebody to adjust for 450 or 500 rpm. Turn off & plug in the IACV.

Now pull the fuse or battery cable or whatever to reset the ECU. Start the engine without touching the gas pedal. Let it idle for several minutes without loads, without touching the gas pedal at all.

BTW, got a plug-in tach? When you're trying to set 450 base idle, the car's tach is notoriously inaccurate trying to read that low.

 

Already tried it. It started to act up, when the oil pan was oil tapped too low and oil was backed up into the turbo thus feeding oil residual through the ic piping. tried spraying out the iacv but looks like i might get a new one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9sech22civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... on my wifes built lsvtec 96 integra using a p28...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9sech22civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and oil was backed up into the turbo thus feeding oil residual through the ic piping...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So now it's got a turbocharger??

Check the FI forum. Maybe they've run across something like this. I imagine the control logic driving the IACV doesn't take into account the delayed action of turbo & wastegate? But I'm only guessing there.