What the most aggressive cam profile i could throw into a d16a6 with 8:1 je pistons, cm stage 2 clutch, and a slew of minor bolt-ons...like underdrive pulleys, etc...? And where can i get it. I dont care about idle, but it is also a daily driver who likes to take it to 8k rpm alot. hehe

 

why is your compression so low if you want allmotor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is your compression so low if you want allmotor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same thing. Aggressive cam profiles love high compression and you will get the most benefit if you go with higher compression. For a cam I would go with a custom grind from delta or a race cam from webcam.

http://www.deltacam.com

http://www.webcamshafts.com

 

tis the way i bought it, had turbo on it originally, but the bastard took it off before selling it to me. I know putting high comp back in it would be more less costly, but I run the crap out of it, have buried the tach past 8k before, i think it hit around 9?!

 

What ecu are you running? Either way, I think I'm going to go ahead and call bullshit.

 

**** homie you stupid or what? Slap on some noz you bet set. Get some octane boost wit some nos and your *** would be pushin 10's, get a front lip a strut bar and some springs and you might be pushin 9's if you runnin steelies. But **** homie hit me up.

Hit me up...Peace

Thizanks_Luke

 

WHAT THE ****...... ^^^^

 

The ecu i was told from the previous owner is an si unit that was chipped out by hondata. Anyway, Nos is illegal to have hooked up in my state on the road... i dont need that added on next time i get pulled over.

I know nos is a brand, but if the previous owner used a turbo, then whats wrong with hondata? He was using a t3/t4 kit from hks.

this noobie **** sucks i have to edit the damn thing now... what do you suggest, aggressive turbo specs for the cam and then a t25 from a mitsu boosted to 14.7? I want as little turbo lag as possible (its street dammit, not track).


Modified by crx1racing at 9:30 PM 5/8/2005

So, if i boosted it that way, i should just buy a cam designed for the amount of boost?


Modified by crx1racing at 9:55 PM 5/8/2005

 

hondata huh? not very useful without a turbo.

N.O.S. is a Brand name.

Put a turbo on... don't bother w/ a new cam.

 

^ This guys gay dont listen to him

Find a cam that'll best compliment a turbo setup. That'll help u for now with a lil more power, then boost it and lay the smack down

 

^ this guy smells x2

Cam compliment a turbo? few and far between. To address the original question. u don't want an agressive cam. Too much overlap is no good w/ boost.

 

well, powerful n/a cams have a lot of overlap, which is part of the reason why they run like **** on idle.

but on a turbo, you don't want overlap.

tamer cams usually perform a lot better than n/a performance cams. so yeah, listen to 89sipimpin, maybe get one that has more lift, but not a lot of overlap. plus, don't expect to make much horsepower out of a n/a 8:1 motor.

 

Obd0, Hondata, and a d16a6 that revs past 8k... Even if you could get it up to 9, it wouldn't last very long with the stock valvetrain, so again, I call bullshit. If the guy took the turbo off, why the hell wouldn't he take the Hondata ecu? 9k bah...

 

****** critical bastard! The guy bought a ****** rx8! How the **** was he suspose to put a hondata ecu on that?!

Plus I dont know if the valvetrain is stock, I would guess so since he didnt say anything, on top of things you failed to read what i wrote, i said that i HAVE hit around 9k, i didnt say i shift it at 9k all the time, usually when i feel like it which happens alot, i go to 8. I wasnt listening to the motor and instead had the subs blastin. the only reason i didnt blow the damn thing was because i felt a loss of power at the end of the powerband and looked down at the tach. the car doesnt have a rev limiter on it so screw you go stick a thumbful of peanut butter up your ***...maybe it will ease the pain of being such a ****** retarded ***!

 

save some money and throw together a junkyard turbo setup, and stop overreving ur motor

 

Damn straight I'm critical. It doesn't matter what he bought, it would have made more sense to keep the Hondata and the turbo together to sell as a kit. He's going to need a bigger turbo for that 2.6l if that is what he intends to do with it. You should have felt a power loss at about 7500. Keep on pushing it buddy, and see if those subs cover the sound of the pistons chewing up a valve after a retainer breaks...

 

And before any of you start jumping on me about how the Rx8 is a 1.3L twin rotor god, you can burn in hell with the Mazda retards for their stupidity. Whens the last time you seen a NA 1.3L make 250 estimated hp, and get 18 mpg city? Riddle me that...

 

man it looks like a ****** girls locker room here...too much bitchin
anyways i'd go with the turbo, seems like the smartest/most effective upgrade for your baby, and when the setup is right and you feel like you want more hp then you should go for the cam.... and who gives a **** what the previous owner did...maybe he took only the turbo so he can put it on his lawn mower or moped or somethin...

 

Not really bitching. I called bs, he responded. In all honesty, it started as me thinking he would slap a valve, I forgot about the low comp pistons. It's still not safe to rev to 9k... EVER, until the head is worked. Like I said, you're bound to lose a retainer if you keep doing it. That's valid input. I was drunk last night, so I'll be a little nicer today. First things first, do a compression test to make sure you didn't **** anything up. Then sell those subs and buy a junkyard turbo if everything is in order. What about the fuel pump and injectors? Did the previous owner do anything there? I think I would have the fuel cut put back on there, just in case you get gas happy again, because there really is no power to be made past 8k on an A6, and the R/S ratio will make sure it shakes itself apart. There's no sense in even thinking about going NA with those pistons in there.

 

He's right. Forced induction systems require low compression. If you're going NA then you'd need high compression of which your pistons don't support. The cam might help if you had maybe a slight advance, but anything more than that would cause overlap.

 

Of course I responded, you should ask someone if something was done to the car first before calling bullshit. I called the guy last night due to you, you should feel good that you rattled my brain that much, but anyways he came to my house with a stck of reciepts. in that stack was some engine parts. Listed are Msd spark plug wires, MSD Ignition module, Chikara headers, A'Pexi exhaust, Eagle connecting rods, JE Pistons, AEM Cam Gear, Unorthodox Underdrive pulley kit, Fluidyne Radiator, AEM Short Ram Intake, BBK 255lph Fuel pump, B&M Short shifter, Clutch Master stage 2, B&M fuel flow modifier, Crower Titanium valves/retainers/springs, and he also told me that it had mitsu eclipse injectors and fuel rail. So I dont think my engine is going to blow up anytime soon...hopefully

 

im not even gonna read this whole thing and just recomend you put a turbo on that **** and call it a day.

 

Yeah, instead of spending 300+ on the cam, just get a nice snail and stick on there. Good that you got those papers too, hold on to them.

 

A far better option would be to sell the forged pistons, then use the money to buy stock a6 pistons (they're flattop, iirc, highest comp for the a6) and a mini-me swap. Or...part out the a6 goodies and just get a d16z6 outright. I'd also like to take a second to remark how poor of a decision the previous owner did in buying 8:1 pistons. Factory turbo cars come with lower compression between 8-9:1 because they don't want people to break motors due to running 50k miles w/o a dead-on tune. People are running over 10:1 with hondas (stock parts) for thousands of miles with a turbo. A lower comp also means that weak factory boost levels feel stronger

My opinion is that if a performance part isn't used to 75% of it's capacity, it's money wasted. Forged pistons in N/A hondas is useless besides dailing in a certain CR. You're not going to get much at all from an a6 cam, since the cam really isn't the bottleneck. The money and time involved in a cam swap would come close to a mini-me swap, although you'd get more power in the end with the vtec head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h8tred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And before any of you start jumping on me about how the Rx8 is a 1.3L twin rotor god, you can burn in hell with the Mazda retards for their stupidity. Whens the last time you seen a NA 1.3L make 250 estimated hp, and get 18 mpg city? Riddle me that...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So Mazda is retarded because they get 250hp out of 1.3L? Ever seen the torque on a rotary engine?
I'm pretty sure that Mazda knows how to measure displacement on their own engine.


Your engine is prime for a turbo. JE pistons and Eagle rods means you can boost that thing to 15psi with a good tune. Get the snail back on there and quit worrying about cams.