I'm wondering if I can simplify my 10pt cage install by having the front windsheild bars come down to the floor right in front of the dash, instead of going through the dash. However, I'm not sure if this would be able to pass tech. I think it is SpoolinG2 who has his DA cage like this.

The Bars would fallow the contour of the windsheild pillars, but then turn to a 90deg angle with the car and be welded to the floor right infront of the dash.

I just don't want to ruin the streetability of the car with a hacked up dash, nor do I want to put in the effort to take the entire thing out.

Any input, or previous experience?

TIA, Bryson.

 

That would work since in front of the dash the bars would land next to the drivers ankle, where it needs to be according to the NHRA. That is if you meant taking the dash out and running the tubes in front (front of car).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I understand, in order for the cage to be NHRA legal the side bars and the front upper bars need to hit the floor next to the drivers ankle. In front of the dash board would be a little behind the leg while in the driving position.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What if the bar is angled past the dash? I don't mean like bent like the non-NHRA legal cages, but just angled towards the part of the floor around where the ankle would be?

 

Do you mean taking the dash out and placing them next to the window pillar or leaving the dash in and running it to the floor in front?

 

I THINK HE MEANS LEAVING THE DASH IN AND BUILDING THE CAGE AROUND IT. (**** caps oh well) does the rule book say anything about the down bars must be perendicular to the floor pan. i think if you did this though you would loose a lot of room for climbing in and out of the car and it may not be very comfortable to drive.

 

you wouldn't be able to get the dash out in the future if you ever needed to. I'd run them through the dash...

 

yeah, thats how i got mine setup. Everything is NHRA legal too. Here is a pic if you wanted to check it out...



any others questions man...lemme know

 

looks like it makes it even harder to get in and less comfortable to drive. It may not be a problem for you but I'm 6'4 and that wouldnt work for me at all.

 

Bryson- It's not that bad taking the dash out, just seems like it. Just take it out and run it through. That's what we're doing on our cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like it makes it even harder to get in and less comfortable to drive. It may not be a problem for you but I'm 6'4 and that wouldnt work for me at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really don't think it would be THAT much harder to get in. The main problem that makes it hard to get in is just that side bar. I'm 6'3, and I don't think I would have a problem.

The only problem that I can see, is what Tony mentioned. It would be almost impossible to get the dash out with the cage welded in like this. However, I can't think of 1 reason Why I would need to take the dash out.

As long as it's NHRA legal, I think I'm going to go this route.

 

I have one of the art morrision cages in my car, the one that alows the stock dash. Yea i know i can't run 7's with this cage. It a 6-point, no rear seat, stock dash. It's not hard to get in and out of the car, I'm 6'0" tall and have no problems even with the racing seat.

I can't take my dash out either without removing the front bars. I removed my dash once from my old car and that was to put it in the new car, also changed all the wiring over and heater stuff under the dash, then put the dash in and welded in the cage, when it came time to start the car with the stock engine in to make sure everything was ok, I was really hoping i didn't forget anything under the dash that would require it to be removed to fix. Well, eveything is fine, no need to remove the dash.

The side bars are the only thing i notice when getting in and out of the car.

If i ever do it again the bars will be put in first, then modify the dash to go in after, looks cleaner, is stronger, legal for faster times, more room in the car and dash can still be removed. Just my $.02

 

Within the 12 hours from your first post to your last post you could have taken out the dash twice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Within the 12 hours from your first post to your last post you could have taken out the dash twice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt it. Since I normally sleep in that time. Full time student, and full time job own me.

It's either...6pt this season...and add on the 10pt setup next season.

Or do it this way, and have a 10pt this season.

For those who have run the front bars through the dash of a 88-91 CRX, did you encounter any sheetmetal, heater core/fan, obstructions?

As far as I can tell, I would have to do without heat if I wanted to run them through the dash.

 

Bump...well I just emailed Jim at NHRA. We'll see what he says. If I go this route, I just want it confirmed that it will be legal.

 

here are some more pics of my cage if you wanted to check it out. By the way I'm 6'1" and i dont have a hard time getting in at all. Once you get a way down its easy.