I just got my motor back from being built by earl, and I also have installed a quaife and an RPS 440tq clutch, and I need to break everything in before i boost it, and what I want to do is put the stock injectors in and take the wastegate spring out, so I can drive 300 or so miles to break everything in, because I want to have the initail break in done with the stock injectors as opposed to having an untuned basemap with untuned 880cc's for fear of washing the cylinders, so the question is: Will I be okay to drive with the stock injectors and no wastegate spring for 300 or so miles until i can get it broke in and tuned, and can i be garanteed that the car will not boost, so I can drive the car hard and follow the appropriate break in procedure? thanks guys.

 

would like to kno also. What about the new clutch? How can i drive hard and break in the motor w/ a brand new clutch

 

tow it to your tuner and break it in on the dyno

 

When I broke in my motor i made it as breath as stock as possible. Meaning I just had parts which made the motor stronger. I kept the Cam stock, just aftermarket valves, springs retainers. The bottom end had stronger pistons and rods but it was the stock compression ratio. And the bore was only .5 over. This allowed me to break the car in with stock ecu and injectors. Although I had a wideband to closely monitor my A/F.

If you have something like a LS/Vtec or bored over to like 84mm or a drastically different compression ratio. I would highly recommend you strap the turbo on and tow that bitch to the nearest tuner and break that thing in on the dyno.

If the motor breaths like a stock motor with stronger parts I don't see why you couldn't break it in with stock ECU and injectors but keep the turbo off. I would highly recommend you get a wideband to make sure your A/F is good.

Just my 2 cents

 

It is a stock bore H22 with 9:1 pistons so, there isn't a whold lot of difference, and I do have a wideband, and I would throw the 880's in but i want an as trouble free startup as possible without worrying about washing the rings, and I want to be able to drive it with those 340's knowing that it isnt going to boost. thanks for the input.

 

i think you should break it in on the dyno, that is what i will be doing.

 

bump

 

i'd start it will the turbo on and injectors in the car. If you have a wideband, then you will be able to see if its running rich and remove fuel, as it looks like you are running uber, so just datalog, remove fuel, reburn, repeat as necessary.

 

up

 

do you think it would be okay to drive the car to a dyno on a good basemap?

 

Break it on the street is the best. Just don't drive at one throttle and rpm seting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd start it will the turbo on and injectors in the car. If you have a wideband, then you will be able to see if its running rich and remove fuel, as it looks like you are running uber, so just datalog, remove fuel, reburn, repeat as necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you do know that the rings will seat before he can make those adujustments right? the rings start to seat as soon as the car is warmed up, how are you going to idle 880's on a newly built motor and NOT wash the rings out? like everyone else said either take the turbo kit off, and run it stock ( like i am doing right now ) or take it to the dyno and let the tuner start it up so he can make changes and whatnot. you have spent way to much money to cheap out now. dont be cheap, be smart and things will go your way.

 

thank you very much, Thats what I will do, I will just put the stock in jectors in, because the widebad takes like 45 seconds to warm up and get an accurate reading and I think that it would be enough time to wash it, so I will put some stock injectors in, thanks