Brake Rotors
These rotors are what you need, comes with calipers and pads ... and fits under stock wheels.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1227381
A bargain at any price!
Modified by zygspeed at 6:52 PM 4/27/2005
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1227381
A bargain at any price!
Modified by zygspeed at 6:52 PM 4/27/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR198 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would be the best brake rotors for my 2000 ITR/ Either slotted or cross drilled or both </TD></TR></TABLE>
Neither slotted nor cross drilled ... blanks.
Neither slotted nor cross drilled ... blanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR198 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well because i bought the car about 2 weeks ago and it came with drilled and slotted but when i brake at like 80 or above it shakes like a bitch</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats because they are either warped because they are slotted and drilled, OR you have uneven pad compound deposits.
Listen to the masses, Get Autozone blanks, or Brembo blanks if you can find them cheap.
Drilled and Slotted are for looks, especially on the street.
Thats because they are either warped because they are slotted and drilled, OR you have uneven pad compound deposits.
Listen to the masses, Get Autozone blanks, or Brembo blanks if you can find them cheap.
Drilled and Slotted are for looks, especially on the street.
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Exactly, while you're there (Autozone) you may want to pick up a set of brake pads also if your current ones are worn unevenly etc.
Unless you Auto X or do HPDE you will be fine on the street with that setup
Unless you Auto X or do HPDE you will be fine on the street with that setup
Depends on what you intend to do with your caR. If you just drive your caR on the street then you'll be fine with OEM pads or stock replacement pads from Autozone Pepboys etc.
If you plan to Auto X or run HPDE's with your caR you may want to check out Cobalt Friction they have a line of performance pads.
BTW, you can't post again until tommorow, you are a trial user and have a 5 post a day limit. You'll be a trial user for 15 days after you registered on H-T.
Opie, who's in a real good mood this afternoon
If you plan to Auto X or run HPDE's with your caR you may want to check out Cobalt Friction they have a line of performance pads.
BTW, you can't post again until tommorow, you are a trial user and have a 5 post a day limit. You'll be a trial user for 15 days after you registered on H-T.
Opie, who's in a real good mood this afternoon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Opie, who's in a real good mood this afternoon
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No ****
[shakes head in disbelief]
Opie, who's in a real good mood this afternoon
</TD></TR></TABLE>No ****
[shakes head in disbelief]
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR198 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would be the best pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
Define the conditions and/or circumstances under which your idea of "best" would be judged?
Street, track, mixed, autocross, World Challenge racing, NASA HPDEs, SCCA, ... when dropped from a helicopter?
Define the conditions and/or circumstances under which your idea of "best" would be judged?
Street, track, mixed, autocross, World Challenge racing, NASA HPDEs, SCCA, ... when dropped from a helicopter?
From what I've learned, when using high performance brake pads that are made of exotic materials, the biproduct of these pads is high heat and larger quantities of gasses released. This is the only time that a cross-drilled and/or slotted rotor is really needed. You will find these pads on cars in CART, JGTC...BTCC...Other than that, they are simply for the bling look and not really needed.
Blanks is all you need bro
Blanks is all you need bro
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slotted/drilled = POS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, crossdrilled rotors are just asking to get cracked. I cracked mine in short order!
Yeah, crossdrilled rotors are just asking to get cracked. I cracked mine in short order!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 Autozone rotors cost me $45 last weekend. They are soo fresh 
Rotors are wear items, just get cheap blanks. No need for anything else
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rotors are wear items, just get cheap blanks. No need for anything else
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So this topic is about BOTH rotors and pads now. Okey dokey... 
In my experience, all one-piece rotors last about the same amount of time before eventually cracking/wearing. I've tried them all - solid-faced, slotted, and cross-drilled. And I haven't seen any greater longevity for one type over another. So I would say the same thing as everyone else - get the Autozone front rotors for $24.99 each ($50 a pair). Hey Opie - how come yours were only $45?
As for pads, I DON'T agree with the recommendation for pads at Autozone. A lot of auto parts stores sell cheap, "generic" brake pads simply based on shape and size, to fit a lot of different cars. These are pads that will stop the car, but won't stand up to the heat of hard driving the way high-performance pads do. And I'm not just talking about the racetrack, but also just the plain old enthusiastic driving that most of us do, at least some of the time. The stock ITR brake pads are a whole lot better than these generic brake pads, because they were made for high-performance driving. There are aftermarket pads (SOME aftermarket pads, not all) that are even better, with more bite and better resistance to problems due to heat. For this reason, I would not use most brake pads from the auto parts store. I would stick to either stock pads, or something that you know is at least as good. There are some very good aftermarket brake pads out there that are suitable for street use; I love the GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction, and other good street pads include Carbotech Bobcats, Axxis Ultimates, etc. For track use, you might even consider pads designed to do well on the track, like Cobalt Spec VR or several of the Carbotech track compounds. But I wouldn't put generic brake pads from the auto parts store (Autozone or elsewhere) on my ITR. Maybe on the family sedan or minivan, but not the ITR.
Oh, and if you're shopping for brake pads, give Andie and his peeps at Cobalt a call. They sell a lot of different brands, not just their own pads (which are excellent though) and can advise you on the best pads for your needs. Oh, and their prices are excellent (I think they give an h-t.com discount too) and so is their service. Cobalt
$.02

In my experience, all one-piece rotors last about the same amount of time before eventually cracking/wearing. I've tried them all - solid-faced, slotted, and cross-drilled. And I haven't seen any greater longevity for one type over another. So I would say the same thing as everyone else - get the Autozone front rotors for $24.99 each ($50 a pair). Hey Opie - how come yours were only $45?
As for pads, I DON'T agree with the recommendation for pads at Autozone. A lot of auto parts stores sell cheap, "generic" brake pads simply based on shape and size, to fit a lot of different cars. These are pads that will stop the car, but won't stand up to the heat of hard driving the way high-performance pads do. And I'm not just talking about the racetrack, but also just the plain old enthusiastic driving that most of us do, at least some of the time. The stock ITR brake pads are a whole lot better than these generic brake pads, because they were made for high-performance driving. There are aftermarket pads (SOME aftermarket pads, not all) that are even better, with more bite and better resistance to problems due to heat. For this reason, I would not use most brake pads from the auto parts store. I would stick to either stock pads, or something that you know is at least as good. There are some very good aftermarket brake pads out there that are suitable for street use; I love the GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction, and other good street pads include Carbotech Bobcats, Axxis Ultimates, etc. For track use, you might even consider pads designed to do well on the track, like Cobalt Spec VR or several of the Carbotech track compounds. But I wouldn't put generic brake pads from the auto parts store (Autozone or elsewhere) on my ITR. Maybe on the family sedan or minivan, but not the ITR.
Oh, and if you're shopping for brake pads, give Andie and his peeps at Cobalt a call. They sell a lot of different brands, not just their own pads (which are excellent though) and can advise you on the best pads for your needs. Oh, and their prices are excellent (I think they give an h-t.com discount too) and so is their service. Cobalt

$.02
20% discount to all Expo 5 participants on Cobalt Friction products.
Cobalt =
<< Also wondering how Opie got a $45 set of rotors when they go for $24.99 a pop. Possible discount involved??
Cobalt =
<< Also wondering how Opie got a $45 set of rotors when they go for $24.99 a pop. Possible discount involved??
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