I have a '95 GSR engine with the usual CAI, full 2.5" exhaust, and header.

I picked up some CTR cams and a VAFC.

I'm looking for a starting point on my VAFC.

I know many of you will say get it dyno tuned and I will once I get some other mods done.

I'm just looking for a starting point, Vtec RPM, +/- fueling, cam gears setting, etc.

Please don't say every setup is different because if that were true Honda would have to tune every car they made one at a time. A GSR with I/E/H and CTR cams is going to have pretty much the same tune no matter who you are.

 

Bump for some help, I have a local Type R that needs beaten.

 

TTT

 

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37 hits, 25 about pistons, 1 about Skunk mani, 1 about a CTR mani, 3 debates about CTR/GSR cam combos, 3 about valve springs, 1 about cam specs, 1 about IDing a cam, 1 BS thread, 1 debate on if CTRs are bigger than ITRs

No topics on tuning the CTRs on a GSR.

If this info is out there I can't seem to find it.
Thanks for any help you can provide.


BTW, my local dyno "tuners" have a habit of blowing up stuff on the dyno. The machine shops in the area are full of their repairs. They want to start a wall of their broken blocks and engine parts as a trophy. Seem like a trophy of shame to me so I'll be staying clear of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Please don't say every setup is different because if that were true Honda would have to tune every car they made one at a time. A GSR with I/E/H and CTR cams is going to have pretty much the same tune no matter who you are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

...and if that were true Hondata would be selling pre-mapped plug and play socketed ECU's for all of the popular bolt-op combo's like hotcakes. Every car is different. Hang around a dyno or talk to someone who does it for a living and you will see that they are in fact all different. My advice is to find a good tuner somewhere relatively close, spend an hour on the dyno with him and do it right. The butt dyno is dangerous and inaccurate.

 

Yeah, man. See a dyno.

You're near me, so I'll suggest Dynamic Motorsports.

They tuned my car, and it runs great.

The only thing they've ever had problems with is the forced induction crap. Stupid FI people...

But all motor tuning is easy. An hour there, and you'll be good to go. It costs like $120, but anyone who's gotten tuned can tell you there's a pretty big difference between tuned and untuned. My gas mileage and overall drivability went up greatly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

...and if that were true Hondata would be selling pre-mapped plug and play socketed ECU's for all of the popular bolt-op combo's like hotcakes. Every car is different. Hang around a dyno or talk to someone who does it for a living and you will see that they are in fact all different. My advice is to find a good tuner somewhere relatively close, spend an hour on the dyno with him and do it right. The butt dyno is dangerous and inaccurate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, well, pull your lips off the dyno guy's ***. This every car is different is a myth pass around by the guys who own the dyno.
Motorcycles already have premapped chips for popular modifications. It's from a company called Dynojet.
Please explain to me why you think one GSR engine with CTR cams is different than another.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drobinson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, man. See a dyno.

You're near me, so I'll suggest Dynamic Motorsports.

They tuned my car, and it runs great.

The only thing they've ever had problems with is the forced induction crap. Stupid FI people...

But all motor tuning is easy. An hour there, and you'll be good to go. It costs like $120, but anyone who's gotten tuned can tell you there's a pretty big difference between tuned and untuned. My gas mileage and overall drivability went up greatly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, my local dyno "tuners" have a habit of blowing up stuff on the dyno. The machine shops in the area are full of their repairs. They want to start a wall of their broken blocks and engine parts as a trophy. Seem like a trophy of shame to me so I'll be staying clear of them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that's the place I was talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, well, pull your lips off the dyno guy's ***. This every car is different is a myth pass around by the guys who own the dyno.
Motorcycles already have premapped chips for popular modifications. It's from a company called Dynojet.
Please explain to me why you think one GSR engine with CTR cams is different than another.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why in the world would you feel the need to insult someone who is trying to help you for free based on experience that cost me time and money. My experiences are based on my eyes.
Why would I suck up to my dyno tuner and what makes you so sure that I am ignorant enough to have a tuner that can't produce the potential I expect. For the record he is one of the best on the East Coast and has done thousands of cars from street to world challenge to 4 figure HP insanity.

A few ways any GSR engine will vary from yours on the dyno:

1.) where you live..altitude, general ambient air temp, etc.

2.) How old is your motor, how much carbon is on the valves affecting compression ratio, how much leakdown. Big difference on a ragged 94 vs 01 for example.

3.) The lions share of your present mods and what they are, which you have reduced as an aside called I/H/E will have everything in the world to do with how much, if, and where that cam makes you much power.

4.) Any two brand new factory motors out of the box will dyno differently. Fact.

Good luck with the attitude. Hope that works out for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A few ways any GSR engine will vary from yours on the dyno:

1.) where you live..altitude, general ambient air temp, etc.

2.) How old is your motor, how much carbon is on the valves affecting compression ratio, how much leakdown. Big difference on a ragged 94 vs 01 for example.

3.) The lions share of your present mods and what they are, which you have reduced as an aside called I/H/E will have everything in the world to do with how much, if, and where that cam makes you much power.

4.) Any two brand new factory motors out of the box will dyno differently. Fact.

Good luck with the attitude. Hope that works out for you.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You may be trying to "help" in your own way but you aren't.

Let me break down your points.
1. Air temp, altitude etc.
As you probably already know, you don't need to get your car re-tuned in the winter when it's cold out, and you also don't need re-tuned when you drive up a mountain. Our engines are fuel injected. The computer has sensors so it knows what the temp is and what the atmospheric pressure is. Also, like I said in the opening post, if these things were factors, Honda would have to tune every car they made.

2. If your car has poor leakdown reading you really shouldn't be hot rodding it up or running hard on the dyno either. My engine is a 95 with less than 55k on it. Semi valid point I'll give you that.

3. I/E/H, So for you, once you put a header and an intake on your car no longer ran? Hmmm, my car is still fine. That's because contrary to what dyno guys will tell you ECUs can compansate up to a point. That's why I'm here. I intend to change the camshafts. Camshafts dictate the personaliy of an engine. The Vtec points will be off and the fueling durring the 4400rpm where it used to turn on vs the new point 5400 or where ever will be too rich.

4 two motors will dyno differently. Yes they will, it's called manufacturing tolerances, but AGAIN, these two engines still received the same ECU from the factory.


Now let me make a point to you.

If Honda took a GSR engine, installed a Type R header, Type R free flowing exhuast, a free flowing intake and a set of CTR cams and started mass producing them they would all have the same tune. Wouldn't they?

I'm asking if anyone has a similar setup, what do they have their VAFC set to?

I don't expect it to be 100% correct for my car but it will surely be better than the 85% that it would be running at with my stock P72.

If I set it a +4IN/-2Ex, crossover at 4900, etc, that's probably a lot closer to where is should be than it is now.

I don't expect anyone to tune it over the net but I think someone else's GSR CTR combo settings are pretty close to right and I bet if you compared your VAFC settings to someone else's setting with the same parts they'd be damn close.

Please contribute something helpful or go away.

 

AMEN :X

 

i have a ctr intake cam only installed in my 95 gsr. i recently had the ecu socketed and its currently running a program that lets vtec kick in at about 5100 and opens the secondary butterfliies by 5200-ish. i'm getting so much better use of the the cam now and it pulls so much harder now according to my but dyno.

hope this helps.

 

it is good to dyno tune for best results. but with your minor mods you dont really need to, all the vafc is going to do for you is change your v-tec engagement point. since your basically putting stock cams in your stock ecu should tune itself fine. my .02