how check cel on 99 accord
like an MIL? most bigger autostores do this for free, like autozone, or by an OBDII scanner since its a 96+ vehicle. they are like 100 bucks for the cheap ones.
like speed says go to autozone and have them read the code for you then post it here all the good guys here will help you out
are you having any runnubility issues ???
are you having any runnubility issues ???
OK, from the Haynes manual... (I've not done this myself)
Turn the ignition key On (engine not running) and make sure the Check Engine light on the instrument panel is on. If the light is off, replace the bulb. After verifying the bulb is good, turn the ignition key Off.
Locate the Data Link Connector (DLC) (under the instrument panel on the driver's side, looks like it's just above the hood release) and using a small jumper wire, connect terminals 8 and 13. Be careful not to damage the terminals in the DLC.
Turn the ignition key On and observe the Check Engine light on the dash. It will flash the trouble codes in a clear and distinct manner. The first long flash will represent the first digit of the code. The second digit of the code will flash using short flashes. For example, four long flashes will represent the first digit, 4, followed by two short flashes is code 42. Record all the trouble codes onto a notepad and observe the computer codes once again to double-check the accuracy as the PCM repeats the list of trouble codes after all the codes have been displayed once time. If there are no trouble codes stored, the Check Engine light on the dash will not flash.
To clear the codes, remove the #13 fuse on the passenger's side fuse/relay panel. Do not disconnect the battery to clear the codes as this will erase the stored operating parameters from the memory and cause the engine to run rough for a period of time while the computer relearns the information.
Here's a list of codes and what they mean:
http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/hondaobd2.shtml
What code comes up?
Or, just go to Autozone and ask them to use their SCAN tool programmed to read the codes. And consider picking up a Haynes manual, only ~ $13 or $14 new.
Turn the ignition key On (engine not running) and make sure the Check Engine light on the instrument panel is on. If the light is off, replace the bulb. After verifying the bulb is good, turn the ignition key Off.
Locate the Data Link Connector (DLC) (under the instrument panel on the driver's side, looks like it's just above the hood release) and using a small jumper wire, connect terminals 8 and 13. Be careful not to damage the terminals in the DLC.
Turn the ignition key On and observe the Check Engine light on the dash. It will flash the trouble codes in a clear and distinct manner. The first long flash will represent the first digit of the code. The second digit of the code will flash using short flashes. For example, four long flashes will represent the first digit, 4, followed by two short flashes is code 42. Record all the trouble codes onto a notepad and observe the computer codes once again to double-check the accuracy as the PCM repeats the list of trouble codes after all the codes have been displayed once time. If there are no trouble codes stored, the Check Engine light on the dash will not flash.
To clear the codes, remove the #13 fuse on the passenger's side fuse/relay panel. Do not disconnect the battery to clear the codes as this will erase the stored operating parameters from the memory and cause the engine to run rough for a period of time while the computer relearns the information.
Here's a list of codes and what they mean:
http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/hondaobd2.shtml
What code comes up?
Or, just go to Autozone and ask them to use their SCAN tool programmed to read the codes. And consider picking up a Haynes manual, only ~ $13 or $14 new.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poorman’s-allmotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help i was told that the accord didnt have a data link i guess that proves them wrong thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>No, it's got the OBD-2 connector. I think what the 6th-gen doesn't have is the older 2-wire connector.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not look in the faq: 6th gen 1998-2002 thread?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i don't check here often, good to see theres faq now.. i just tried searching through archives and coudln't find ther right answer.. thanks for helping out!
i don't check here often, good to see theres faq now.. i just tried searching through archives and coudln't find ther right answer.. thanks for helping out!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mywebpages.comcast.net/....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
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