just wondering why i must use the 40/40 prop valve with my rear disk swap? and waht happens if i dont? also, can i use my stock master cylinder and brake booster?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jarvis199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just wondering why i must use the 40/40 prop valve with my rear disk swap? and waht happens if i dont? also, can i use my stock master cylinder and brake booster? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to use a 40/40 valve. You MIGHT but you don't have to. It depends on the size of your front brakes. If it happens that you do need one, the vavling for your brakes will be off. The brakes won't be used to their full potential.

Yes you can use your stock master cylinder and brake booster but upgrading to larger ones would help trumendously. I put the ITR 1" in mine and it made, by far, the biggest difference out of all my brake upgrades.

 

Get the parts and do it right. Brake fade is horrible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't have to use a 40/40 valve. You MIGHT but you don't have to. It depends on the size of your front brakes. If it happens that you do need one, the vavling for your brakes will be off. The brakes won't be used to their full potential.

Yes you can use your stock master cylinder and brake booster but upgrading to larger ones would help trumendously. I put the ITR 1" in mine and it made, by far, the biggest difference out of all my brake upgrades.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? i thought drum brakes require more pressure than disc. and since you're changing them, there would be more brakeage upon the rear disc now. as for the MC/BB/PV, they're recommended for change but not required.

 

prop valve portions out the fluid and pressure to go to all the brakes, u will want to get the right prop valve for a rear disc setup.

 

The proportioning valve only serves to limit the line pressure to the rear brakes once a certain pressure threshold is attained. Before that threshold, the line pressure is the same front & rear, and the proportioning valve does nothing at all...

If you do a rear disc swap, you get better performance out of your brake system by upgrading to an integra 40/40 (40/30 from the 92-95 Si is ideal for a hatchback with a D series motor).

You do not need a larger master cylinder or brake booster with your rear disc swap. Anybody that says you do, needs to re-bleed their own brake system. The 92 Si has rear discs (& small 9.4" front discs) and still uses the 13/16" master cylinder. You only need a larger master cylinder if you are adding larger front discs...

Here are some tips:
7/8" master cylinder when using 10.2" civic front brakes
15/16" master cylinder when using 10.2" integra front brakes
1" master cylinder when using 11" Type R front brakes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by POE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">prop valve portions out the fluid and pressure to go to all the brakes, u will want to get the right prop valve for a rear disc setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well i have the full rear lca's, gsr struts, sway bars, master clylinder, booster, and prop valve, but the prop valve is from an abs gsr teg, so can i use that? my hatch is a dx which = NO ABS... anyway, ive got the teg front brakes too but im going to leave mine stock and jsut upgrade my pads and rotors, and do the rear disk conversion, so would the teg master cylinder and booster help a lot? and can i use the prop valve from a 1995 teg gsr with abs??? what will happen if i use the one i have on my car now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jarvis199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i have the full rear lca's, gsr struts, sway bars, master clylinder, booster, and prop valve, but the prop valve is from an abs gsr teg, so can i use that? my hatch is a dx which = NO ABS... anyway, ive got the teg front brakes too but im going to leave mine stock and jsut upgrade my pads and rotors, and do the rear disk conversion, so would the teg master cylinder and booster help a lot? and can i use the prop valve from a 1995 teg gsr with abs??? what will happen if i use the one i have on my car now </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are not going to need the master cylinder for your rear disc swap. If your pedal feels spongy after the bleed process, do it again. Air traped in the lines is dangerous anyways...

An ABS prop valve only has 4 ports. The is now way you could hook it up to a NON ABS chassis (requires 6 ports). You need a prop valve from any NON ABS 90+ teg, rear disc NON ABS del sol, rear disc NON ABS 90+ civic/crx...

 

i got my rear disc swap off of a 94 Ex and i couldnt use the Prop valve in my DX. im using my stock one right now but will upgrade when i get the money