What rates are you all running on your Ground Control's with Koni Yellows or any other shock?

I'm about to order custom rate GC's with Koni yellows...just wondering what a perfect rate would be? I want my setup for the once and awhile autox/track...but mainly for the country/twisty roads.

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by U.Ben-Pwrd DC79’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...but mainly for the country/twisty roads.
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Please don't even mention anything close to mountain / street racing. Wrong forum. Now let's address your real question. Track is totally different than street. While some people run up to 1000 lbs rates on track, that will make feel even the smallest little peable. I would say to stick with 300 to 400 lbs if its a street car. Also, almost every front wheel drive setup will run a higher spring rate in the rear. I run 450 front and 700 rear on my "race track only" crx.

 

450 front and rear in the Accord, 450 front and 550 rear in the BMW. I could have gone stiffer in the Honda.

 

I had a 400f/500r street set up on my ITR and really liked it!

 

350/400 on my ITR.

very neutral, but consider lowering the front rate, or raising the rear rate to promote more rotation..


..then there's also that bigger rear bar deal

 

450F/550R on my lude with Konis. Also a larger rear bar for better rotation.

 

I'm not sure how it helps unless you look at the rates of people who have the same car as you. But even then, there's other factors that play in.
Whatever, for the record, I'm running 375/525

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by U.Ben-Pwrd DC79’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...but mainly for the country/twisty roads.
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300F/100R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by U.Ben-Pwrd DC79’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but mainly for the country/twisty roads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I recommend 500F/1500R with the biggest rear swaybar that you can find.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I recommend 500F/1500R with the biggest rear swaybar that you can find. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ohh, I like that better, assuming we're talking about 1 inch tow out front and rear.

 

dont forget to go with the 225s up front and donuts in the rear! 1500 might be pushing it... maybe 1475.... its just soft enough for the country roads yet not too stiff for the mountains.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luder94si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">450F/550R on my lude with Konis. Also a larger rear bar for better rotation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MMsportsRexSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe 1475.... its just soft enough for the country roads yet not too stiff for the mountains.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have actually found that 1480's are at the limit of my comfort, and the extra stiffness compared to the 1475's really helps out with rotation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by U.Ben-Pwrd DC79’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but mainly for the country/twisty roads. </TD></TR></TABLE>
call up ground control and get these rates:

Front - 250lb
Rear - 900lb


make sure you learn how to trail brake too.

 

I have found that Pirelli P7000 @ 45 psi in the REAR and Kumho Victoracers V700 @ 35 psi in the front provide a significant amount of rotation, without having to swap a sway bar in. So this tire combination along with the previously recommended 1475 lb rear springs, should provide enough rotation to wrap your car around any offending tree or road marker you may encounter on your sunday drive

Seriously though, the spring rates the GC will send you if you just order the kit will be sufficient for what you do. Please drive safe, prudent, and defensively on any public road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by U.Ben-Pwrd DC79’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but mainly for the country/twisty roads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah, twisty roads. When I was doing canyon runs in my Integra, I found that 1000 left, 600 right worked the best. Great in right hand turns, and kept any passengers happy with the soft right side rates.

 

yeah, those Carolina Canyons realy reward the right hand bias. I think the ideal setup is 200LF/100RF 1,000LR/600RR In combination with the above tire choice, you should have a nice flyer. Don't forget to disconnect the front brakes. you only need to rear to dorifto around the hairpins anyway.

 

I just ordered my Koni/Custom GC's last week. Thanks to a lot of advise on here I went with 400F/450R with the front springs one inch shorter to make them the same height as the rears so I can switch or only have to order two springs if I want different rates. And a rear ITR bar. But I autocross a lot and plan on doing some track time next year. Can't wait to see how these things handle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recommend 500F/1500R with the biggest rear swaybar that you can find. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Holy chit bat man..

1785 lb CRX full cage track car.
500f---525r 23mm rear sway bar set for max..

 

350 F and 400 R

and twisty roads **** the haters

 

350F/300R with a 22mm rear bar on my Integra. Understeers, but at least the commute is tolerable.

 

I ran 400/600 with a 26 mm rear bar on my ITR - good compromise between track and street

Now I'm using 780/900 and the same rear bar - still streetable - but you need to watch for bumps/potholes