I posted this in the all motor area and only got one guy who helped out:

I have a '95 GSR engine with the usual CAI, full 2.5" exhaust, and header.

I picked up some CTR cams and a VAFC.

I'm looking for a starting point on my VAFC.

I know many of you will say get it dyno tuned and I will once I get some other mods done.

I'm just looking for a starting point, Vtec RPM, +/- fueling, cam gears setting, etc.

Please don't say every setup is different because if that were true Honda would have to tune every car they made one at a time. A GSR with I/E/H and CTR cams is going to have pretty much the same tune no matter who you are. All USDM GSRs engine are the same, all CTR cams have the same specs, dyno tests show most headers are about the same, blah blah, blah.

I know that a dyno tune will sqeek out the last HP but I just want may daily driver not to have awful flat spots, till I get it tuned properly.

Thanks

 

Factors such as current vehicle modifications, weather, altitude, gasoline octane, driving style, and engine wear all play a crucial role when determining proper tuning.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> because if that were true Honda would have to tune every car they made one at a time.

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would they have to tune each one ? They make each identical engine the same specs/sizes/ etc. Each engine is brand new therefore there is no ware on the engine. Intended for daily driving and made for all weather in any almost any climate. Each engine is identical to the one of its kind with the same parts and they state a recommended octane level to use for each engine. so why would they tune each one .. when each engine of its kind is the same when new ?

 

Pm me il help u out...let me know what u really need..this is what HT for bro...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vera &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Factors such as current vehicle modifications, weather, altitude, gasoline octane, driving style, and engine wear all play a crucial role when determining proper tuning.


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yes, you will have to get a wideband tune, dont risk diy afc tuning blwoing up your motor. Do it once, do it right.. I dont know what afr a n/a honda should be running so dont ask me.

 

just leave it at stock levels until you dyno it.

i mean, if you're not going to dyno it yet, you're not going to feel any increase anyway. i got a 7HP gain from the cams + tuning, but I can't tell the difference. So don't risk ******* up your setup on a whim or a guess.

 

i dyno tuned my car with a similar setup and gained 13 whp . worth the money

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smkngsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pm me il help u out...let me know what u really need..this is what HT for bro...</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly ... thats what we are all here for .. and i think its better advice to tell him to go dyno it rather than just "guess" at what numbers may or may not work.

 

ive seen alot of hondas start ******* up after you try to ADD fuel with a vafc after a few percent increase it causes alot of drivability issues..dont forget you are just hacking the map sensor signal making the ecu see false info to get it to do what you want...it will also change igniton timing based on what its seeing

 

I'm doing the 2000+ ITR cams and VAFC2 pretty soon and have been doing a bit of research. Cross-over is going to be around 5200... I figure I would just do some street tuning to find out where it really should be at. Try 5000 and then increase until I find the sweet spot.

It should be safe to do this since it should be running pretty rich since stock crossover is 4400.

This will have the biggest effect on the flatspots in you power. I will be doing this only until I can dyno tune it.

Fuel tuning is just a tool used to gain the most power out of the engine. You dyno it to maximize (flatten) the torque curve, fuel tuning is a tool used to do this. Not for just obtaining some magical 13.0 or 13.5 ratio. Hence this should really be left to the dyno. You will be running rich so you're gonna be taking away fuel to maximize your gains, taking too much fuel away without the use of a wide band and you're really pushing it.

Another option to dyno tuning is just tuning it for a certain a/f ratio... say 13.5. You install your wideband and data log each run and adjust as required. Not the best to maximize power but decent gains can be made safely.

Cam gear tuning really has to do with what you want to do... peak HP or midrange. Peak HP increase overlap... retard the intake cam and advance the exhuast. Don't go past 6 deg on either cam.
Midrange reduce valve overlap... advance the intake cam and retard the exhuast. Don't go past 6 deg on either cam.
Suggestion; Leave these straight up since they're not gonna have any effect on flatspots.

 

i'll tell you that with my setup: I/H/E + ITR cams + VAFC, my VTEC is at 4600 because it starts to drop off after that. Unless you use the ITR ECU's fuelmap as well as drivetrain and other internals, increasing your crossover point is just going to lose you power, as the car still relies on the dual butterfly intake.

my tuning consists strictly of fuel increases. i thought this odd since the GSR is supposed to run rich stock, but the dyno shows otherwise.

just showing you that one setup is not the same as the other.

 

Well after I get my stuff I will know for sure. 4600 rpm seems a bit low, I've done a bit of research and many have posted 5200.

If you read the posts where guys have just dropped in ITR cams without any change in cross over they complain about a big flatspot, from 4400rpm to pretty high... not just 4400 to 4600 rpms.

If you're the lone man out then there maybe something amiss with your setup... I measured the cam lobes when I picked up my cams so I wouldn't get gipped. Can't rely only on the rings for identifying ITR cams.

 

im in the same boat.. ive hear that 5300-5600 is a good range. and its true about the piggy back controllers.. they just increase the voltage of the map sensor and it retards/advances your timing at the same time without you knowing it. anyways the low cam lobe definately needs to go longer. I was just going to set it to when the secondaries open 5600-5700

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well after I get my stuff I will know for sure. 4600 rpm seems a bit low, I've done a bit of research and many have posted 5200.

If you read the posts where guys have just dropped in ITR cams without any change in cross over they complain about a big flatspot, from 4400rpm to pretty high... not just 4400 to 4600 rpms.

If you're the lone man out then there maybe something amiss with your setup... I measured the cam lobes when I picked up my cams so I wouldn't get gipped. Can't rely only on the rings for identifying ITR cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there's nothing wrong with my setup, my cams are 100% '00+ ITR and i had it tuned on a reliable dyno (DSR in san jose).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HoUTX98GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im in the same boat.. ive hear that 5300-5600 is a good range. and its true about the piggy back controllers.. they just increase the voltage of the map sensor and it retards/advances your timing at the same time without you knowing it. anyways the low cam lobe definately needs to go longer. I was just going to set it to when the secondaries open 5600-5700</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it modifies the MAP signal thereby increasing or decreasing fuel. However it's best if you're taking away fuel. Timing is not directly affected by the VAFC, ECU will look up timing values based on the modified MAP signal and other standard factors such as throttle position.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dLo homey-GS-RaRrRrR! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there's nothing wrong with my setup, my cams are 100% '00+ ITR and i had it tuned on a reliable dyno (DSR in san jose).</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you're satisfied... I just pointed out something I would delve into.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as you're satisfied... I just pointed out something I would delve into. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What exactly do you want me to delve into?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as you're satisfied... I just pointed out something I would delve into. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dLo homey-GS-RaRrRrR! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly do you want me to delve into?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read!!! Did I say you??

No... I said me.

Leave it alone, move on.

 

Spend 300 bucks on a plx wideband and spend some time street tuning your motor

 

My GSR had the same mods as you and i set up my VAFC to what I thought would be good for the car by listening to what some friends told me and how their vafc's were set up. Didnt work too well for me. you can try it tho. just be conservative with your additions.

VTEC at 5200 has a nice kick though...better at 5600

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Read!!! Did I say you??

No... I said me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did read, and in the context of the reply, you could be implying the reader of the sentence.