I have a 94 EG coupe. We found that one of the steering column boots is broken so there's grease coming out and getting into different areas of the engine bay. Have any of you guys ever encounter this problem. If so, how much did it cost to fix?

 

The steering column doesn't have any boots, are you talking about the boots underneath the car on the "steering gearbox"? If so, they shouldn't be spewing grease everywhere. If you have power steering, and there is fluid coming out of there, your going to need to get a new gearbox. If you don't have power steering, and it's full of grease, you should check to make sure your CV (Axle) boots aren't busted (check all 4). Those will deffinently spew grease everywhere. The steering gearbox has very little grease inside it (only light coatings on moving parts)...

Needless to say, replace the gearbox boots if they are torn anyways...

As for cost, I just replaced them myself. You need to buy the boots & new large boot calmps (small clamps can be re-used). Should be around $15 per side. You will need an alignment afterward though (unless you can put your tie rod ends back exactly how they were)...

This job can easily be done with a jack, jackstands, the correct size wrenches (2), and a tie rod end lifter (rent the "5pc front end service kit" for free w/ deposit at Checker/Kragen auto parts for tie rod lifter), a screwdriver to pry off the smaller boot clamps, and wire cutters (to remove large boot calmps).

 

1. Loosen Lugs
2. Jack up car
3. Place on jack stands
4. Remove wheels
5. Remove cotter pins on tie rod castle nuts
6. Remove castle nuts
7. Use tie rod end lifter to separate tie rod balljoint from steering knuckle
8. Use two wrenches to break loose jam nut & tie rod end from steering gearbox
9. Remove Tie rod end & jam nut (may require PB blaster to eat away rust on jam nut).
10. Cut off larger boot clamp
11. Pry off smaller spiral boot clamp & save
12. Remove old boot
13. Clean & re grease inner balljoint
14. lightly grease the inner tie rod where the boot will permanently sit on it
15. Install new boot
16. Install old smaller spiral boot clamp
17. Install new large boot clamp
18. Install old jam nut
19. Install old tie rod end (hopefully exaclty where it came from)
20. Insert tie rod balljoint into steering knuckle
21. Install tie rod castle nut (torque to spec)
22. Install NEW cotter pin (never reuse old ones)
23. Install wheel (torque lugs properly)
24. Return car to ground & test drive

Here is a pic of a tie rod end lifter. The forked part (upper right) goes between the balljoint boot & the steering knuckle. When you turn the screw it forces the lower right portion up against the stud. Once it squeezes hard enough, the balljoint just POPs free (takes about 10 seconds )...

 

Whoa. Thanks for the advice. I'll try to take a look again. What's weird though is that we checked my CV boots (inner&outer) and nothing seemed to be wrong with them. No tears whatsoever. As for that gear box you mentioned, I gotta look for it.

 

This is a Manual steering gearbox (94 CX 3dr):


This is a Power steering gearbox (94 EX 2dr NON ABS):


It shouldn't be super greasy underneath those boots. The only parts that should have a descent amount of grease is the balljoints on the inner tie rods (#1 in first pic). This is the main component that the gearbox boots (#22 & #21 in first pic) are meant to protect. The only other part to have grease on it would be the steering rack itself (#9 in first pic). It should have a good coat of grease on the drivers side, and a light coat of grease on the passenger side...

I don't know what the ends of the steering rack should look like on the power steering version (2dr coupes have power steering)...