rotating crankshaft
how do i rotate my crankshaft, cause i need to do my valve lash adjustment, and i dont know how to rotate the bastard. so right now my car isnt running, any help is appreciated, please i need this asap. also, are the valves closest to the front of the car intake valves, correct? thanks. oh yeah, right now my car is running rough, because i messed with the valve a little bit, just to see, so could it be that my adjustment is off to much? or spark plugs. it sputters, and then if you press the gas, and let off it stalls.
A.) you rotate your crankshaft by getting a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley bolt head and turning it. I suggest half-inch.
B.) the intake valves are in the back, where the intake manifold is.
C.) why did you randomly **** with your valves? Which one(s) did you mess with and what did you do to it/them?
D.) it's unlikely that anything you did to the valves is causing your car to die.
Did the car dying happen before or after you fucked up the valves? It sounds like an ignition or fuel system problem to me.
B.) the intake valves are in the back, where the intake manifold is.
C.) why did you randomly **** with your valves? Which one(s) did you mess with and what did you do to it/them?
D.) it's unlikely that anything you did to the valves is causing your car to die.
Did the car dying happen before or after you fucked up the valves? It sounds like an ignition or fuel system problem to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A.) you rotate your crankshaft by getting a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley bolt head and turning it. I suggest half-inch.
B.) the intake valves are in the back, where the intake manifold is.
C.) why did you randomly **** with your valves? Which one(s) did you mess with and what did you do to it/them?
D.) it's unlikely that anything you did to the valves is causing your car to die.
Did the car dying happen before or after you fucked up the valves? It sounds like an ignition or fuel system problem to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i screwed with them, cause i just do stupid stuff, a lot, and yeah i know, i shouldnt **** with ****, but i do, just because. so yeah, its a stupid answer, but i can be VERY stupid, more often than not. so anyways, yeah, i think it might be my plugs. cause i took them out, and put them back in, well, i took 1 out. because i heard you can get to tdc if you take your spark plugs out, and stick a long *** screw driver downt ehre, but i didnt see anything, so i just put it back on, and i messed with the 2 intake valves on the rigth side, i didnt adjust them very much though, so yeah. probably just plugs then?
B.) the intake valves are in the back, where the intake manifold is.
C.) why did you randomly **** with your valves? Which one(s) did you mess with and what did you do to it/them?
D.) it's unlikely that anything you did to the valves is causing your car to die.
Did the car dying happen before or after you fucked up the valves? It sounds like an ignition or fuel system problem to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i screwed with them, cause i just do stupid stuff, a lot, and yeah i know, i shouldnt **** with ****, but i do, just because. so yeah, its a stupid answer, but i can be VERY stupid, more often than not. so anyways, yeah, i think it might be my plugs. cause i took them out, and put them back in, well, i took 1 out. because i heard you can get to tdc if you take your spark plugs out, and stick a long *** screw driver downt ehre, but i didnt see anything, so i just put it back on, and i messed with the 2 intake valves on the rigth side, i didnt adjust them very much though, so yeah. probably just plugs then?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh god.. dood step away from the car, call a mechanic.. and dish out some money..
roflo... DON'T TOUCH YOUR ENGINE</TD></TR></TABLE>
AGREED!!! Good luck man. Definitely call a mechanic, make sure you fill up your blinker fluid and remove the golden rivet before you take it in...
roflo... DON'T TOUCH YOUR ENGINE</TD></TR></TABLE>
AGREED!!! Good luck man. Definitely call a mechanic, make sure you fill up your blinker fluid and remove the golden rivet before you take it in...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by codyb13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is it safe to say spark plugs then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, if you messed with your valves when they weren't TDC, you're all messed up. Seriously tow it to a dealer and have them do it for you.
No, if you messed with your valves when they weren't TDC, you're all messed up. Seriously tow it to a dealer and have them do it for you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh god.. dood step away from the car, call a mechanic.. and dish out some money..
roflo... DON'T TOUCH YOUR ENGINE</TD></TR></TABLE>
this post did not help him at all....so why the **** did you post it?
roflo... DON'T TOUCH YOUR ENGINE</TD></TR></TABLE>
this post did not help him at all....so why the **** did you post it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by codyb13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i get to tdc from where the spark plugs are at, or do i need to rotate crankshaft?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can see if it's at TDC by placing a long screwdriver in the plug holes. In order to get it to TDC, you have to rotate the crankshaft.
You can see if it's at TDC by placing a long screwdriver in the plug holes. In order to get it to TDC, you have to rotate the crankshaft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this post did not help him at all....so why the **** did you post it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
he posted it because i sound so ******* stupid. which i am. but seriously, thanks for not being an ******* like some of the other guys.
</TD></TR></TABLE>he posted it because i sound so ******* stupid. which i am. but seriously, thanks for not being an ******* like some of the other guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can see if it's at TDC by placing a long screwdriver in the plug holes. In order to get it to TDC, you have to rotate the crankshaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man, but one more stupid question, i have to take the belt off the crankshaft right? sorry for being so stupid, but this help is really appreciated, and how do i get the belt off, and how do i get it back on if i need to. kinda a newb, so your help is really appreciated. thanks.
thanks man, but one more stupid question, i have to take the belt off the crankshaft right? sorry for being so stupid, but this help is really appreciated, and how do i get the belt off, and how do i get it back on if i need to. kinda a newb, so your help is really appreciated. thanks.
No, do not touch the belts... I repeat, do not touch the belts.
Just take the plugs and valve cover off. Place a screwdriver in the cylinder. Rotate the crank until the screwdriver has risen to it's max point, this is TDC. Adjust the valves for that cylender. Move onto the next cylinder and repeat for all 4.
Just take the plugs and valve cover off. Place a screwdriver in the cylinder. Rotate the crank until the screwdriver has risen to it's max point, this is TDC. Adjust the valves for that cylender. Move onto the next cylinder and repeat for all 4.
If I were you I wouldn't use the screwdriver technique...
Just use the timing marks on either the crank shaft pulley (the thing all the accessory belts go to) or the marks on the cam gear.
the screwdriver technique is not as accurate as using the marks on the crankshaft pully... The cam gear is also more accurate provided whoever did your timing belt last did it correctly...
I'd use the crankshaft pulley... I believe (notice thte believe part this indicates no guarantee of accuracy) that the red line on the crank pulley is the TDC mark... however wait till someone confirms this before using that mark...
You look down at the pulley from the top of the engine bay as you're turning it. there is a tab with a > that you need to align the line on the crank pulley to.
Then adjust the valves on the #1 cylinder... then follow the rest of the normal procedure from there...
However... I highly recomend not doing this yourself... NO you're not going to ruin your car... but there's no point in doing it if you're not SURE you're doing it correctly.
Adjusting the valve lash is really to keep the car in perfect tune... nothing else. If you're not doing it properly you're probobly doing more to de-tune the car then to tune it...
Also it provides next to NO gains... you'd be better off waisting your time with something silly like indexing your spark plugs if you're looking to tinker with things.
Just use the timing marks on either the crank shaft pulley (the thing all the accessory belts go to) or the marks on the cam gear.
the screwdriver technique is not as accurate as using the marks on the crankshaft pully... The cam gear is also more accurate provided whoever did your timing belt last did it correctly...
I'd use the crankshaft pulley... I believe (notice thte believe part this indicates no guarantee of accuracy) that the red line on the crank pulley is the TDC mark... however wait till someone confirms this before using that mark...
You look down at the pulley from the top of the engine bay as you're turning it. there is a tab with a > that you need to align the line on the crank pulley to.
Then adjust the valves on the #1 cylinder... then follow the rest of the normal procedure from there...
However... I highly recomend not doing this yourself... NO you're not going to ruin your car... but there's no point in doing it if you're not SURE you're doing it correctly.
Adjusting the valve lash is really to keep the car in perfect tune... nothing else. If you're not doing it properly you're probobly doing more to de-tune the car then to tune it...
Also it provides next to NO gains... you'd be better off waisting your time with something silly like indexing your spark plugs if you're looking to tinker with things.
Oh...
And also FYI turning the crank is as mentioned above...
Put a 19mm (I'm pretty sure it's 19) socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn COUNTER clockwise... IE lefty loosey.
Make sure the car is in neutral...
As mentioned above it's easiest if you use a 1/2 drive socket with either a REALLY long extension or 2 18" extensions together.
Some people remove the front driver side wheel although I can usually get away with just turning the steering wheel all the way left. So the wheel is cocked out of the way.
And also FYI turning the crank is as mentioned above...
Put a 19mm (I'm pretty sure it's 19) socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn COUNTER clockwise... IE lefty loosey.
Make sure the car is in neutral...
As mentioned above it's easiest if you use a 1/2 drive socket with either a REALLY long extension or 2 18" extensions together.
Some people remove the front driver side wheel although I can usually get away with just turning the steering wheel all the way left. So the wheel is cocked out of the way.
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jdm169
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 24, 2003 05:36 PM







