just wanted to kno whats the best oil to use on a b16a swap on a 91 crx.. haven't changed the oil yet so input would be great.

 

i have ls/vtec, i use mobil 1 super synthetic 10w-30 wouldnt use anything else either....but my friends both use Royal Purple in a b16 and the other has a gsr.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRAD 1.8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> mobil 1 super synthetic : </TD></TR></TABLE>

werd

 

agip 10w-60 synthetic racing oil its cheaper than mobil one and is great, you wont burn a drop, i have been running it for over a year no problems,great stuff

 

i use darublend. basically im too cheap to buy full synthetic. i guess i would rather change my cheap oil every 2500 miles than to keep the good stuff in for 5000.

 

you want the best? use amsoil. i think they're great, look at their site a little, plus i know people that have run oil analysis after severely overusing oil, and it holds to their claims. but pricey at their price. mobil 1 is really good i hear too, i'd use the 10w30 or 10w40 if the engine's a bit older.

 

evidently none of these guys replying to posts know what theyre talking about.
first off lemme start by saying i am an experienced lube tech (meaning that i
change oil 45 hrs a week for a living). if that doesnt make u want to listen then
theres no hope for ya. ok, first off, if u want to run sythetic then beware that
the older the engine is, the more likely there will be a leak with synthetic
oil. the reason for this is that there is a much higher level of detergents (think of it
as soap to clean your engine) in synthetic motor oils, therefore your engine
will run cleaner, but the drawback is when the synthetic oil cleans the excess dirt and grime from inside the motor, the damaged sections of gaskets or seals that
were once plugged or covered in dirt are now exposed, allowing the oil to leak from
these places. dont get me wrong, cleaner is better, but only a motor that
is freshly rebuilt or new (seals, gaskets and all) will be able to withstand leaking.
i definitely would not reccommend swithcing to full synthetic on any motor with
more than 35,000 miles. for those people who have more mileage than this i would reccommend synthetic blend, because theres less detergents than a full synthetic so it's less likely to find a leak, but i still wouldnt reccommend switching to blend with more than 75k on a motor. so my advice is to check your oil pan to see if it is wet around the pan gasket itself, if it is, you might see a leak with synthetic. also, i wouldnt reccommend running synthetic unless you will committ to running it all the
time, as switching back and forth to different oils can cause problems in the long
run, and it really is a waste of money to use synthetic oil if you dont use it all the time. as for the weight i would reccommend using the O E M suggestion which is 5 w 30 on most hondas except hybrids. the reason for this is the tolerances of
hondas are much higher (tolerances meaning the space between two pieces of
metal, for example the space between your main bearings and the crank itself, and the same thing with the rods and bearings). if the weight of the oil is too heavy, the oil will be too thick and will not be able to lubricate between the parts.
and lastly, i dont care if people say synthetic is thinner that conventional oil, cause its NOT true. all oils are measured by weight....10w30 5w30 etc. no matter if its syntetic or not, 5w30 is still 5w30. the only real difference in thickness between synthetic and conventional, or different brands, is measured in microscopic increments called cinnestrokes. these increments are so small that lets say you have one oil that has 1000 cinnestrokes and another type that has
1010. the difference is so small that they can still be classified as the same weight.
these measurements of cinnestrokes will slightly differ between brands while still
being the same weight. the bottom line is run what the manufacturer suggests
you run in your car and not what your buddy says, cause the factory engineers
designed your motor and not your buddy, so how does your buddy really know for sure whats best? now this is a lot to throw at a person but lemme assure you this is just the icing on the cake and the real chemistry of oil goes much much deeper despite what people think or say. i hope this gives you insight when you make a choice on oil, and good luck with your future car maintenence.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


I rock valvoline 10W-40 in my 111k mile d series.

 

amsoil is the best but it is definitly spendy at that

 

i use 10w-30 castrol syntec. always have, always will. zero problems.

i change it every 3000 on the crx
and every 5000-6000 on the integra (its my daily bitch, she doesnt need to be pampered)

 

Castrol GTX 5w30 every 3k here.

 

castrol full synthetic 10w30 in my b16

 

Royal Purple 5w30 for my B16. Works great

 

Redline 10w30, or german castrol syntech 0w30

 

my baby only gets mobil one 10w30

 

i use the cheapest oil i can find at the store.. most of the time it's that chevron **** at about 1.19 a bottle

 

10w40 castrol high mileage for my 100++miles D-Series civic makes my car feel young again ha ha!

 

I use Mobil 1 European Car Formula (0W40). But any name-brand synthetic is good.