What D series powerplants, US or JDM, mate up to the L3 cable tranny from the 88-91 Civic/CRX?

I'm deeply considering trying to get my hands on a CHEAP CRX HF or DX chassis and putting together a Grassroots $2006 challenge car from the spares I have laying around for my race car.
I have several trannys and a D15 motor, but I was going to see if there's more power out there to be had for cheap (ish).

Scott, who's $2006 challenge car would have a $1006 budget.

 

I believe the ZC mates up to the L3 tranny. Check the EF forum, there's actually some useful info there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the EF forum, there's actually some useful info there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No way.
I've been in that forum twice. Both times a sharp pain developed above my left eye and I had to bail out.

 

Well, the DOHC Jdm ZC will bolt onto the stock tranny as will the D16A out of the Civic/CRX Si... I even happen to have the used D16A out of my old CRX Si sitting in the garage

Christian


Modified by Xian at 3:42 PM 4/21/2005

 

not to rain on your parade here but finding a "cheap" crx is a challenge all its own. the other thing is i dont see how you can compete with a d series, you could pull a B18A1 (DA Integra) engine for cheap via a local junkyard and start mixing and matching used parts.

but to rightfully answer your questions the D15 and the tranny with match up, might take some matching the pressure plate and clutch but nothing that cant be done for cheap.

use this compression calculator to mix and match different d series parts to create the ultimate junkyard NA engine.
http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/dcalc.htm

oh and P29 pistons (D16A1 Integra) will be your friend, as they are cheap (used) and get your higher compression with a stock block and head.

best of luck to you

 

Another thing to consider is using an F-series motor from an Accord mated to the L3 tranny. You'd have to build an adapter plate, but it's already been done and I'll be i could get you the blue print. F-series motors are practically free, have very good torque and DO fit into that chassis with some work. The big reason nobody runs the H/F-engines in that chassis for road racing is the weight. But most of the weight is in the gear box and counter shaft assemblies. Throw that crap away, use the CRX gearbox and you're a long way toward a realistic weight balance. All at a very 2005 Challenge-friendly price...

If you are interested, i can get you more info on the swap and the adapter.

 

Finding the chassis is what will drive the whole project. It can be done, but its not easy. Everything else is cake.

I'd likely stick with a D series in the interests of simplicity.

 

Chicken.

 

all D series will "bolt up", but you will need to use the clutch disc designed for said tranny....as splines vary from different D series trans mainshafts

 

Yup, what he said... any d-series from 88-00 will bolt-up to the L3 cable trannies as long as you use the correct clutch.

Edit: about the only exception i can think of is the D16A1 DOHC from 86-89 Teg. But even that one will bolt up except the starter will have one bolt lined-up and then you have to deal with different engine mount location...


Modified by jsi at 5:45 PM 4/21/2005

 

A D15B VTEC which is a SOHC JDM VTEC motor bolts in, and matches with the tranny. If you get a HF it already has MPFI so all you wire is OBD1 and VTEC basically if you get DPFI car you have to swicth to MPFI. Also a D16Z6 is the same way. Both SOHC engines.

 

You know that as soon as you bolt a spare part up to the CRX, the correspoding part on your racecar will break, right?

 

One issue. The 88 trannys are diff. from the 89-91. 20 splines for 88 vs. 21 for 89-91 if I remember correctly.

I'd caution against a z6 unless you don't mind converting to obd1. The OBD0 distributors will not fit and you have major oil issues (I put one in mine and played with it for 3 weeks trying to get it to work before yanking it back out). You should be able to do the y8 with an a6 distributor/injectors. The cheapest thing is probably going to be a mini-me. Grab a dx, do some math & figure out the best stock pistons to throw in, then throw a y8 head on it and go from there. If you're good a body work, you should be able to pick up a suitable crx for $300-500. I'm sure it'll need a little work to score well in the concours part of the event but you should be able to come in well under budget with a decent placing car.

 

What about an A6 or a Z6 head on this D15B1 bottom end I have?
It's already .040 over, so that doesn't suck.

Is there that much difference between a D15 bottom end and a D16 bottom end in terms of performance?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know that as soon as you bolt a spare part up to the CRX, the correspoding part on your racecar will break, right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not gonna happen!
We've tried really hard to break my car and haven't managed to do it yet. Its carved from granite baby!!!
Hell, It can even handle Karl crashing into things and leaving the oil filler cap off... It just keeps on going (and winning)
Really... You should have seen it in impound after winning the VIR enduro. Hood bent, bumper hanging on it all crooked, crumpled fender, duct tape, and oil dripping out of every nook and cranny.
All this and a 1st place trophy on the windsheild . The first of two that weekend.

Its amazing. The thing needs to break soon or I'm going to start worrying that its possessed in some way.
We're thinking of changing its name from "Bob" to "Chucky"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about an A6 or a Z6 head on this D15B1 bottom end I have?
It's already .040 over, so that doesn't suck.

Is there that much difference between a D15 bottom end and a D16 bottom end in terms of performance?


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Try this nifty calculator i stumbled upon once from the dseries board... http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm

There isnt that much difference between D15 and D16 bottom ends other than displacement. I heard the D15 crank, rods and bearings maybe weaker but not sure. The D15 will have a slightly better r/s ratio.

Yeah a mini-me would be nice. Slap-on a y8 head and you could be close to 11:1 compression depending on gasket thickness.

Hell, my 170k mile d15b2 with just the MPFI swap and nothing else, stock i/e and all put down 100whp before we yanked it. It can even be yours (MPFI chit included, i'm running carbs now) for REALLY cheap. But you'd have to come to Montreal to get it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its amazing. The thing needs to break soon or I'm going to start worrying that its possessed in some way.
We're thinking of changing its name from "Bob" to "Chucky"</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. It's HERBIE!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about an A6 or a Z6 head on this D15B1 bottom end I have?
It's already .040 over, so that doesn't suck.

Is there that much difference between a D15 bottom end and a D16 bottom end in terms of performance?


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the mini-me seems to be extremely popular. I'd say stick to the proven a6 head as people seem to get just as much power from them as they do with the VTACH z6 head and you won't have to worry about dist. issues or converting to obd1. As for the bottom end, your guess is as good as mine. Seems most people swap out for the 1.6 so... I had planned to run a d15 bottom end with an a6 head on my 91 hatch project but alas, she's gonna have to go. I think someone else above said it but I was thinking the rod/stroke ratio would be better (haven't even taken the time to look at it yet) and the blocks are throw-away cheap.

 

pre 01....88-00 all d series mate up to each other whether cable or hydro tranny....even zc's

 

I hope your planning on finding a free junkyard turbo

the d series will get get it's *** kicked by your fellow competitors.

Even if you go full on nuts with your d16 your likely to see 160 ish hp even if you pick up the webers in the classifieds - and most likely this motor alone will put you way over budget

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the d series will get get it's *** kicked by your fellow competitors.

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I'm guessing you've never seen a CSP CRX with 100 whp beat a C Prepared Trans Am with 600whp at an autocross...
I have. More than once.

Scott, who pretty much doesn't care about the drag racing part of the event and is doing it for fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm guessing you've never seen a CSP CRX with 100 whp beat a C Prepared Trans Am with 600whp at an autocross...
I have. More than once.

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I'll second that...I have several FTDs to my credit in the old rex...and I am no Mario Andretti.

I talked with someone once that simply took a DX motor (88-91) and simply put the intake from the Si and converted the wiring and computer and it ran like a gem. I think that you are on track by using the bottom end you have already...good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the d series will get get it's *** kicked by your fellow competitors.
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man, the number I've times I've been told this.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the d series will get get it's *** kicked by your fellow competitors.
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As the $2005 proved, going up against a well-prepped CRX in autocross will often get you one of these:




Catch22, of course the 88 HF chassis will be lightest, and a Y8 minime will probably be the cheapest power (since you already have the tranny for a D-series)

HOWEVER

For GRM $2006, you better do something special for the concourse against all the other CRXs, and find some slicks for the drag run.

 

Well, thanks to Christian I now have a complete running (supposedly) D16A6 for the best price one can get... FREE.
I already have a perfectly good 5 speed tranny.

The goal now is to locate a straight HF chassis (preferably 88 or 89) in which to drop it. Minor bodywork is no issue as me and bondo have been buddies for years.

The goals are pretty simple. To be good in the autocross and concours and just survive the drag with something repectable.
Then to be CSP legal going forward.

It won't be easy, but if it was easy I probably wouldn't care about doing it.

Scott, putting out an APB for a 88-91 CRX HF or Si chassis for less than $500 in the Southeast (if its Black you win a prize).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As the $2005 proved, going up against a well-prepped CRX in autocross will often get you one of these:


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Stormy's posts tend to indicate that he's spent ALOT more time reading magazines and watching Beast Mothering videos than he has actually doing any sort of competition.

A well prepped and well driven CRX (any of them) is just plain hard to beat on an autocross course. Period.