...was just looking at 90blackcrx's post about the downpipe he made.i'm bored,so i figured i'd post some pics of an EF/B16 turbo kit i just made.this is my first kit for an EF(others have all been EG/EK/DC chassis).space is definitely at a premium in these cars with a B-series motor.

V-band outlet.homemade 3" to 2.5" cone,to 2.5" downpipe.crossmember wouldn't allow 3" the whole way. extra bung for wideband tuning(he's going with the EMS).Y-pipe to QTEC electric cutout.



one of the charge pipes with welds ground smooth and painted:


this is the best pic i have of it finished.retained full width rad.SSAC mani,Greddy BOV,Tial WG,T3/T4,i fabbed everything else.


a pic of the car.it's real POS


before this gets to be like 90blackcrx's post,i know my welds suck.any constructive criticism is very welcome.i've got plenty of stuff i've welded up to two years ago still running around with no problems.still not confident enough to do any safety related,load bearing fab-i'd rather your motor blow up than you wreck because i f'd up a weld

thanks for looking
Chris

 

it looks good esp. once you ground it down and painted it, as long as you got as little weld inside the pipes as you could, so theres no impedence of flow they should work great (of course theyd still work with slag in there, just not optimally). im not feeling the orange wheels on the red crx, i usually like different things that arent jdmish and stuff, its just an odd combination i guess, its still a super clean rex though....but thats appearance forum talk....my bad...good work on the piping though

 

omg those wheels are ******* hideous!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MajorPayne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks good esp. once you ground it down and painted it, as long as you got as little weld inside the pipes as you could, so theres no impedence of flow they should work great (of course theyd still work with slag in there, just not optimally). im not feeling the orange wheels on the red crx, i usually like different things that arent jdmish and stuff, its just an odd combination i guess, its still a super clean rex though....but thats appearance forum talk....my bad...good work on the piping though </TD></TR></TABLE>
the welds are about 99% penetration-i think they'll be fine after being ground down.i've always done all visible welds on charge pipe like that and never had a problem.on the second DP pic,you can see the inside,where one of the welds are to get an idea of the penetration.
the car is a hunk of chit.he bought the car hit in the front for $100-hence the primered hood and bumper.he got the wheels for a smokin deal.he doen't care at all what the car looks like-he thinks the wheels are funny i begged him to at least paint them a better color.
Chris

 

Noticed on your UICP theres no beads/lip for your couplers, might wanna look into that.

 

Nice cutout... I love mine on my WRX.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">before this gets to be like 90blackcrx's post,i know my welds suck.any </TD></TR></TABLE>

So what are you trying to say.................. Oh no you..... jk

Looks good , and who cares how the rex looks, as long as it moves right, and moves pretty dam fast.

 

no flexpipe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2turbo_terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Noticed on your UICP theres no beads/lip for your couplers, might wanna look into that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have taken care of that since the pics.right now i just turn the heat up and quickly lay a bead about 2" long in four spots along the edge of the pipe to make "lips" that are about 1/32" tall.works well so far.i'd love to actually put a rolled lip on there-any suggestions on a cheap way to do it?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtremeazian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no flexpipe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the flexpipe is directly after the flange on the midpipe.i had no choice in where to put the Y-pipe,as there's only enough room under the car for the cutout right where i have it.i could have maybe fit a short flexpipe between the tab that bolts to the brace behind the oilpan and the Y-pipe,but it would have caused problems with fitting the three O2 bungs-i have to have them before the Y-pipe so that the wideband can get a reading of the full exhaust flow regardless of whether the cutout is open or not.on my car i had the O2 bungs after my cutout(i added the cutout after making the DP),and the dyno was getting a funky reading with the cutout open.....anyways,on the other downpipes i've made,i try to put a flexpipe right after the oilpan brace so that it's inline with where the motor rotates when torquing.
Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have taken care of that since the pics.right now i just turn the heat up and quickly lay a bead about 2" long in four spots along the edge of the pipe to make "lips" that are about 1/32" tall.works well so far.i'd love to actually put a rolled lip on there-any suggestions on a cheap way to do it?


the flexpipe is directly after the flange on the midpipe.i had no choice in where to put the Y-pipe,as there's only enough room under the car for the cutout right where i have it.i could have maybe fit a short flexpipe between the tab that bolts to the brace behind the oilpan and the Y-pipe,but it would have caused problems with fitting the three O2 bungs-i have to have them before the Y-pipe so that the wideband can get a reading of the full exhaust flow regardless of whether the cutout is open or not.on my car i had the O2 bungs after my cutout(i added the cutout after making the DP),and the dyno was getting a funky reading with the cutout open.....anyways,on the other downpipes i've made,i try to put a flexpipe right after the oilpan brace so that it's inline with where the motor rotates when torquing.
Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i hear you. It was a tight *** fit getting my flex pipe and y pipe to fit with my downpipe. No room at all. Anyways, its looking good.

 

Oh... what metal is the Y pipe made out of.. painted SS or mild steel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InfamousDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh... what metal is the Y pipe made out of.. painted SS or mild steel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's mild steel.
Chris