Warp rotors or unbalanced wheels? It does not happen when I'm going less than 70mph. Anything above that and if I want to stop quickly, I will experince the shaking/shudder on the steering wheel. Need some input to put this problem behind.

Just a note, I recently swap on a different set of wheels and I'm suspecting this might be the cause of it. But why would the shaking only appear at hard braking under high speed and not low speed braking or regular cruising?


[Modified by TypeRP, 2:58 PM 1/31/2002]

 

Re-tighten your lug nuts, evenly and to ~85ft/lb

 

Are you getting the vibration with the stock rims or aftermarket rims?

Are the aftermarket rims hubcentric?

 

The lugs are tighten to aroudn 95 lbs all around.

 

hey randy, no need to go so high. best way to see if it's the wheels or not is to put the other wheels back and see what that does.

yshi - who still needs to go get chinese f00d!

 

Ahhh Yoshi, don't you know I'm a old man and can't lift anything over 20 lbs??
I thought about that but just too lazy to put the original wheels back.

Randy: Chinese food is not helping either, need some Mugen Equipped Viagra.


[Modified by TypeRP, 3:12 PM 1/31/2002]

 

I had the exact same problem. Mine would shake when I stopped from high speed but normal speed stops would be smooth. The problem was "hot spots" on my rotors. It seems that at some point my rotors were heated up enough to cause the hot spots but not to cause actual warping. Then when they would quickly heat up again they would shake. After a few miles they would cool down and work normally.

The solution: have your rotors turned or replace them.

Mine was still under warranty so the dealer turned them at no charge and I haven't had the problem since. HTH

 

maybe you warped your rotors. Thats what happened on my civic. Still haven't come around to fix that, its like abs is on sorta.

 

Since when did it go up that high? It's 80lb-ft torque, no? You could've warped it by tightening it too much!

 

I'm getting alot of input saying warp rotors. I guess I will take the car back to dealer and have them turned. Car still under warranty. I thought warranty doesn't cover pads/rotors/tires or battery.

 

Jimmy L is absolutely correct.

The difference between "hot spots" and warped rotors is that warped rotors will shudder even when they're cold. These rotors only shudder when they get very hot (like braking from high speeds).

If you plan to do any tracking of your car, keep in mind that turning the rotors will make them more susceptible to hot spots and/or warping in the future. If you're not going to track your car, turning them may be all you need.

 

your front rotors are warped, try to machine it, it should fix the problem.

 

Wraped rotor, have your shop turn it, it should be fine after that.

 

I have the same problem. my question to those who recommend turning the rotors is "how does turning the rotor, when cold, fix the problem?" it only is distorted after it gets hot. when cold, I assume the rotor is flat because it doesn't pulsate. I don't see how turning them will fix the hot spot problem. the conclusion I came to was to replace the rotors and now have 2 oem brembos on the way. that and flush and bleed the brake lines. will be using ATE Super Blue to replace the 4 yr old fluid.

 

That's correct. That's why replacing the rotors is the only sure fix.

 

I think I will replce my rotor instead of turning it. I might have toast it on the track the last time I went. Just to be on the safe side, I will replace them.

Funny thing is I didn't notice the shudder until recently which is about 5 months after I was on the track.