Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

F23A4 vs. F23A1

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Old May 6, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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Default F23A4 vs. F23A1

For the record, does the F23A4 (ULEV-VTEC) found in 98-02 Accords have weaker internals than the F23A1 (VTEC)? A few people have helped me in the past about this however I don't want to run into any problems if I decide to boost. I really just need a concise and correct answer, I plan on spending a lot of money on this car and if the engine cannot handle 8-10PSI, like the F23A1, for 50-60k miles then I'm just going to get a 98+ H22. Thanks guys
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Old May 6, 2005 | 11:45 AM
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Default Re: F23A4 vs. F23A1 (Corruption)

The internals are teh same. However they probably won't last 50-60k miles due to the weak ring landings. They tend to give out pretty quikly if the engine is pushed hard or driven hard even on low boost. I would either go forged internals or swap to the H22 if you plan on it on it lasting that long.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Default Re: F23A4 vs. F23A1 (Turbowa)

An H22 (stock internals) will not last at 8+ psi either.... just build whatever engine you choose to run, IMO. My F23 experience has not been good at high boost/horsepower, however there are members here and elsewhere who have run for a long time at 6-8 psi on F23's. It's just too easy to turn the boost up, you WILL want to after a while. I guarantee it.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 06:22 PM
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heh, thanks for the advice. What would you recommend I do in terms of internals. Should I go about getting some new rings, pistons, cams, etc? Additionally, are you guys sure that the two engines have the same internals? Thanks
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Old May 6, 2005 | 06:30 PM
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Default Re: (Corruption)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heh, thanks for the advice. What would you recommend I do in terms of internals. Should I go about getting some new rings, pistons, cams, etc? Additionally, are you guys sure that the two engines have the same internals? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Crower makes rods, ROSS makes pistons, OEM bearings. That's all you need. Oh, and a shop to do it for you, deep pockets help as well.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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lol, thanks....so basically this would be a good start to get a strong engine for boost?
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Old May 6, 2005 | 06:45 PM
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Default Re: (Corruption)

Pretty much, the bottom end is where most people start when beefing up a turbo engine/motor/car what have you.

If you really wanna be baller, do that and switch to OBD1, AEM EMS w/ a P28.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 07:01 PM
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So if the internals are the same then why are the horsepower ratings the same? 148HP and 148tq for the F23A4, and 152 and 152 for the F23A1. I'm pretty sure.....
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Old May 6, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Default Re: (Corruption)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if the internals are the same then why are the horsepower ratings the same? 148HP and 148tq for the F23A4, and 152 and 152 for the F23A1. I'm pretty sure.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably honda just tune down the ECU, they wouldn't spend a sh-tload of work and money to redo the last f series sohc(knowning the K serie is coming up, and the f series are out for a 10+year)

as far as i know, ULEV f23a4 only availble on emission **** state(cough cali)..cough
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Old May 7, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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Default Re: (BlkChryKord)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlkChryKord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you really wanna be baller, do that and switch to OBD1, AEM EMS w/ a P28.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you just recommended way too much, no need for OBD1 & P28 if you get the AEM EMS, and vice versa.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if the internals are the same then why are the horsepower ratings the same? 148HP and 148tq for the F23A4, and 152 and 152 for the F23A1. I'm pretty sure.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
the difference is in the exhaust manifold. the a4 has a more restrictive exhaust manifold. It's 150 hp for the a1 and 148 for the a4. really no difference in the motor itself that I'm aware of.
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Old May 7, 2005 | 09:44 AM
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i think ULEV runs a little leaner, too, and the EGR is probably different. don't quote me though. I have a ULEV accord out here in western MA anyhow. still gets me around fun and comfortably.

oh, and i'm not sure how much timing is on the F23A1s, but the F23A4s are hitting about 16 degrees after TDC. might be that late simply because they're running lean, but then again it could just be an F23A trait.


Modified by PHREAK at 7:02 PM 5/7/2005
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Old May 7, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you just recommended way too much, no need for OBD1 & P28 if you get the AEM EMS, and vice versa.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Notice those 6 words before that? That's not really recomending too much b/c I didn't recommend he do it I just said if he really wanted to get into it he could do other mods as well. I know you could use either one but I just put them there for reference.
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Old May 8, 2005 | 06:24 AM
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So it's all based on the ECU pretty much?
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