i was planning on buying a fully built b16 which means the block is sleeved and blueprinted it has high comp pistons port and match port and pollish head/intake manifold /throttle body etc. its fully built. i am gonna pick it up for 4 grand and for my misc parts and labor it would come out to 5-6 grand thats including a p28 chipped and tunned ecu. and i was thinking for that same amount i can have a k20a2 but its stock put in my car. wut do u guys think. the b16 has 15-20 thousand miles on it. and this motor will be going into an ef.

 

People would say go with the k20 since much people don't have that swap done. personally i'd stick with the b16 fully built but that's just me. just remember B-Series parts are easier to come by than K-Series...

 

You would be spending alot more on the k20 swap than you would on the b16.

Also you said labor so I'm taking it as your going to a shop to get it done at. So it's less likely that they've put a k20 in an ef than a b16.

Me personally I wouldn't want my car to be the first car a shop works on unless they're giving me some kinda life time warrenty where if something mechanically or electrically (something that they might have messed up on) goes wrong they would fix it for free. But that's just me.

 

I'd personally get the k20 but that's just my opinion. I thought that the k20's were about 6k for the longblock//tranny alone then you have to buy a mount kit (750) or have them made and do all the shift linkage, wiring, etc. It's probably gonna cost 8-10 to get the engine in the car and running.

 

You know the specs on the motors, the huge price difference. Unless your just trying to get an eyecatcher why would you want to go with the k20 unless you wanted to build that up for more power too, but anyway you dont need more than 300-400 on the street its just going to cost more money than the b16 period. If the b16 is sleeved then use it go turbo, n20, sc or something make some mean power.

 

I'm sure a built turbo B16 shouldn't have a problem keeping up with a K20.

 

id go with the b16, lot easier to get ur hands on replacable parts

 

B16 the K20 would end up costing to much with suspension and other parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondacrx_3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16 the K20 would end up costing to much with suspension and other parts</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? K20 is roughly the same weight.


I personally say go K20a2. The swap doesn't appear to be as painful to do as some are saying on here. Only big thing is that one mount needs to be welded. The wiring can be done on your own if you have the know how, OR you can buy a harness that will P-n-P. K20a2 is the future

I feel that the K series is to the B series, as the B series is to the D series.

JMO.

&lt;------Seriously considering K24a2 or K20a

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwissChEz82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sure a built turbo B16 shouldn't have a problem keeping up with a K20.</TD></TR></TABLE>its<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrevnef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was planning on buying a fully built b16 which means the block is sleeved and blueprinted it has high comp pistons port and match port and pollish head/intake manifold /throttle body</TD></TR></TABLE> all motor

Go b series