read this article about Larry Widmer, he has a Moldex Billet Crank. Where can you get one? I wanna destroke my built motor so i can rev it higher, safer.

"Widmer started with a de-stroked Moldex billet crank"
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/22838/

Thanks.

 

It'll be ultimately cheaper, and you'll have more power if you put a deckplate on the motor, sleeve it, and run longer rods.

 

those moldex cranks must be very expensive. Anybody know where a deckplate, or deckplating for a dseries is at, can be done at? I wanna make a very high hp turbo d series, and i've got money to spend, but.....Maybe I should just get a dart tall deck block and boost the crap out of that. The dart block would probably cost less than getting a d series deckplated.

 

Just use a crank from a d15. Its 5mm shorter

 

the rod journals? are smaller, and thus would require thinner rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Killa-X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">read this article about Larry Widmer, he has a Moldex Billet Crank. Where can you get one? I wanna destroke my built motor so i can rev it higher, safer.

"Widmer started with a de-stroked Moldex billet crank"
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/22838/

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
rev higher and safer with a B16
it's cheaper

 

Yeah, but then I gotta get a b16 and tranny, cuz I don't have any of those laying around. Also the cool factor of having a SOHC d series with power is very cool.
Lots of guys have 400whp on SOHC, I just want to limit the cylinderwall side loading.

 

there is no need to destroke your D...you don't need to rev the d due to the stroke which'll get you a fat curve, and the high revs are where problems start with a long stroke, so you are ok ; )

that 90mm stroke is one reason the D is so nice; it helps boost come on sooner & for NA it gives you some nice midrange.

whomever said that using a b16 is cheaper is nuts-

d's are cheaper than a czech hooker; no one wants them and they are everywhere, both = cheap buy for those of us who love d's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d's are cheaper than a czech hooker; no one wants them and they are everywhere, both = cheap buy for those of us who love d's

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Around here, you will sooner find an LS at a Pick-And-Pull than any D16 that is not a D16A1 from a 1986-1989 Integra. And people only give away D15s around here. The way I see things, the whole argument of D-series being cheaper just doesn't really fly.

 

B16 complete swap is cheaper than a MOLDEX crank swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just use a crank from a d15. Its 5mm shorter</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rod journals are the same but Main journals are smaller than the 1.6L

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is no need to destroke your D...you don't need to rev the d due to the stroke which'll get you a fat curve, and the high revs are where problems start with a long stroke, so you are ok ; )

that 90mm stroke is one reason the D is so nice; it helps boost come on sooner & for NA it gives you some nice midrange.

whomever said that using a b16 is cheaper is nuts-

d's are cheaper than a czech hooker; no one wants them and they are everywhere, both = cheap buy for those of us who love d's

</TD></TR></TABLE>

A b16 is a rev happy motor, and has a very nice rod/stroke ratio to help hold the bottom end under high RPM's, The D's 90mm stroke puts the rods in too much of a bind, thats why they will snap Very quick under abuse.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HumanResource &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
rev higher and safer with a B16
it's cheaper</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second him on this, better platform for the long run.

And Larry of Endyne, the Crank he had made put his rod/stroke ratio at exactly what a B16 is, ask him and he'll tell you why...I have and his words were..."The B16 has the Best rod/stroke ratio of any Honda motor, so I wanted Reliability from my D"....and he paid about $4,000 for that crank also.

But I will also say this, keep the stroke you got and put Crower rods in it and sleeve it, you will never have a problem with it.

 

everyone here is missing the point-

he already has a built D!

he asked about destroking it to match a b16 r/s ratio, which is not necessary.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kryogen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A b16 is a rev happy motor, and has a very nice rod/stroke ratio to help hold the bottom end under high RPM's, The D's 90mm stroke puts the rods in too much of a bind, thats why they will snap Very quick under abuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's rev happy because it has to be...if you didn't rev it you REALLY would go nowhere...

the 90mm stroke doesn't put the the bottom end in a "bind" at all. The D's stroke is just fine. It is part of the reason it's so easy to get great torque within the midrange of a D. The piston speed issue that can come up w/ long stroke is only an issue if the thing is revved too high AND the rods are physically not strong enough (like a stock rod), but that is the whole thing- turbo and even NA d's NEVER need to be revved past 8k to make substantial power. You can make 500+whp with a stock stroke D16. As you mentioned, you simply need to upgrade the rods and do nothing with the stroke. Ask SVP Eddy about that. I doubt the orig. postee as well as most turbo d guys would be upset with over 500whp.

Back to the stock rods situation, it is the physical dimensions of the rods that are the weak point once you get past the rods bolts. But the stock rods of a d16 can support almost 100% more power than stock provided the rod bolts are upgraded, the rods are shot-peened and/or cryo'd and the thing is balanced/tuned...

If an arguement breaks out about which platform is better, i'm outta here because that has nothing to do with this thread

do what you like



Modified by builthatch at 12:29 PM 5/25/2005