okay...well besides that the ground wire melted while trying to start...we have 2 major problems #1 - The fuel rail has fuel...but the injectors arent shooting it in?? we dont know waht wrong all the wiring is correctly done and double checked by both of us.

#2 - There isnt any spark...all of the mpfi parts are off of a 90 crx Si....i was wondering....how do i wire up the 2 different plugs?? i need to know how to wire these 5 wires

those are from the stock dx harness ^^^
to get to go into this Down

^^^ i wired up the 2 in my hand that come fron the ecu...please help...and also if u know why the ground on the head on the valve cover bolt melted please help with that too thanks!!~~~

 

spark-have you wired in the cyl and crank sensors and repinned the other connectors at the ecu. the wires at the distributor will need to run into the car and be plugged into c1 and c2. the wires in c1 and c2 will need to be respectively moved to b10 and b12.

fuel-the resistor box will need one of the yel/blk wires pinned into it from the driver shock tower connector for it's 12v feed. the red/blk wires will need to be run to their respective injector. be certain that the injectors are pinned correctly at the ecu.

brown-cyl1-a1
red-cyl2-a3
lt. blue-cy3-a5
yel-cyl4-a7

make sure your ish is wired right or you will have nothing working.

 

and as for rewiring the distributor conector: get a pick set and use the one that looks kinda funky and twisted. use that one to slide in from the front side of the connector to pull the tab off the pin-then slide the wire back. do this to both connectors and pay attention to colors and their pinout. simply slide the existing wire into the correct connector and voila...a conversion without having to solder and splice (destroy) a harness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spark-have you wired in the cyl and crank sensors and repinned the other connectors at the ecu. the wires at the distributor will need to run into the car and be plugged into c1 and c2. the wires in c1 and c2 will need to be respectively moved to b10 and b12.

fuel-the resistor box will need one of the yel/blk wires pinned into it from the driver shock tower connector for it's 12v feed. the red/blk wires will need to be run to their respective injector. be certain that the injectors are pinned correctly at the ecu.

brown-cyl1-a1
red-cyl2-a3
lt. blue-cy3-a5
yel-cyl4-a7

make sure your ish is wired right or you will have nothing working.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what the hell is ish????

 

i also did soemthing wrong...i didnt move c1 and c2 i cut and ran wires out into engine bay? what do i have to do with b10 and b12? where do these wires goto?? thanks!

 

same as ****-just a different word

 

the wire in c1 will need to be repinned to b10. cap off the wire going into b10 so it doesn't short on anything. the wire in c2 will need to be repinned to b12. do the same with the original wire from b12 as you did with b10 to prevent shorts.

the cylinder and crank sensor from the distributor will then be pinned into c1 and c2.

 

does anyone kno if there is a diagram for the dizzy wires??? i got the plug for it but still..i dont wanna mess anything up and i wanna finish this tonight!@!!!

 

where did you find that avatar, i have the same one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone kno if there is a diagram for the dizzy wires??? i got the plug for it but still..i dont wanna mess anything up and i wanna finish this tonight!@!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm looking for you

 

you are using the round connector correct?

this is witht eh round connector:



if you need the ecu punouts just ask

 

i need the pinouts lol anyone got these real quick b4 i go?

 

all i need to know is how much does it cost to change from dpfi to mpfi. finally figurd out why i need to do that for a b swap lol

thx

 

if you get a complete swap from a place like hmotors you will get all of the stuff you need. with that you will need to modify your existing harness and wire in a few new things to the ecu.

so if you are comfortable with wiring-$0 is what it will cost to go to mpfi if you get a complete changeover.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you get a complete swap from a place like hmotors you will get all of the stuff you need. with that you will need to modify your existing harness and wire in a few new things to the ecu.

so if you are comfortable with wiring-$0 is what it will cost to go to mpfi if you get a complete changeover.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if you send out your DX harness to hasport to get converted to mpfi vtec you still need to switch some stuff up at the ecu correct? and then still add the vtec wires through the fire wall correct?.....if this is correct what wires will need to be changed at the ecu plugs?

 

hmmm.. ok but im not comfortable with wiring but i know couple people who could do the entire swap for me if i paid them couple hundred since they are so nice to do it. but eh, never though of the complete conversion lol. um.. anyone ever heard of the performance shop: hi performance art ? if i can get the engine cheaper from there then on hmotors i will cause i wont need to ship it either

 

DISTRIBUTOR PLUG

[WHITE/BLUE][ORANGE/BLUE]
[ ][ WHITE ][ ORANGE ][ WHITE(THICKER) ]
[BLUE/YELLOW][BLUE/GREEN ]



BLUE/GREEN - C1
BLUE/YELLOW - C2
ORANGE/BLUE - C3
WHITE/BLUE - C4
ORANGE - B10
WHITE(THICKER) - B15

CRANK ANGLE SENSOR - WHITE & ORANGE
NO.1 CYLINDER POSITION SENSOR - BLUE/GREEN & BLUE/YELLOW
TOP DEAD CENTER SENSOR - ORANGE/BLUE & WHITE/BLUE
IGNITION OUTPUT - WHITE(THICKER)
WHITE - B12