So I've owned my crx for around 5k miles. My step dad got the oil changed at Jiffy Lube a while back, and we got the mailed reminder to go back. However, I dont wanna pick up the rediculous tab for someone to change my oil. I can't find my jack in the mess I call a garage, but I heard that changing the oil in crxs is hard due to where the cap is under the car. Any pics available of where it is?

 

The cap as in the drain bolt or the fill bolt? The drain you can't miss it and you sure as hell can't miss the fill on the top. Now the filter may be a little harder to find if it is black and you have a mess in your bay and the hood is closed (a series of events that wont happen), again, Piece of Cake location, just look straight above your header downpipe.

 

Its really easy. Just jack the car up:unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the oil pan,
let the oil drain out then take off the oil filter then put a new one on then put the screw back in the oil pan then fill her up with oil and then lower her back down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFcivicHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its really easy. Just jack the car up:unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the oil pan,
let the oil drain out then take off the oil filter then put a new one on then put the screw back in the oil pan then fill her up with oil and then lower her back down </TD></TR></TABLE>

easy as pie. just dont double gasket your oil filter. that is a

 

Yeah the oil filters usually come with a gasket. Just rub some oil on the gasket also before you put it on. oh and only tighten it with your hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKPX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

easy as pie. just dont double gasket your oil filter. that is a </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to change oils at pep boys for all kinds of cars. What the hell does double gasketing mean?

I remember on old mercedes cars I would have to replace the 'o ring' gasket around where the oil filter was held. If I am thinking of what you mean, than that should be very hard to do on hondas.

Back to topic: Make sure it has 3.6 Quarts of oil. 5w30 I believe, but it might be 10w30, I forgot, Ill have to check and make sure. I put 20w50 in my car anyway. Before you start it up, make sure the oil light goes away, then start it up and run it for 15 seconds, then check to oil level to make sure it is inbetween the 2 dots on the dipstick.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Now im just looking on input as to what oil/filter to use. Dont wanna go dwon to Kragens and buy something known to crap out or **** something up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mach69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I used to change oils at pep boys for all kinds of cars. What the hell does double gasketing mean?

</TD></TR></TABLE>That is the notorious Honda phenomenon where the old gasket will come off the old filter and stick to the oil cooler. The unsuspecting person just slaps on the new filter, fires up the car and *BAM*! there is a puddle of oil under your car. Just inspect your old filter and wipe down the oil cooler mating surface(or block if you don't have one) where it contacs the filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1boostedhybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is the notorious Honda phenomenon where the old gasket will come off the old filter and stick to the oil cooler. The unsuspecting person just slaps on the new filter, fires up the car and *BAM*! there is a puddle of oil under your car. Just inspect your old filter and wipe down the oil cooler mating surface(or block if you don't have one) where it contacs the filter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

O-I-C, I had the same question. I would say prime your filter too, fill it up with fresh oil before you put it on, don't top it off though or you'll make a mess. Also what does 20w-50 do that 10w-30 doesn't?

 

filter is a filter. no need to go get a " MUGEN OIL FILTER " go to kragen its under 5 bux. and remember to condition "O" ring on the filter wit oil, Hand tighten filter on. for the drain plug dont strip it its easly striped just dont torque it on to hard. and like what Mach69 said make sure you run it for 15 sec at about 3k, you wanna build up that oil pressure to check if you got your self a leak. and to also check your level correctly . good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwissChEz82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does 20w-50 do that 10w-30 doesn't?</TD></TR></TABLE>its not what it will or wont do. 20w-50 is super thick, IMO way too thick for a little 4 cyl. that oil is made for diesels and big displacement motors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91BlueCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the help guys. Now im just looking on input as to what oil/filter to use. Dont wanna go dwon to Kragens and buy something known to crap out or **** something up</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go to Autozone and pick up some 0w-30 German Castrol Syntec (bottle says Made in Germany), when used with a quality oil filter, you can run 7500 mile OCIs no problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan89crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not what it will or wont do. 20w-50 is super thick, IMO way too thick for a little 4 cyl. that oil is made for diesels and big displacement motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My dad has some lying around for his GTI, so instead of buying other oil, I just use the 20w50. Hasn't hurt my past engine, because I know my dad put 20w50 into my d15b1 the entire 140000 miles, and that engine was fine.

 

you are gonna need a 3593a oil filter if you get the orange one. and its all really easy on most hondas. i worked at Jiffy lube and could cange the oil on hondas in uncer 5 minutes. Now at home it takes about 15 minutes.

 

lol. the tools at home and at a shop are kinda different

 

good call ^^^ i'd invest in a set of tool anyways

 

far too much talking going on about oil changes. jesus

lets make it as easy as possible:

use the recommended oil type.

Use a good filter.

process: drain the oil out. Replace drain plug. Remove old filter, grease up new one, put on new one. Open fill cap and fill up oil to recommended level.

nuff said.

 

the meaning of multiviscoity oils

10w-30
5w-20
etc.

it means the oil will flow like 10 weight during winter(hence the W) and flow like 30 during summer

 

You also should buy a filter wrench, it will make taking off the oil filter soooooooooo much easier and they are like 5-7 bucks.

For Oil filters i like to use Napa Gold or the K&N series. Dont buy a super cheap oil filter, it wont protect your engine as well, and a good oil filter is like 10 bucks tops. It is worth the peace of mind

 

and replace ur drain plug gasket if its leaking

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1boostedhybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is the notorious Honda phenomenon where the old gasket will come off the old filter and stick to the oil cooler. The unsuspecting person just slaps on the new filter, fires up the car and *BAM*! there is a puddle of oil under your car. Just inspect your old filter and wipe down the oil cooler mating surface(or block if you don't have one) where it contacs the filter. </TD></TR></TABLE>


that so happened to me when i did my first oil change one the honda, its a higf milage motor so i used some lucas oil in it too, boy was i pissed when all the oil came pouring out.

 

My steps, always make sure your car is cold and hasn't been driven for atleast 15-20 minutes and that the car is on a solid flat surface that you don't mind spilling some oil on.

1) Jack car up and place saftey jacks in appropriate locations.
2) Find a closable container for the old oil and place beneath oil pan, specifically the drainage bolt[17mm btw.]
3) Remove engine oil cap from valve cover and pull dipstick[because I'm wierd like that]
4) Lay beneath front of vehicle and using a 17mm socket or wrench loosen the drainage plug until you are able to finger loosen/tighten.
5) Slowly loosen drainage plug to last threads[you'll notice the oil is now seeping out gradually] and then pull plug away allowing oil to freely fall into the container
6) Drink acohol [preferable Corona/Tecate]
7) Once oil has stopped flowing[may still drop a droplet here and there but thats fine. Reach up behind the block and beneath the intake manifold you will see your oil filter.
8) Slowly unscrew oil filter[Might be a good idea to invest in a good set of gloves/special oil filter wrench since this thing is usually slippery. The filter will spew some oil and let some drip onto your block.
9) Wipe away excess oil from back of block/oil pan drain plug area.
10) Put drain plug back in on oil pan, rub some of the new oil onto the gasket on the new oil filter and place it on the back of the block HAND TIGHT. No need for hulk hogans here, just simply tighten it until its snug[the gasket will seat as the pressure/heat of your oil build over time]
11) Now put into the valve cover oil hole 3 quarts of your perferred oil [ I perfer Castrol GTX 10w30 because a good oil needs no additives..]
12) Drop car and pour another half quart. Clean off your dipstick and slide it into its place for a few seconds, then pull out. Check how far the oil is from bottom to top. Should just be clearing the bottom dot/line/hole/base mark. Slowly and carefully add a few oz's of oil at a time and check the dip [clean before check of course] until you reach the half way mark.
13) Replace valve cover oil cap, allow car to warm up to operating temp and take out for a spin[unless you have been kicking back Coronas and Tecates and you want a DUI and possibly your/someone elses' death on your shoulders]
14) Enjoy a job thoroughly well done. - Darrell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Floored &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You also should buy a filter wrench, it will make taking off the oil filter soooooooooo much easier and they are like 5-7 bucks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

or if youre desperate and dont have any tools, just jam your screwdriver into the side of the oil filter and use it as a lever lol

 

its not sad youre seeking oil change advice, we all gotta learn somewhere.

 

This is pretty much how I do it except one step:

Between steps 7 and 8 - once the oil has stopped flowing, I take a rag, put it around the air nozzel on the end of the compressor hose and then blow air through the oil fill hole. (have an old rag or towel or something under the car to catch the oil because it now has air forcing it out as opposed to just gravity and it's going to spray a bit and get a little messy.

Yeah, I know it's **** to do all that and it takes a little more time but you would be surprised at how much MORE oil comes out doing this. The upside of course is my oil stays clean for much longer and it's that much less dirt/whatever that's circulating in my engine.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCZCCRXSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My steps, always make sure your car is cold and hasn't been driven for atleast 15-20 minutes and that the car is on a solid flat surface that you don't mind spilling some oil on.

1) Jack car up and place saftey jacks in appropriate locations.
2) Find a closable container for the old oil and place beneath oil pan, specifically the drainage bolt[17mm btw.]
3) Remove engine oil cap from valve cover and pull dipstick[because I'm wierd like that]
4) Lay beneath front of vehicle and using a 17mm socket or wrench loosen the drainage plug until you are able to finger loosen/tighten.
5) Slowly loosen drainage plug to last threads[you'll notice the oil is now seeping out gradually] and then pull plug away allowing oil to freely fall into the container
6) Drink acohol [preferable Corona/Tecate]
7) Once oil has stopped flowing[may still drop a droplet here and there but thats fine. Reach up behind the block and beneath the intake manifold you will see your oil filter.
8) Slowly unscrew oil filter[Might be a good idea to invest in a good set of gloves/special oil filter wrench since this thing is usually slippery. The filter will spew some oil and let some drip onto your block.
9) Wipe away excess oil from back of block/oil pan drain plug area.
10) Put drain plug back in on oil pan, rub some of the new oil onto the gasket on the new oil filter and place it on the back of the block HAND TIGHT. No need for hulk hogans here, just simply tighten it until its snug[the gasket will seat as the pressure/heat of your oil build over time]
11) Now put into the valve cover oil hole 3 quarts of your perferred oil [ I perfer Castrol GTX 10w30 because a good oil needs no additives..]
12) Drop car and pour another half quart. Clean off your dipstick and slide it into its place for a few seconds, then pull out. Check how far the oil is from bottom to top. Should just be clearing the bottom dot/line/hole/base mark. Slowly and carefully add a few oz's of oil at a time and check the dip [clean before check of course] until you reach the half way mark.
13) Replace valve cover oil cap, allow car to warm up to operating temp and take out for a spin[unless you have been kicking back Coronas and Tecates and you want a DUI and possibly your/someone elses' death on your shoulders]
14) Enjoy a job thoroughly well done. - Darrell</TD></TR></TABLE>