1. Helms says to retorque to 14 lbs/ft, so is it o.k. to use 3/8" craftsman wrench? i do that for spark plugs and they're 13 lbs/ft, but these bolts seems much smaller i don't want to break anything
2. Helms say to retorque crank pulley bolt. Is that necessary?

 

If you dont loosen the crank pulley bolt, I dont see a need to tighten it again.

I never understood how to go about torquing the valve train bolts because you need to hold the valve in place with the flathead. I just guesstimate by torquing another bolt to 14ft/lbs to get an idea how much to tighten it :shrugs:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you dont loosen the crank pulley bolt, I dont see a need to tighten it again.

I never understood how to go about torquing the valve train bolts because you need to hold the valve in place with the flathead. I just guesstimate by torquing another bolt to 14ft/lbs to get an idea how much to tighten it :shrugs:</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought you only need to hold it in place until the locknut is tight enough, then you could recheck with torque wrench? does that sound right?

 

possibly...but for whatever reason even if my lock nut is snug on some valves, when I torque it down, the valve still moves and I need the flat head to hold it in place. only happens on some of the valves though. dunno why.

 

I just redid a valve adjustment yesterday. And for the first time torqued them.. I found that going fairly handtight with the box wrench while holding the screwdriver works... then go back with the TQ wrench. Then double check with feeler gauges. Then... move on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just redid a valve adjustment yesterday. And for the first time torqued them.. I found that going fairly handtight with the box wrench while holding the screwdriver works... then go back with the TQ wrench. Then double check with feeler gauges. Then... move on.</TD></TR></TABLE>


.....that's what I always do. I don't trust hand tight to keep the locking nutz from coming loose and letting the valve fly south.....

 

I have the same issue. After tightening them handtight with the snap-on tool and then torqueing them the valves were always too tight. I specifically remmebre intake valves on cyl 1 being like this for me. After trying a few times with the same result, eventually I just did them hand tight and moved on. Glad I'm not the only one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just redid a valve adjustment yesterday. And for the first time torqued them.. I found that going fairly handtight with the box wrench while holding the screwdriver works... then go back with the TQ wrench. Then double check with feeler gauges. Then... move on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what size torque wrench do you use? is 3/8" too big?

 

No torque wrench is too big if you have a socket that fits. Since they will all torque to the amount you set them.

 

yeah, but the smaller the torque wrench the better. the larger ones aren't very accurate at their lowest torque settings. a 3/8 ft lb'r or a 3/8 in lb'r would be best.