will new tailight gaskets actually stop my car from leaking?
i have all new moldings on my car from being repainted. but i still get water in the cargo area. i heard it could either be my tailight gaskets or the main seal aroun dthe rear hatch of my crx...
will these actually stop teh leaking before i actually order...?
will these actually stop teh leaking before i actually order...?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenMachineRex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will these actually stop teh leaking before i actually order...?</TD></TR></TABLE>
People also get leaks from the hatch squirter nozzle area......
I think if you dried all the water already there, then took a hose and ran it all around the taillights, you'd tell if they were leaking. If not, work your way up the hatch and douse/flood it all around. Last possibility would be that squirter. Worth a try before you order new gaskets.
People also get leaks from the hatch squirter nozzle area......
I think if you dried all the water already there, then took a hose and ran it all around the taillights, you'd tell if they were leaking. If not, work your way up the hatch and douse/flood it all around. Last possibility would be that squirter. Worth a try before you order new gaskets.
hi
I had leaky rear seals in my crx. I fixed them by coating the seals in vaseline or petroleum jelly, because I couldnt get new ones quickly from my dealer.
It was a DIY solution but worked well and stopped my boot leak.
good luck
I had leaky rear seals in my crx. I fixed them by coating the seals in vaseline or petroleum jelly, because I couldnt get new ones quickly from my dealer.
It was a DIY solution but worked well and stopped my boot leak.
good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People also get leaks from the hatch squirter nozzle area......
I think if you dried all the water already there, then took a hose and ran it all around the taillights, you'd tell if they were leaking. If not, work your way up the hatch and douse/flood it all around. Last possibility would be that squirter. Worth a try before you order new gaskets. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Before you order new gaskets, you can take a trip to wal-mart ( or any craft store ) and get a craft foam pad and make your own gasket. Look back in the arts and crafts department and look for it, the stuff looks like the same gasket material, but only cost 33 cents a sheet.
Also most leaks are from cracks in the body sealant located under your roof rain molding. One way to check is to open your hatch and look at the very back of the molding and see if there are any cracks. You can take clear silicone and rub some over the cracks to help with the leaks. To do a 100% sure job you should replace roof moldings and seal and cracks located under there.
I think if you dried all the water already there, then took a hose and ran it all around the taillights, you'd tell if they were leaking. If not, work your way up the hatch and douse/flood it all around. Last possibility would be that squirter. Worth a try before you order new gaskets. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Before you order new gaskets, you can take a trip to wal-mart ( or any craft store ) and get a craft foam pad and make your own gasket. Look back in the arts and crafts department and look for it, the stuff looks like the same gasket material, but only cost 33 cents a sheet.
Also most leaks are from cracks in the body sealant located under your roof rain molding. One way to check is to open your hatch and look at the very back of the molding and see if there are any cracks. You can take clear silicone and rub some over the cracks to help with the leaks. To do a 100% sure job you should replace roof moldings and seal and cracks located under there.
Trending Topics
crxkid88Sir, hi i'm from irrrrrrrrrrr-vine. hahaha. ( you ever seen that pablo fransciso comidean?) hahaha
i jsut ordered new tail light gaskets
i jsut ordered new tail light gaskets
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a sun roof ? It could be that</TD></TR></TABLE>
???????????????
???????????????
the sunroof is fine. i have tested it and it have completly been off the car. all the drains are cleaned too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hahagasdcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To do a 100% sure job you should replace roof moldings and seal and cracks located under there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean the roof moldings? Also what type of sealant would you use if you remove all of the factory sealant in the gutters?
To do a 100% sure job you should replace roof moldings and seal and cracks located under there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>What do you mean the roof moldings? Also what type of sealant would you use if you remove all of the factory sealant in the gutters?
MORE BOOTLEAK INFO:
----------------------------------------------
Stopping your boot leak, this is for if you find water in your spare
wheel well. This is different to the leak that you get on the back
seat.
Firstly you will need to remove the rear light clusters. That's the
centre section, and left and right brake lights. There are 6 bolts
holding the centre cluster to the chassis, and 4 holding the left and
right brake lights on.
You will need to remove the small flap covers that are on the inside
of the boot lining (inside the car). Also remove the main centre
piece of the boot lining just unbolt the bottom and give it a firm
tug upwards (careful not to break the trim clips). You will then
need a weapon of your choice, Socket set, spanner or adjustable
wrench. However the socket is by far the easiest to use.
When you have found all the bolts then start loosening them, but keep
them in a safe place. Some bolts are slightly hidden behind interior
trim but unless you smoke crack you should be able to find them
easily. If the clusters don't come off with little effort then there
is still a bolt holding it on, that you have missed.
Remove the clusters slowly jiggling it away from the chassis. You
will notice the culprits for your leaking boot. Slowly peel the
black seals away from the back of the lights. Remember which seals
went on which light and which way round they went. You will probably
notice that the seals are soaking wet and probably hardened around
the edges. What you want to do is take them to a sink and give them
a good wash in some warm water, clearing al the crap off the seals.
Then after drying the seals (padding on a towel works well, then
using a hairdryer to get them bone dry) apply copious amounts of
grease (silicone, or good old Vaseline) to both side and rub it all
in so the seal is very moist with grease. Wipe off any excess and
repeat with all the seals.
Whilst doing this clean the exposed chassis, and drain the rear
clusters of all water, the best way to do this is to drain it then
run a hairdryer at full heat and full blast into the bulb openings.
Place the seals on the light backs, and place the clusters back on
the car, tighten up the bolts nice and tight.
Plug the lights back into the holders and refit the interior trim
fittings. I've carried this out on two siR's that suffered from
water filled boots, neither of them had a problem after I carried out
this process.
All hail the versatility of Vaseline.
----------------------------------------------
Stopping your boot leak, this is for if you find water in your spare
wheel well. This is different to the leak that you get on the back
seat.
Firstly you will need to remove the rear light clusters. That's the
centre section, and left and right brake lights. There are 6 bolts
holding the centre cluster to the chassis, and 4 holding the left and
right brake lights on.
You will need to remove the small flap covers that are on the inside
of the boot lining (inside the car). Also remove the main centre
piece of the boot lining just unbolt the bottom and give it a firm
tug upwards (careful not to break the trim clips). You will then
need a weapon of your choice, Socket set, spanner or adjustable
wrench. However the socket is by far the easiest to use.
When you have found all the bolts then start loosening them, but keep
them in a safe place. Some bolts are slightly hidden behind interior
trim but unless you smoke crack you should be able to find them
easily. If the clusters don't come off with little effort then there
is still a bolt holding it on, that you have missed.
Remove the clusters slowly jiggling it away from the chassis. You
will notice the culprits for your leaking boot. Slowly peel the
black seals away from the back of the lights. Remember which seals
went on which light and which way round they went. You will probably
notice that the seals are soaking wet and probably hardened around
the edges. What you want to do is take them to a sink and give them
a good wash in some warm water, clearing al the crap off the seals.
Then after drying the seals (padding on a towel works well, then
using a hairdryer to get them bone dry) apply copious amounts of
grease (silicone, or good old Vaseline) to both side and rub it all
in so the seal is very moist with grease. Wipe off any excess and
repeat with all the seals.
Whilst doing this clean the exposed chassis, and drain the rear
clusters of all water, the best way to do this is to drain it then
run a hairdryer at full heat and full blast into the bulb openings.
Place the seals on the light backs, and place the clusters back on
the car, tighten up the bolts nice and tight.
Plug the lights back into the holders and refit the interior trim
fittings. I've carried this out on two siR's that suffered from
water filled boots, neither of them had a problem after I carried out
this process.
All hail the versatility of Vaseline.
i got new gaskets.
no wonder my old ones sucked ***.
these new ones are nice and thick.
my old ones looked like they had been thru hell and back. and when i took them off, they were just completely dry rotted and basically fell apart
to new tail light gaskets from hondaautomotiveparts.com
no wonder my old ones sucked ***.
these new ones are nice and thick.
my old ones looked like they had been thru hell and back. and when i took them off, they were just completely dry rotted and basically fell apart
to new tail light gaskets from hondaautomotiveparts.com
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
slammin86
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
3
Oct 8, 2007 04:00 PM
Rex89
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
3
Jan 2, 2007 06:12 PM







