That's it. I'm tired of using trash bags to cover my driver side window in the rain and when towing. I am looking for someone who has tips/tricks/insights/any ffing information on how to make a decent weatherproof driver side window filler thing.
I am open to any/all suggestions as long as it is durable and reasonably easy to put on/take off.

TIA

 

If you've kept the OEM tracks in the door, just slide the OEM glass window back in the tracks and fab a bracket or wooden prop to keep the window up... easy to take in and out, cheap, simple!

 

that door has been gutted all the way to make room for the NASCAR bars. So I need to fab something different. Besides, I would like to be able to install it from the outside if possible (when the car is on the trailer, I need to get out of the window since i can't open the door)

thanks for the suggestion though.

 

I just recently made a lexan window insert for that very purpose. I used a couple of Dzus fasterners at the top to hold it in place. The OEM glass comes in handy for making a template. I even went as far as building a framework behind it to get the curve back in it. Maybe overkill, but I like making stuff...

I decided to go with the lexan just to make it light and easy to put in place. Plus, I just know that if the OEM glass panel lays around long enough...eventually it will get broken at the most inopportune time.

I will try and snag a couple of pics of it later so you can see.

 

Jeff, I'm interested too. I have a piece of lexan in the garage waiting for my attention.

I spoke to a couple people about cutting it... the consensus seems to be to use a router?... off to buy another tool.

 

I used acrylic instead of lexan, only because my home depot was out of the big lexan pieces when I needed to make it.. I used a dremel to cut it to the basic shape and then used a dremel round sanding bit to shave it down to the proper size.. I left mine oversized a bit..

I drilled holes in the very top and zip tie it to the top of the door frame and then use racers tape to secure the bottom.. works fairly well..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emwavey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I spoke to a couple people about cutting it... the consensus seems to be to use a router?... off to buy another tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, a jigsaw with a course and sharp blade works very well for lexan. High speed tools, like routers, and even fine jigsaw blades tend to melt the material as they are cutting and it just makes a mess. Also, a nice small wood plane makes nice work of cleaning up the edges and putting a bevel on it. Go at it slow and you'll get great results every time.

Of course...like everything else...there is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

For people who still have weather stripping:

Drill two holes about 18 inches away from eachother along inside top of door

Slip on one threaded clip thingie for each hole with the thread on the window side of the door

Thread in two ~2" long thumbscrews

Cap thumbscrews with rubber vacuum hose cap condoms with a little RTV on the inside to keep them on

Insert factory window in its normal extended place

Tighten thumbscrews until it's tight enough to not move around

Done

 

OK...as promised, here is what I have.







I cut it out using the OEM glass as a template. Just get some posterboard and make a pattern from that...then transfer to the Lexan. I used some 1/8"x1/2" steel flat that is bent into shape <U>before</U> drilling and installing the rivets. It also required a strip at the bottom to keep it pushed out against the weather strip on the sill evenly.

The most critical part of the job is getting the Dzus fasteners located pefectly...otherwise nothing will fit right and lots of swearing will take place. I carefully welded the tabs onto the window frame then fitted the panel in place and marked for the button side of the fastener.

The fit is nice and it is surrounded by gaskets on all sides. It can be installed or removed from outside the car with the door closed. If need be, the car could be driven with it in place without fear of getting wet or the thing blowing out. This is just my way of doing it. I am sure there are other good ways of going about it. HTH

 

Very nicely done, Jeff.

K

 

Jeff, that is some quality work there.
I don't have a welder, but i may adapt some of your techiniques to my project.

thanks, it is appreciated.

 

I did something a little different.

I took the stock window and drilled two holes in the bottom to pass dowels thru. So I put the window in place, and pushed the sticks in that would hold the window up.

In theory you could make two holes close enough together that you could put a padlock in to prevent others from opening it.

And if you have a problem with gripping it just buy a handle or 2 from home depot and mount them to the glass!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RexRacer19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, a jigsaw with a course and sharp blade works very well for lexan. High speed tools, like routers, and even fine jigsaw blades tend to melt the material as they are cutting and it just makes a mess. Also, a nice small wood plane makes nice work of cleaning up the edges and putting a bevel on it. Go at it slow and you'll get great results every time.

Of course...like everything else...there is more than one way to skin a cat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info Jeff. You just saved me from buying yet another tool (the cost of gas for the racecar for a weekend or two nights in favorite roach motel)... I can't see myself using a router for much anyway. Dewalt Jigsaw with both fine and course blade is at my beckon call.

hmmm, the velcro idea seems interesting, though I work with velcro on a regular basis. Unless the surface is clean (duh), the glue on the back will not stick with any regularity... plus when you factor in temperature and moisture, the glue again is less likely to stick... however it's available, I'm curious, and I'll most likely try it anyway.

FYI Velcro's two sides are called hook (the rough side) and loop (the carpet/fabric side).

 

wow that look nice and seems logical for soem one running an open trailer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nicely done, Jeff.

K</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bump...
Pictures no workie


-Chris, looking for ideas, this thread helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bump...
Pictures no workie


-Chris, looking for ideas, this thread helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>


All better now...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RexRacer19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All better now... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the help!