Viscosity for B16B oil?
Has anyone ran into problems using the Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30? I could not find any specs for the oil in this damned motor so I had to go with Honda's reccomendation for the B16A2 motor. Thanks for any input.....I want to do my best to make sure this motor lasts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone ran into problems using the Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30? I could not find any specs for the oil in this damned motor so I had to go with Honda's reccomendation for the B16A2 motor. Thanks for any input.....I want to do my best to make sure this motor lasts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
alot of people like mobil 1 with no problems just expensive lol
any oil will do though..just get the oil for your climate...
alot of people like mobil 1 with no problems just expensive lol
any oil will do though..just get the oil for your climate...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know its expensive.....not nearly as much as a new motor from runnign crap *** oil though.
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not really bro..as long as you consistently change your oil depending on how hard you drive it it'll be perfectly fine..same goes for the synthetic...
</TD></TR></TABLE>not really bro..as long as you consistently change your oil depending on how hard you drive it it'll be perfectly fine..same goes for the synthetic...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not really bro..as long as you consistently change your oil depending on how hard you drive it it'll be perfectly fine..same goes for the synthetic...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree. Conventional oil does not protect nearly as well as synthetic oil. It also does not stand up to high temperatures as well. So when it comes to what kind of oil to run in a motor like the B16B (a motor that revs to almost 9000RPM and cruises at around 4500-5000RPM), I would pass up the conventional stuff.
Remember, conventional oil is meant for cars powered by conventional motors (you know, the kind that cruise at 2000RPM or less on the freeway), driven by conventional drivers (you know, the kind that believe it is a virtue to use to little throttle pressure that you would not crack an egg between your foot and the throttle).
not really bro..as long as you consistently change your oil depending on how hard you drive it it'll be perfectly fine..same goes for the synthetic...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree. Conventional oil does not protect nearly as well as synthetic oil. It also does not stand up to high temperatures as well. So when it comes to what kind of oil to run in a motor like the B16B (a motor that revs to almost 9000RPM and cruises at around 4500-5000RPM), I would pass up the conventional stuff.
Remember, conventional oil is meant for cars powered by conventional motors (you know, the kind that cruise at 2000RPM or less on the freeway), driven by conventional drivers (you know, the kind that believe it is a virtue to use to little throttle pressure that you would not crack an egg between your foot and the throttle).
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Synthetic oil is simpley designed to last longer and cause less buildup over time. Whoever stated that the ONLY difference between oils is the detergent and additive packages is totally correct. Still.....those make a huge difference IMO. For my peace of mind I'll stick with the Mobil synth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Synthetic oil is simpley designed to last longer and cause less buildup over time. Whoever stated that the ONLY difference between oils is the detergent and additive packages is totally correct.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true. Synthetic oil is also designed to better resist thermal breakdown, oxidation, viscosity breakdown, and viscosity change with temperature. Synth is superior to conventional in all ways possible (except, of course, price).
Not true. Synthetic oil is also designed to better resist thermal breakdown, oxidation, viscosity breakdown, and viscosity change with temperature. Synth is superior to conventional in all ways possible (except, of course, price).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevanitygroup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mobil 1 0-40w Euro Formula. Period.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definately a better choice than a 30wt M1... that stuff shears down to almost a 20 weight.
Either M1 0w-40 or German Castrol 0w-30
Definately a better choice than a 30wt M1... that stuff shears down to almost a 20 weight.
Either M1 0w-40 or German Castrol 0w-30
^ Agreed. Although, even the Mobil1 5w-30 is a decent oil. Alot better than 90% of average shelf oils. Mobil has started phasing out some of its older bottling labels and it's now becoming harder to find my Euro Formula that I know and love. Seriously, if anyone sees it at your local Autozone, buy every freaking bottle. BTW, heard Castrol was making some bottling changes soon too. Should be fun finding the German Synth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevanitygroup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ Agreed. Although, even the Mobil1 5w-30 is a decent oil. Alot better than 90% of average shelf oils. Mobil has started phasing out some of its older bottling labels and it's now becoming harder to find my Euro Formula that I know and love. Seriously, if anyone sees it at your local Autozone, buy every freaking bottle. BTW, heard Castrol was making some bottling changes soon too. Should be fun finding the German Synth.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They carry all the good stuff around here...
If you can't find ****... http://www.amsoil.com <-- great oil.
They carry all the good stuff around here...
If you can't find ****... http://www.amsoil.com <-- great oil.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_deuce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im loving the german castrol syntec im running. 0w30!
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Holy ****, I've never heard of that...but it would make sense. Must be liquidy as ****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Holy ****, I've never heard of that...but it would make sense. Must be liquidy as ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoolJimWhy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy ****, I've never heard of that...but it would make sense. Must be liquidy as ****.
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Its a very heavy 30wt oil, thicker than most 30wt oils out there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Its a very heavy 30wt oil, thicker than most 30wt oils out there.
StorminMatt, you are greatly over-stating the benefits of 'synthetic' oils. Heck, the word 'synthetic' is not even considered a technical term within the industry anymore.
Top quality Group II+ mineral oils like Pennzoil and Chevron Supreme perform very well as long as you keep the drain intervals reasonable. Both of these brands use an additive package with lots of boron and molybdenum ... not unlike Mobil 1.
I've seen hundreds of UOA lab tests and they back this up.
Yes, mass-market mineral oils aren't as shear stable, but if you change them at 2,000 miles, they are even good enough for occasional track duty. Going 3,000-4,000 miles is no problem for most engines.
If you are using Mobil 1 and draining it after 3,000 miles, you are just wasting expensive oil.
I use Schaeffer's synthetic blend ... a real 20-25% PAO blend and it holds up well ... and I recently saw a UOA from a Type-R after at least one track event. I couldn't believe how well it held up:
http://theoildrop.server101.co...02567
Top quality Group II+ mineral oils like Pennzoil and Chevron Supreme perform very well as long as you keep the drain intervals reasonable. Both of these brands use an additive package with lots of boron and molybdenum ... not unlike Mobil 1.
I've seen hundreds of UOA lab tests and they back this up.
Yes, mass-market mineral oils aren't as shear stable, but if you change them at 2,000 miles, they are even good enough for occasional track duty. Going 3,000-4,000 miles is no problem for most engines.
If you are using Mobil 1 and draining it after 3,000 miles, you are just wasting expensive oil.
I use Schaeffer's synthetic blend ... a real 20-25% PAO blend and it holds up well ... and I recently saw a UOA from a Type-R after at least one track event. I couldn't believe how well it held up:
http://theoildrop.server101.co...02567
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_deuce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im loving the german castrol syntec im running. 0w30!
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The gold GC isn't as good as the green stuff...
If you can find the Green GC stock up on the stuff, because the Gold GC ('05 - dates on bottom of bottle) isn't as good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The gold GC isn't as good as the green stuff...
If you can find the Green GC stock up on the stuff, because the Gold GC ('05 - dates on bottom of bottle) isn't as good.
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