Alright... in my 93 LS-T Integra I had it boosted at 6psi for about 2 months and she ran beautiful. All of a sudden the turbo was leaking oil real bad and blowing it down the downpipe... The oil pressure was a lot higher than normal but I figured it was related to the "bad" turbo... So I'm thinking no biggy, just rebuild the turbo. I took the turbo down to 2 different shops and both of them told me the turbo seals and everything else were fine. I put everything back on and I notice that at idle my oil pressure is at 72-77 psi... when it used to be around 15-20 pounds... After cursing and throwing **** I finally put my DC headers back on, take off all my oil lines for the turbo and pretty much turn it back to N/A thinking my oil pressure will drop back to normal. I thought wrong... it's still idling around 75 psi and when i rev it the pressure shoots up to 95. I've already bought 2 new gauges and all 3 gauges I have now all read the same.

So as far as the turbo goes, I'm gonna assume it's fine and the reason the oil was blowing down the downpipe was because there was simply just too much oil pressure for the turbo to handle...? and it leaked through the seals without causing any damage..?? (I'm assuming)

My question is what would make my oil pressure so damn high all of a sudden? One day it's fine, the next morning it's crazy. I didn't do anything to anything before and after it happened. It's a stock B18A... I've been scratching my head for a few days now and havn't gotten too far. I know you guys gotta have some insite.

 

The pressure relief valve in the pump is stuck.Part #9. http://www.acuraparts247.com/s...ch=no

 

You gotta be shittin me... a $7 piece of **** is causing all of this?! I guess that's the only thing it could possible be... right?

 

i hope that's your problem, replace and come back and let us know what's up

 

Well, it does make sense... Do you think tapping the oil pan or block with a hammer could possibly knock it loose? I'm thinkin if I tap around the block and oil pan a lil bit maybe it will get unstuck and I'll have normal oil pressure. Then I'll know what to replace. Either way I will end up taking the damn oil pan off to get a closer look. I'm just tryin to pin point the problem without taking it apart yet... which probably won't work... lol

 

Nah. I had this happen once; probably a shaving stuck in there. Think of it like this: What would happen if the wastegate in the turbo stopped working?

 

True... I've never actually replaced one of these. I'm assuming its easy as dropping the oil pan... and it should be right there right? thats what it looks like in the diagram I'm looking at.

Bump for any other suggestions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a $7 piece of ****</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's only $7. If you've done all your own work before, why wouldn't you try it? I know if I had a good chance a shaving was lodged somewhere in my motor, I'd take it out by hand if I could rather than *hope* the filter gets it before it grinds up another lubed surface. You can also have **** just break and seize, and who knows, if that's not the prob, you might find it by accident while it's apart.

 

why not just replace the entire pump? its like $120....and its a brand new pump

 

I guess it would be worth it while I had it apart. Where have you seen them for $120? I've seen them for about $180. And to do the whole pump I would still only have to remove the oil pan right? no other BS?
Sorry it's just that I've never ripped this part of my car off before so I'm not exactly sure what I'm in for

 

got to take the timming cover off, a bunch of bolts, crank pulley...<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess it would be worth it while I had it apart. Where have you seen them for $120? I've seen them for about $180. And to do the whole pump I would still only have to remove the oil pan right? no other BS?
Sorry it's just that I've never ripped this part of my car off before so I'm not exactly sure what I'm in for</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Really? What if I were just to replace the pressure relief valve? Is that as much of a job as an oil pump?

 

Bump it up cuz she's been chillin on jack stands for 2 weeks

 

The pressure relief valve is located under the allen head cap , once you have the pan dropped you will see it , it is right next to the oil pick up tube , just take the allen cap off and there will be a plunger and a spring , just slid them out and see what gives and how they look , if there is alot of scuffs on it you will need to take like some fine sand paper and see if you can take them off and see if it slide freely in the bore, i hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess it would be worth it while I had it apart. Where have you seen them for $120? I've seen them for about $180. And to do the whole pump I would still only have to remove the oil pan right? no other BS?
Sorry it's just that I've never ripped this part of my car off before so I'm not exactly sure what I'm in for</TD></TR></TABLE>

Call len....I'm pretty sure mine was around $120-$130 max(from a local acura dealer).....and I didn't even get it from len (who will give you 20% off)

 

who's len? lol

 

Take it to a mechanic. If you have a regular guy he shouldn't charge to much and then you will back on the road without worring theat you put something in backwards.. Thats what I would do anyway.

 

Ok... I pulled it out

Does this look fucked up? There's 2 shiney marks that look to my like something was binding up... What do you guys think?

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/701078/3

 

Bump

 

yeah looks a bit roughed up replace it and see how the oil pressure is! if its still high replace the pump. i can get you a pump for like $80 whole sale price hehe

 

Would you believe I went to my local Honda dealer and they said they couldn't get the pressure relief valve because it was an Acura... I was like, dude, it's a Honda motor...??? Anyway I ended up going to my local Acura dealer and they ordered it for me and it should be in tomorrow.
Off hand does anyone know if there'e supposed to be an o-ring around the valve? Look at my pics and you'll see what I'm talking about

 

I put the new oil pressure relief valve in and the same **** is happening. I'm starting to get real pissed. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put the new oil pressure relief valve in and the same **** is happening. I'm starting to get real pissed. Anyone have any other ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you letting the car warm up? On my Z6, it'd be up around 70- 80 PSI cold, and once the oil came up to temp, it'd drop down to 10- 20. I was using Mobil1 5-30.

 

He's right at cold start up you are supposed to be at around 75 psi. Once your warming up it will start to drop, on full warm up you should be idleing at around 20 psi. If you want to see if your check valve is working, watch the oil pressure guage as your accelerating after its warmed up, it should rise to about 80 or so then the guage will flick down to around 68-70, then you know the valve is working, if its still way up there then get yourself a new pump.